in a lot of trouble shooting modify the least expensive part you can do this yourself wet and dry paper /oil and 20 minutesFL dies are hardened. It would be easier to mill down the shell holder. Just sayin'.
in a lot of trouble shooting modify the least expensive part you can do this yourself wet and dry paper /oil and 20 minutesFL dies are hardened. It would be easier to mill down the shell holder. Just sayin'.
All good advice. Two of the rifles im loading for are mod 700's and a tikka t3. Thanks guysI wouldnt do anything to the shellholder or die untill you find out if your bumping the shoulders back at all on fired cases.
Always alter the cheapest part first.FL dies are hardened. It would be easier to mill down the shell holder. Just sayin'.
My first lathe for some reason would sometimes produce chatter. It is difficult to eliminate the chatter once it starts. Something to do with harmonics and vibration. I definitely learned the hard way and sold my lathe and bought a bigger much heavier machine. Not a guarantee for absence of chatter but it does happen. Two indicators: 1. High pitched squealing during reaming and 2. Longitudinal visible lines on brass after firing in chattered chamber. Does not visibly show in chamber itself.Brass will not rechamber unless full length sized. If chatter starts there are some methods to stop it. Dan Lilja wrote somewhere how to stop it if it does start.Makes a ton of sense to me. Hard to believe a rifle could leave a facility like that. Thanks for the info.
It would be helpful if you could determine if the case shoulders are being pushed back a few thousandths. When a case is initially pushed into a FL die it often causes the shoulders to move FOWARD until the die actually sets them back. Occasionally you hear about a situation where the die just falls short of pushing the shoulder back even when the die is set to firmly contact the shell holder when the ram is in its highest position.
If you determine this to be the case then you can just have the shell holder milled or ground down a few thousandths so that the die can be adjusted a bit lower. I believe that Redding has a set of shell holders which may allow you to do the same thing. Someone else can chime in on that.
I have a reloading book/books. This is not the first caliber I've loaded for. This is however the first that I've had issues with swelling. I resent your attitude , it is in my opinion not in keeping with professionalism decorum which this site is known for.Will the cases go in the chamber without resizing? Without measuring all the different areas of the case you have no data to see where the die is working or not working. Read your reloading manual so you understand where you need to measure. There is so much information about what you need to see in a fired case, a new case, a resized case etc you would have a much better understanding of what you are doing. In reading this post you do not have a basic understanding of what you are doing and that is dangerous. You are setting off an explosion in which your face is in direct alignment with reaction forces involved. You may want to learn alot more before you continue and a reloading manual is the first place you should have turned not the frigging internet.
How much web expansion do you have? What is the clearance of your loaded neck with the brass you are using? How much is the case expanding at the shoulder and is it within the recommended length?I have a reloading book/books. This is not the first caliber I've loaded for. This is however the first that I've had issues with swelling. I resent your attitude , it is in my opinion not in keeping with professionalism decorum which this site is known for.