Question about annealing

[lancetkenyon]

People have their own procedures but I anneal every firing. May be unnecessary.
Dont know. It's too easy to skip for me thankfully.

This. I anneal every firing.

 

[meatyrem]

I'm gonna start after every firing.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

I'm gonna start after every firing.

What annealer?

 

[meatyrem]

This one. https://www.epintegrations.com/product-page/ep-2-0-annealer

I been doing all my brass over the last couple months.

 

[Hudge76]

The only brass I have had split necks with has been Hornady. I've had some crappy Winchester brass, but the necks didn't split. The last package of Hornady brass I bought, had two split necks new in the package. I refuse to buy any more Hornady brass.

 

[ButterBean]

I have recently bought a Remington 700 sps chambered in 300 RUM that I would like to mainly use for hunting. Along with the rifle, I got 100 rounds of new R&P brass and about 50 rounds of several times fired R&P brass. On initial inspection I found several of the fired brass had split necks. I believe this brass to be fired 3-4 times, but do not know for sure. I usually tumble and sonic clean the brass after sizing to get sizing case lube residue off the cases and to have a nice clean and polished case before reloading, which upon further close inspection, I found more hairline splits in several more of the fired cases, that I could not see on initial inspection. My question: Is it okay to anneal this brass "after" sizing? I know I should have annealed right away after finding initial split necks, but I'm no expert and I never thought of it until doing some research.....after I resized. I would like to extend the life of the brass, knowing it is very work hardened, although the consensus on LRH is to anneal "before" sizing, not after. I have never annealed before, and plan on using the drill socket, torch, towel cool method. I know neck tension could be an issue, but I believe brass life is more of an issue considering availability and price of such brass. Thoughts? All input is welcome, and thanks in advance!

Anneal before sizing and I have a video on the Drill and Socket process if your interested, this method works just fine

 

[SheepShapeAK]

I always use a dedicated decapping die, clean with steel media, anneal, and then FL resize.

Also, the updated Annie induction annealer is pretty sweet.

 

[Bang4theBuck]

I Agree. Thats the problem, I suppose, with buying someone else's "used" brass. I'm sure it didn't get just a shoulder bump and it is showing the reasons why it should have. The only brass I have found available is ADG brass, which has good reviews. I may go that route, but I do have 100 rounds of new R&P brass, to get me started. If annealing after sizing is a definite "no go", I will just plan to shoot what I have for fired cases and figure it may fail with one more firing, before I can get it annealed. I also have a 338 RUM that I love and have had no issues with either! Thanks for the reply.

Not sure what your expectations are with this rifle as far as accuracy and consistency, but at the cost of the components these days, you may not want to spend a lot of.time working up a load with the Rem Brass. The ADG will be better in every way (other than the need for another investment). If you don't get really really good groups and consistency, I woukd have always wondered if it was the brass. Not all brass is equal. I would strongly suggest you start with higher quality brass. Either way, best of luck with your rifle.

 

[Rusty85]

Right or wrong here's my process and it's worked for years now with great results.

1. Deprime
2. FL size with no expander button in the die
3. Tumble with corn media
4. Anneal with my AMP.
5. Expand necks with a mandel.
6. Three way trim on a Henderson.

I used the same process when I had a flame annealer with the same results.

 

[C-130 Dude]

Right or wrong here's my process and it's worked for years now with great results.

1. Deprime
2. FL size with no expander button in the die
3. Tumble with corn media
4. Anneal with my AMP.
5. Expand necks with a mandel.

I used the same process when I had a flame annealer with the same results.

You FL size before you tumble the cases or anneal? Curious.

 

[Rusty85]

Yes. I like making good looking reloads. Most people that see my reloads think it factory loaded rounds. Sizing before you tumble that way if there's any sizing marks the tumbling takes them away. And by not having the expander button in the die I don't re-expand the neck until after I anneal so I'm getting consistent neck tension.
Unknown Munitions also uses this same method when you send them brass to load, except they use a wet tumbler instead of a dry. I was doing before I heard their method but it kind of validated that what I was doing also works for other people.

 

[cowboy]

Anneal before sizing and I have a video on the Drill and Socket process if your interested, this method works just fine

I'd be interested in seeing the video -

 

[C-130 Dude]

Yes. I like making good looking reloads. Most people that see my reloads think it factory loaded rounds. Sizing before you tumble that way if there's any sizing marks the tumbling takes them away. And by not having the expander button in the die I don't re-expand the neck until after I anneal so I'm getting consistent neck tension.
Unknown Munitions also uses this same method when you send them brass to load, except they use a wet tumbler instead of a dry. I was doing before I heard their method but it kind of validated that what I was doing also works for other people.

I understand the button issue. But how do you fair with your die getting crudded up with the ensuing wear that comes from running a dirty case through the die? Can't say I would be ok with this. My dies cost way too much for me to take a chance on damaging them. But if it works for you, so be it.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

I'd be interested in seeing the video - start at 10:20 to see the process.