John Klingenberg
Well-Known Member
This isn't a bad solution. Only cost you the price of the stamp..
Suppressor leak and tube cracked
- Thread starter Blancoalex
- Start date
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Blancoalex
Well-Known Member
Thanks again for responses. Weighing options using all the suggestions.
hunter0528
Well-Known Member
I do not know much about Cans, my state does not allow them. But could you sleeve the inside and reduce the diameter of each of the baffles that go in? Just a thought, sort of like sleeving a worn out barrel?
6.5-300 BEE
Well-Known Member
I'm sure your can can be MIG welded and fixed.
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2016
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- 693
So apparently this is an issue with many of the cans from Crux. Below is a link to SH and I have found many more forums online complaint of the same issues. Looks like you are on your own to fix it...
www.snipershide.com
Suppressors - Warning Crux Suppressors
Hey all, If you are on the fence or considering purchasing a Crux suppressor I would run away from them now. I have one and it has not worked from day one. The can leaks at both ends and sent my suppressor cover flying down range after a shot. I reached out to them to have the suppressor...
www.snipershide.com
For that job my choice would be TIG welding with a backing of copper or brass inside of the tube to keep warping to a minim . That way you can control the heat input and heat affected zone better as well as having a better selection of filler metal so as to match the tube metal better . I would go with what BATF says I could do for a repair if any first .
When I looked at the picture it looked to me like the engraving was a little deep as well as having some pretty sharp corners creating some bad stress raisers that would be acted on by pressure and higher temperature differentials as the thin metal heats up faster and then cools faster as well as having more give under pressure . But I'm sure that when I was purchasing one ,if I didn't know there was a problem with them , I wouldn't have paid any attention to it .
Mooseknuckles
Well-Known Member
My buddy is going to have to deal with getting his suppressor repaired or replaced right now. YHM is closed at the moment so no work back from them.
He was shooting his 308 yesterday and the gun sounded funny. Noticed his suppressor cover was ripped. Sure enough the tube cracked. No baffle strikes, shooting 175 black hills ammo.
This was in a YHM ti can.
He was shooting his 308 yesterday and the gun sounded funny. Noticed his suppressor cover was ripped. Sure enough the tube cracked. No baffle strikes, shooting 175 black hills ammo.
hunter0528
Well-Known Member
Quick question, since I'm not allowed to own one in Massachusetts. What is the purpose of the cloth wrap around the supppressor?
To help mitigate mirage from heat generated off the suppressor when you shoot.
the crack is in the logo. have the crack ground out a little and have it tig welded then sand/grind it smooth or have it turned smooth on a lathe and paint with some high heat paint or get it cerakoted. it'll mess up the logo but they're out of business so who cares?
mig welding would impart too much heat on it which would weaken the metal and potentially allow it to crack it again. you could also warp the tube slightly (even though it may look fine) which could result in baffle strikes.
the aesthetics would be my last concern as long as it functioned. you can always cover it with a suppressor wrap.
mig welding would impart too much heat on it which would weaken the metal and potentially allow it to crack it again. you could also warp the tube slightly (even though it may look fine) which could result in baffle strikes.
the aesthetics would be my last concern as long as it functioned. you can always cover it with a suppressor wrap.
hunter0528
Well-Known Member
Thanks
That picture shows what I was saying about stress raisers being caused by the engraving . A nice straight line crack a long the edge of the logo . Ti isn't hard to TIG . I don't know if wire for MIG welding is very available in Ti . and the heat input high . After welding it and heat treating if required I might think about putting some S.S. bands around it not screw type hose clamps but the hose bands with buckles in that area for added support . Once again I would make a copper or brass backer to put in the tube to mitigate warpage and help with heat control . My self I would clean it with alcohol vee out the crack and pull it together with hose clamps drill the ends of the crack to stop it from running then stich weld it 1/4 to 1/2 inch welds starting from the ends and meeting in the middle . Peening each weld as it was done to stress relieve it . Just my thoughts on that one .
