How important is truing threads on a rem 700 action?

[Mram10us]

Receiver threads can also be out of square and not concentric with the bore centerline. After setting up to re cut bad threads single point. I have seen the first pass yield interesting results, the threads cut on one side when starting and move to the other side as i went farther in. They also normally cut more on one side than the other
side using the bolt bore as the center to align everything including the action face and the recoil lug abutments.

I use the bolt bore to true everything off of because it is a good starting point and when finished everything is true and square to the bolt and the bore, including the threads.

J E CUSTOM



Yes, I use the practice.
But no, I haven't seen a rifle go from a 1/4 moa to a 1/10th moa by making that one change. Mainly because I start with correcting the threads and true everything else in the process of blueprinting an action. I will say this Though, All of my 1/10th MOA rifles/pistols have had this level of truing done to them so it must help as one of the components of blueprinting.

There is no one magic thing that assures accuracy. There are many things that make accuracy possible and thread trueness is just one of them.

J E CUSTOM

Thank you. What tool is your preferred for chasing and correcting the threads? Do you thread toward or away from the lug abatements?

 

[J E Custom]

Thank you. What tool is your preferred for chasing and correcting the threads? Do you thread toward or away from the lug abatements?

I believe that the single point method is the only way to get true threads. A tool that cuts the thread in one pass will try to find its own center and you lose the reason for truing in the first place.

The lug abutments are normally far enough away from the threads that ether direction can be used depending on your set up.

J E CUSTOM

 

[bigngreen]

I think threads importance depends on your thread fit, if you cut threads that you can feel drag the whole way till it shoulders, then you'd better have perfect threads, if you let them have some "breathing" room but they are clean then they are way down on the list of things. I have seen a couple rifles respond to just doing the threads but its hard to tell if it's actually the threads or just cleaning things up and resetting the barrel but it was only noticeable at 1000 yards on the cold bore shot.
I've seen amazing, record setting at long range level threads completely messed up by someone else and they hammer so to me if the threads do their job that's what's needed most from them.
Threading with a slight taper is a method that has been tried a lot, different threads types, in the end they are to hold the barrel against the face of an action nothing more.
I also look at the set up, if you hold an action by the front ring and the rear bridge with jack screws your don't out of the gate, your twisting the action, if you use a bushing and rod to find the action center line your going to find it does not repeat well because your stacking tolerances again. Just how you hold your action and determine center line, there are few I believe who actually are truing threads to the actual center of it all as good as they think they are doing.

 

[B23]

For you guys, like JE and bigngreen, do you think there are advantages/disadvantages pros/cons to single point truing VS using a tap? Hopefully I stated that correctly and you know what I mean.

 

[bigngreen]

I've used both methods and IMO the mandrel does fix the threads to a degree BUT in order for the mandrel to turn on the bushings there has to be tolerance stacking so it's going to follow to a degree. Single point with correct work holding and set up tooling is the best and I don't think anyone would argue that, I kinda harp on the work holding and set up though because there are some methods and tools out there that really you might as well us the mandrel tap because it's probably better than the set up being used.

 

[sp6x6]

This goes along with this idea here.But im not a smith and not sure if I explain right.But it seems maybe on this site somebody that is manufacturing a differnt type barrel connection,in regards to the ''THREADS '' being off.Might have been foriegn,trying to recall.There way to skin a cat?

 

[J E Custom]

This goes along with this idea here.But im not a smith and not sure if I explain right.But it seems maybe on this site somebody that is manufacturing a differnt type barrel connection,in regards to the ''THREADS '' being off.Might have been foriegn,trying to recall.There way to skin a cat?

It is the quality of the threads that Is in question. All commercial actions have a standard thread size and pitch depending on the rifle manufacture. Some of these threads are of poor quality from one rifle to another.
Sometimes a smith has to true the threads on an action in order to get a precision fit and alignment.

J E CUSTOM

 

[sp6x6]

Thanks JE.The rifle I was thinking of is a modular,Hardy Hybrid.Which I know nothing about. I obviously dont see threads going anytime soon.A swicth barrel is appealing for many reasons.Thread carry on.

