Torque wrench reccomendations

[Varmint Hunter]

I've been using the Fat Wrench for a while now. It's much more accurate than my previous method of using one grunt or two grunts.

 

[highfinblue]

You're on the right path. My shooting completely changed when I started torquing all the screws and bolts to factory specs. I just have the Wheeler, and a cheap Tekton or something like that, it goes up to like 120 inch pounds. I'm certain there are better tools out there, but no more than I use them, they fit my need.

 

[hpmag308]

Have a Wiha adjustment up to 50in. Been great for years. I bought a kit somewhere and it had all sorts of different bits. Forget where I bought it. Hell to get old

 

[Citified]

I also use a wheeler Fat wrench but am very care to return the setting to zero after use. Stays in calibration that way. As a double check from time to time I use a beam type inch-lb wrench to check it.

 

[FireFlyFishing]

 

[171farm]

@Taylorbok @TexSavage @KTP do you all have the ratcheting or non-ratcheting tway? If ratcheting, do you have the regular or locking hex drive?

 

[willtim]

Be sure to store it "unloaded".

 

[KTP]

I have the "RIFLE AND OPTICS TOOLKIT WITH ALL-IN-ONE TORQUE DRIVER"
It would be considered non ratcheting. I also picked up a 15# and 25# torque limiter

 

[ntsqd]

Be sure to store it "unloaded".

While I get the ease of use of clickers and own a couple myself, I prefer beam type wrenches because they are always "unloaded" and it is easy to tell when they've had a zero shift. It is also easy to correct any zero shift back to actual zero.

 

[J-L]

Tekton is for stuff over 20 in pd

My vortex one for under 20 in pd , i like the vortex with the lifetime warranty. They Already replaced one.

 

[dfanonymous]

While I get the ease of use of clickers and own a couple myself, I prefer beam type wrenches because they are always "unloaded" and it is easy to tell when they've had a zero shift. It is also easy to correct any zero shift back to actual zero.

I think no one here is talking about the same thing.
I'm not aware of a split beams that goes to inch lbs.

That said, for regular fasteners, I would agree with you. A flex head split beam is diverse. I have CDI non snap on myself.

For this post though, proto, CDI, and a bunch of others make a driver clicker. They basically look like the wheeler but actually are accurate and consistent.

I only mentioned my icon micrometer clicker because it goes down to 40, which is good for action screws.

 

[ntsqd]

A cheap one, 0-80 in-lbs, or am I not understanding what you're saying?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BFGN53Y?tag=lrhmag19-20

 

[dfanonymous]

A cheap one, 0-80 in-lbs, or am I not understanding what you're saying?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BFGN53Y?tag=lrhmag19-20

No, it was me that didn't understand. I see what you meant by beam. I just assumed you meant split beam, since I'm not aware of a major brand that still makes a beam styled.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSFIM?tag=lrhmag19-20

 

[DakotaRingo]

One thing not mentioned in torquing is use of locktite or similar "lubricate" as in mounting scope with blue, it changes your torque requirement setting. Many rifle scope companies wont back warranty when the tube, for instance, has obvious over torqued ring marks on it. Therefore, get one that has a digital readout or micrometer style dial that you can be sure of 16 inch lbs vice 18. I prefer the click break verses sponge release type. Wheeler fat wrench is sloppy when dialing IMHO - and has the spongy release. Fat wrench has a fat red line. Do you use the top bottom or middle. Ballpark? Used fat wrench as a commonly available example, not condemning or recommending it. I use my fat wrench when plus or minus 3 in-lbs are good enough.