• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Threading a Tikka t3x Superlight

Magna Port... non obtrusive,liter,better looking...
Please take no offense. As much as I hate radial brakes (they are the least effective muzzle brakes I have ever used/had), I recommend them before Magna-porting. Magna-porting prevents the OP from changing/trying other muzzle brakes or if he decides to go the suppressor route.
 
Before reading some of the other responses I would have said a 1/2" thread on the end of a 300WM would be stetchy, but it appears some have done it already. However I have this discussion before with someone at X-Caliber barrels and they advised against doing something like this. They thought there would be too little metal thickness there at the end and could be dangerous. But if Tiny Tim has it on a 300RUM I think that tells you everything you need to know. Hope you enjoy LRH forum.
 
This is a Winchester extreme weather in 30-06 done by Silencer Central, 1/2x28. I think mine was .660 at the muzzle. Winchester did offer a factory threaded model but I couldn't find one. I found a slightly used one and had it threaded.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1181.png
    IMG_1181.png
    6.1 MB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1180.png
    IMG_1180.png
    4.5 MB · Views: 20
Dont rule out the possibility of using 9/16-24 threads. Several muzzle devices are available in that configuration.
Might be a possibility, but might not leave enough shoulder on the barrel. With these larger caliber, small diameter barrels, it's a balancing act between enough meat for the threads and shoulder to mate against.
 
I have threaded literally hundreds of barrels over the years and my policy was never thread a 30 cal 1/2-28. One of our prominent barrel makers would not make stainless steel barrels in the smallest profiles because stainless when in extreme cold might not handle the pressure. I believe your barrel is stainless? I did do a few at 9/16" but that limits your mb options. The root of the 1/2-28 thread is approx .455 -.308 = .147. Divide that by two and you have .073" of steel. That is pretty thin IMO. Obviously there are barrels out there as reported in this thread. My guess is the manufacturers of the rifles/barrels generally would not support it.
 
I have threaded literally hundreds of barrels over the years and my policy was never thread a 30 cal 1/2-28. One of our prominent barrel makers would not make stainless steel barrels in the smallest profiles because stainless when in extreme cold might not handle the pressure. I believe your barrel is stainless? I did do a few at 9/16" but that limits your mb options. The root of the 1/2-28 thread is approx .455 -.308 = .147. Divide that by two and you have .073" of steel. That is pretty thin IMO. Obviously there are barrels out there as reported in this thread. My guess is the manufacturers of the rifles/barrels generally would not support it.
I would listen to this wise and obvious, experience guy right here.
 
The muzzle break I'm looking at is self timing so I could put it on myself. Do you think it's best to order the muzzle break first and take it in with the gun or have my gunsmith thread it first then find a muzzle break?
I would have the gunsmith measure the muzzle and determine what threads he is able to cut for your barrel. Then buy the appropriate muzzle brake…
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum.

I'm not sure the brake you refer to is available in 1/2x28, but as others have advised, an adapter can be made. My Remington 700 sps in 300RUM has a typical sporter barrel with a direct thread 1/2x28 brake. Don't know the brand as I purchased the rifle used, but it works fine.

Find a local smith and talk to him. It'll benefit you in the long run.
I had a Rem. 700 SPS in 300 Rum. I got it threaded 9/16x24. It had enough diameter to do. I put APA Micro Bastards on 5 rifles. All same size. They work well. If I had to thread my Tikka T3 Lite I know it'd have to be 1/2x28. My Tikka T3x came threaded 5/8x24 with a radial brake . I put a UM Titanium brake on it.

ADshooter,
Welcome to the forum from N/W Wyoming.
 
Magna Port... non obtrusive,liter,better looking...
I had a magna break put on my 300 RUM factory barrel. First brake I ever bought. Was 1999 I believe. They told me it would cut recoil by 40%. I did that at least. Felt like a 308 at most. Brake was same diameter of barrel. Radial. Clean looking. 1/2x28. Never had a problem with it.
 
One more thing to consider!
Tikkas are notorious for being difficult to remove from the action!!
1)Many gunsmiths have to cut a relief grove at the action to get the barrel to unscrew from the action. If that is the case then it will have to be re-chambered. (So you will loose about an inch there in length.
2) As mentioned by many here muzzle outside and inside diameters will determine where it is safe to thread. This may require shortening the muzzle end as well.
3) Realistically if you are only going to take this out once a year do a couple of test shots to confirm zero then go hunt with it just leave it as is. See#4!!!!
4) Most likely if you are like most of us that just start out with little knowledge find out how much we Snjoy shooting and purchase another gun! For target or hunting so (money saved on #3 ) would go towards another rifle!
As most say Find a local gunsmith call them up and get answers First! Expert Advice is Free!
 
The muzzle break I'm looking at is self timing so I could put it on myself. Do you think it's best to order the muzzle break first and take it in with the gun or have my gunsmith thread it first then find a muzzle break?
You really NEED to, do some Research on Muzzle Brakes as NOT All, are created Equal,.. Some have, Horriffic Muzzle "Blast" ( Concussion ) AT the Shooter ! Some Divert the Blast to the Sides, much better by, the Angle of,.. the Ports ! ( Especially, the First Port ! )
I'd gladly lose, a Tiny Bit of Performance ( 5 to 10 % or so,.. more Recoil ) to,.. DIVERT the Blast, a Bit, sideways ! ( Especially on, a HUNTING Rifle )
The PVA Back Country Brake and the Newer Models of, the Jet Blast Brakes ARE about as, "User Friendly" as, a Brake can Be !
 
Last edited:
Top