 

[J E Custom]

I've used both methods and IMO the mandrel does fix the threads to a degree BUT in order for the mandrel to turn on the bushings there has to be tolerance stacking so it's going to follow to a degree. Single point with correct work holding and set up tooling is the best and I don't think anyone would argue that, I kinda harp on the work holding and set up though because there are some methods and tools out there that really you might as well us the mandrel tap because it's probably better than the set up being used.

I totally agree.
The setup is everything, If it is not good, the outcome will also not be good. If a person doesn't have the proper tools and doesn't set the action up correctly it could be a wast of time.

As the saying goes, The Devil is in the Details.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Mram10us]

I believe that the single point method is the only way to get true threads. A tool that cuts the thread in one pass will try to find its own center and you lose the reason for truing in the first place.

The lug abutments are normally far enough away from the threads that ether direction can be used depending on your set up.

J E CUSTOM

I understand the procedure, I meant what tool brand and size. Ex: iscar, shars, etc

 

[bigngreen]

This goes along with this idea here.But im not a smith and not sure if I explain right.But it seems maybe on this site somebody that is manufacturing a differnt type barrel connection,in regards to the ''THREADS '' being off.Might have been foriegn,trying to recall.There way to skin a cat?

Lot of different concepts have been tried, pressed, one piece action barrel, and I think the more common that has worked is the DTA barrel extension and cross bolts which is interesting IMO.

 

[Mram10us]

I think threads importance depends on your thread fit, if you cut threads that you can feel drag the whole way till it shoulders, then you'd better have perfect threads, if you let them have some "breathing" room but they are clean then they are way down on the list of things. I have seen a couple rifles respond to just doing the threads but its hard to tell if it's actually the threads or just cleaning things up and resetting the barrel but it was only noticeable at 1000 yards on the cold bore shot.
I've seen amazing, record setting at long range level threads completely messed up by someone else and they hammer so to me if the threads do their job that's what's needed most from them.
Threading with a slight taper is a method that has been tried a lot, different threads types, in the end they are to hold the barrel against the face of an action nothing more.
I also look at the set up, if you hold an action by the front ring and the rear bridge with jack screws your don't out of the gate, your twisting the action, if you use a bushing and rod to find the action center line your going to find it does not repeat well because your stacking tolerances again. Just how you hold your action and determine center line, there are few I believe who actually are truing threads to the actual center of it all as good as they think they are doing.

I made a aluminum jig that fits the bolt raceway. Great for receiver face, but useless for the lug abatements and threads. I have the materials for one of these

Or maybe use my 4 jaw for the threads?? as long as I can get the raceway centered.....

 

[bigngreen]

Don't build a truing jig that holds the rear and the front of the action cause you'll tweak it sooooo easy and you can't really even feel it or tell, just hold the front of the receiver, then when your dialed it's nuts on because the rear of the action just follows and stays in it's natural position. Also get quality mandrels for set up, they cost but solid mandrels are the only way to fly if your serious, IMO if you don't use a hardened, ground mandrel your not going to be dead on unless something cancels out, your not going to turn something on your lathe that is the same quality that a company like JGS has to work at hitting spec with a high end grinder and a real machinist running it.

 

[Mram10us]

Don't build a truing jig that holds the rear and the front of the action cause you'll tweak it sooooo easy and you can't really even feel it or tell, just hold the front of the receiver, then when your dialed it's nuts on because the rear of the action just follows and stays in it's natural position. Also get quality mandrels for set up, they cost but solid mandrels are the only way to fly if your serious, IMO if you don't use a hardened, ground mandrel your not going to be dead on unless something cancels out, your not going to turn something on your lathe that is the same quality that a company like JGS has to work at hitting spec with a high end grinder and a real machinist running it.

I definitely can't make things to JGS tolerances Raises the question, do we want something harder than the raceways put in there? Would aluminum or brass work?