Truing a Rem 700 Dial in Check.

[bigngreen]

So took these very poor quality videos one day just to give guys a little idea of what quality tooling is capable of, fortunately the tooling is far better than my video skills but its a take what you get kinda deal.

First video is a Rem 700 in my action truing jig and initial dial in with a precision ground mandrel that is one of a set that are bolt size so no bushings, mandrel is turned, stress relieved, hardened and ground (think I have the order right) and are spec'ed at .0002 for straightness and size, not cheap!! Using a Mit .0001 indicator.

Second video is after I removed the mandrel and then reinstalled it with no marks to get it back in the same spot just put it back in at random then rechecked it.

Third video is after removing and cutting the lug abutments and action face back .004 then reinstalling at random the mandrel and rechecking the dial in.

 

[tobnpr]

Not sure what point you're making?
I've always used collets for receiver mandrels (with bushings). Collets have always been king when it comes to accuracy.

Precision ground mandrels in a quality collet setup will always have near zero TIR and repeatability.
Why dial in a 4-jaw if the workpiece will fit in a collet?

 

[25WSM]

Tobnpr you don't understand what he is doing. You can't use a collet to do this work. The mandrel is in the race way and he is indicating to it to center the receiver race way. The action jig is held in the lathe with the Chuck . The jig holds the receiver. The receiver holds the mandrel. The mandrel is free to move forewards and backwards. This is how it's done.
Shep

 

[Wedgy]

Thanks, more video of the process if you get a chance.

 

[Edd]

Are you holding the action only on the front end?

 

[25WSM]

Normally 4 bolts in front and 4 in back.
Shep

 

[bigngreen]

Are you holding the action only on the front end?

Yes, I made the chuck so as to only hold the front ring in a thick split collet with swivel feet adjusting screws so there is no stress put into the action because of holding or adjusting.

The chuck is bolted to a D1-4 backplate and then did all the turning mounted on the lathe so I can actually dial in an action and remove the entire chuck then reinstall and have the same results.

 

[Edd]

If your metal cutting skills are as good as your setup skills, I don't see how anyones finished product could be any better than yours.

 

[bigngreen]

There is always room to improve tooling and skills!!
The chuck came out of the need to match the precision of the madrels, the mandrels came out of putting the typical action set up bushings and rod you buy on a granite plate with Alex Wheeler who is pushing accuracy in everything he works on and found the need for a solid precision mandrel that would put us in the actual center of the bolt race way.

 

[25WSM]

If your only holding it in the front how are you getting the back of the action in alignment.

 

[bigngreen]

This should help clear it up, the back of the action just stays stress free since I'm not using it for adjustment.

 

[25WSM]

So your still using 8 points of contact.?
Shep

 

[bigngreen]

Totally, they are just all on the front ring.

 

[wdrjr]

I love this forum.