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Question about annealing

Brand spanking new 7mm-08 light recoil ammunition!
About a year ago I had purchased several boxes of precision hunter 145 grain 270 Winchester ammo to get ready for an elk hunt, and all the rims were too small! measured between .465 to .469 IIRC. My Ruger M77 MKII would not extract them at all! When I called Hornady they told me to check my ejector (Really?!?!). What I hadn't done when I called them is to double check other (older) Hornady factory ammo to see if it extracted. I did after the call, and without fail, it all extracted/ejected properly.

And for the record, it extracts/ejects everything else I feed it. Remington factory ammo, and handloads in both nosler and FC brass.

Moral of the story is that it seems Hornady has a brass QC problem lately.
 
They are all working so hard to spit out ammo that some stuff slips through the cracks. The worst issue I have with Hornady in my guns is their Superformance loads being overpressure. I've had some boxes where you had to get the cleaning rod out and use it to get the brass out.
That and some have loose primer pockets after one firing
 
Annealing correctly is worth every penny to me.
Find a couple local guys and split the cost of a good machine, you won't regret the gain.
The only problem is finding the friends. The best thing is I have sons. I do agree that annealing is worth every penny. Back in the days of the case in the pie or cake pan and using a torch worked just fine for me at that time. It stop my neck from splitting. Only lost primer pocket get to big. Anneal first then size. if your necks are splitting after once fired. Either the brass has been used and not care for the case, or something is wrong in the chamber. I don't know if you are cutting necks for even thickness, and possible you are cutting your neck to thin.
 
Check out EP Integrations' annealer. A buddy of mine who's also on this forum put me onto it. It's really decently priced and nicely thought out especially in how you switch from one cartridge to another.

And once you dial it in, you really can get through a ton of cases quickly. So even my lazy *ss can get behind annealing.
 
Wasn't Remington having some quality control issues a few years ago with their firearms? I wonder if this is an indication of their quality control issues with their brass too! It could be COVID related because many businesses were having trouble keeping experienced employees -- so has anyone seen any issues with other Remington products?
 
I have recently bought a Remington 700 sps chambered in 300 RUM that I would like to mainly use for hunting. Along with the rifle, I got 100 rounds of new R&P brass and about 50 rounds of several times fired R&P brass. On initial inspection I found several of the fired brass had split necks. I believe this brass to be fired 3-4 times, but do not know for sure. I usually tumble and sonic clean the brass after sizing to get sizing case lube residue off the cases and to have a nice clean and polished case before reloading, which upon further close inspection, I found more hairline splits in several more of the fired cases, that I could not see on initial inspection. My question: Is it okay to anneal this brass "after" sizing? I know I should have annealed right away after finding initial split necks, but I'm no expert and I never thought of it until doing some research.....after I resized. I would like to extend the life of the brass, knowing it is very work hardened, although the consensus on LRH is to anneal "before" sizing, not after. I have never annealed before, and plan on using the drill socket, torch, towel cool method. I know neck tension could be an issue, but I believe brass life is more of an issue considering availability and price of such brass. Thoughts? All input is welcome, and thanks in advance!
I talked to another guy that told me in the 2000 ish time period Remington had a bad batch of brass. I had 1 and 2 times fired brass come out with split necks. I got my RUM's and brass around that time as well. I since then got an EP 2.0 annealer it's cheap and does the job. So last few months I've been going through all of my brass and annealing it all.
 
I have recently bought a Remington 700 sps chambered in 300 RUM that I would like to mainly use for hunting. Along with the rifle, I got 100 rounds of new R&P brass and about 50 rounds of several times fired R&P brass. On initial inspection I found several of the fired brass had split necks. I believe this brass to be fired 3-4 times, but do not know for sure. I usually tumble and sonic clean the brass after sizing to get sizing case lube residue off the cases and to have a nice clean and polished case before reloading, which upon further close inspection, I found more hairline splits in several more of the fired cases, that I could not see on initial inspection. My question: Is it okay to anneal this brass "after" sizing? I know I should have annealed right away after finding initial split necks, but I'm no expert and I never thought of it until doing some research.....after I resized. I would like to extend the life of the brass, knowing it is very work hardened, although the consensus on LRH is to anneal "before" sizing, not after. I have never annealed before, and plan on using the drill socket, torch, towel cool method. I know neck tension could be an issue, but I believe brass life is more of an issue considering availability and price of such brass. Thoughts? All input is welcome, and thanks in advance!
Always anneal before sizing. This process softens the neck so it's less prone to cracking. Don't bother with the towel, unless you need it to transfer the brass to a container to cool.
 
Search it up as there are dozens of threads on this with 1000's of comments. Everything is covered from just holding brass over a torch to $1000 machines. Opinions and beliefs from A-Z on all options if you want to anneal.
 
My question: Is it okay to anneal this brass "after" sizing? I know I should have annealed right away after finding initial split necks, but I'm no expert and I never thought of it until doing some research.....after I resized. I would like to extend the life of the brass, knowing it is very work hardened, although the consensus on LRH is to anneal "before" sizing, not after. I have never annealed before, and plan on using the drill socket, torch, towel cool method. I know neck tension could be an issue, but I believe brass life is more of an issue considering availability and price of such brass. Thoughts? All input is welcome, and thanks in advance!
Always anneal before sizing. The torch method is fine, just be consistent in how you do it (time and flame position).
 
 
Wasn't Remington having some quality control issues a few years ago with their firearms? I wonder if this is an indication of their quality control issues with their brass too! It could be COVID related because many businesses were having trouble keeping experienced employees -- so has anyone seen any issues with other Remington products?
I've run some Remington ammo across the chronograph that was no where near the published velocity when using the same barrel length. And not by just a little bit. 2700 is a long way from 3060 for 270 bullets. Also had some really slow 3006 loads. Again same barrel length. This was Remington Corlokt. Federal Premiums seem to reach box speeds and Hornady will be close.
 
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I'm really surprised Hornady quality control let those get by
I was too. Was all set to let a friends daughter use them last season. Every one in the box was split. Hornady did make them good after I sent the box back. Each case was split on the opposite side as well as the side in the photo. That photo was actually sent to Hornady before they asked for the box back. It was the first thing they requested. They gave no explanation as to why they thought they split. Just gave me a new box which was fine with no splits..
 

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