Will definitely do this!! ThanksAnneal B4 Sizing to limit Spring back of the brass and have better consistently with neck tension.
M.
Will definitely do this!! ThanksAnneal B4 Sizing to limit Spring back of the brass and have better consistently with neck tension.
M.
I wipe mine off with a a cloth and rubbing alcohol but you are correct, its just gibberish, powder is mass produced, dumped into 1# and 8# containers, shipped to the retailer, shipped to us, dumped into the brass and then carried all over the place hunting, 15 minutes in a tumbler aint gonna hurt a thing, for someone to even suggest that just make's me shake my headButterBean:
You are probably right. Probably just another wives tale that isn't true. I just wipe mine off with a cloth.
Steve
If your process works for you, excellent! I am a bit concerned that your steps state that you tumble after loading. My best hunting bud used to do this and had 1 round (30.06) detonate destroying the tumbler, partially destroying the bench, 1 of the bullets went through the wall-ending up in the living room wall. He was not in the garage at the time, thankfully for him. His wife went berserk! Please consider.Hey guys just wanted to see what your steps are in reloading process?
I started out reloading about 6-7 years ago with just the basics a rock chucker, balance beam basic reloading kit!!!
I got into reloading to save money. Haha I don't think that worked out. I have since bought a area 419 press, giraud case trimmer, and powder dispenser digital calipers and micrometer and eventually want to get into annealing.
I reload for .270 win/ 338 lapua/ 300 rum/ 300 win mag/ 6.5 creedmoor. I honestly don't shoot past 1000 yards but would like to start stretching out the lapua.
Honestly really want a amp annealer but don't think that's in the budget so leaning towards a bench source annealer. What's your thoughts on the bench source?
1. Deprime all brass on rock chucker
2. Tumble all brass (clean)
3. Lube and size brass
4. Anneal all brass (after I purchase)
5. Trim all brass
6. Wet tumble brass and dry
6. Prime brass
7. Weigh Powder
8. Seat bullets
9. Tumble ammo for 10/15 minutes to get lube off
Any advice appreciated!!! Thanks
Bill it's probably another case of an over abundance of caution, but one should at least be aware that ammonia is corrosive to brass, and can have a metallurgical effect.Pretty much same as all above....
except......
Never tumble loaded rounds.
clean brass with windex after sized.
I also started with a flame annealer, and built an induction annealer, which I love. My goal wasn't strictly cost savings (although I agree AMP is overpriced) it was to reduce individual handling of brass via automation.As an option , there is a "DIY induction annealer" video on utube....it a handheld unit with a timer that goes to 1/10 of a second timing. It is semi labor intensive, but also not $1000.00 +. I had a flame annealer, and it worked decent, but this induction unit is amazing!!! And at around $300.00 with a custom cooling system for the coil, it was well within my budget. And the results are impressive. The anneal line is perfect on every case, and it "seems" to have improved the seating consistency of my rounds. I did alot of research on annealing before I built it, and honestly, there is ALOT more to it than just hitting the 750° temp and calling it good. But, as stated, I used flame annealing for a while, and it is 100% over no annealing.
If your process works for you, excellent! I am a bit concerned that your steps state that you tumble after loading. My best hunting bud used to do this and had 1 round (30.06) detonate destroying the tumbler, partially destroying the bench, 1 of the bullets went through the wall-ending up in the living room wall. He was not in the garage at the time, thankfully for him. His wife went berserk!
That's what I try to do is bump the shoulder back .002. I have never used wd-40I set up a little differently. New cases out of the box. I setup and cut the case all to the same length to be consistence, which bevels inside and outside, at the same time. Cut the necks for thickness. Deburr the flash hole. Check the primer pocket for consistencies. volume weight the cases. Check I.D. of neck. Adjust if needed for tension. First bullets down the tube are reduced loads and bullets into lands to fireform the cases using 2nd bullets, primers I don't like, and powder I really load with except for forming the case. When annealing I clean the cases, and then anneal. Determine if I need to clean again. Set up an FL size my cases. Bumping the shoulder .001 to .002.
Fired cases Not from the rifle that's going to be used. it's a little different in set. De-prime, clean, anneal, FL sizing, Mandrel to push out necks to prep for trimming to length, and cut necks for thickness, then the other steps. I probable left out something. I don't wipe my case down with WD-40. WD-40 can work it's way into the primer pocket. Guess what?
Hey guys just wanted to see what your steps are in reloading process?
I started out reloading about 6-7 years ago with just the basics a rock chucker, balance beam basic reloading kit!!!
I got into reloading to save money. Haha I don't think that worked out. I have since bought a area 419 press, giraud case trimmer, and powder dispenser digital calipers and micrometer and eventually want to get into annealing.
I reload for .270 win/ 338 lapua/ 300 rum/ 300 win mag/ 6.5 creedmoor. I honestly don't shoot past 1000 yards but would like to start stretching out the lapua.
Honestly really want a amp annealer but don't think that's in the budget so leaning towards a bench source annealer. What's your thoughts on the bench source?
1. Deprime all brass on rock chucker
2. Tumble all brass (clean)
3. Lube and size brass
4. Anneal all brass (after I purchase)
5. Trim all brass
6. Wet tumble brass and dry
6. Prime brass
7. Weigh Powder
8. Seat bullets
9. Tumble ammo for 10/15 minutes to get lube off
Any advice appreciated!!! Thanks
New Brass |
Primer cleanup, 1 time |
Flash cleanup 1 time |
Neck turn, 1 time |
Reload |
Deprime |
Wet tumble clean 45 min |
Inspect |
Anneal |
Length_Trim |
Chamfer mouth when trimmed |
Sort by weight |
FL neck die, .002 shoulder bump .004 undersize neck |
Lube_FL size_Prime_Hand clean |
Dry lube_Inside mandrel .002 undersize |
Load powder |
Seat bullet |
Ogive length check |
Weight check, as double check powder load |
Final Inspect |
Think about this.... Loaded rounds.... Tumbling.... This is NEVER a good idea! Primers are sensitive to shock and static electricity. As has been previously stated, powder kernels will break down causing a change in burn rate. Don't do it.I will definitely have to look into this. Thanks
Once again gibberishThink about this.... Loaded rounds.... Tumbling.... This is NEVER a good idea! Primers are sensitive to shock and static electricity. As has been previously stated, powder kernels will break down causing a change in burn rate. Don't do it.
There is no risk involved, at allWell, I don't know how important your ammunition is to you, but I spend a lot of time and money on making precision ammunition, for precision long range shooting, in expensive rifles, with my cheek on stock. I do not want to do anything to potentially damage my ammunition in any way. I do not believe there to be a good reason for tumble cleaning live ammunition if there is any possibility of causing a change in consistency, reliability or safety. It just is not worth it to me, especially when tumbling can be done before loading. Why risk it?