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sub 1000$ Gun (Not Custom)

could you give me an example of a a remington, browning, or whatever that comes with a HS precision or B&C?
I know the Sendero rifles and the 5R MilSpec rifles come with an aluminum bedded HS Precision stock on them. The Alaskan Ti series rifles come with a Bell & Carlson aluminum bedded stock on it. The Mountain SS comes in the same B&C stock as the Alaskan Ti model. The Model 700 Target Tactical comes in a B&C Medalist M40 stock. The VS SF & VS SFII comes in an HS Precision stock. And the 700 XCR Tactical Long Range comes in a B&C aluminum bedded stock.

Whew.....That was a workout. :D
 
On the bright side of that, there's a lot of people who are very loyal to whatever manufacturer they prefer for very good reasons. We live in a time when you can buy a rifle from just abuot any of the big manufacturers and walk away with an outstanding quality firearm. The confusion you're having right now, is a really great position to be in because you have an ocean of choices and can find something that will suit your needs/wants very closely opposed to having everyone on here agree that XYZ gun is the best and then if you didn't like something about it.

Remington's are outstanding with more aftermarket support than anything else. As much as I love savage the stock selection for Remington's is so much better. As much as I like the aftermarket support for Remington's in my experience I've had better luck with savage's on the accuracy department. It's the difference between a 1/2" (110FP) vs 7/8" (SPS Tact) which is pretty minimal in the shooting distances you're talking about.

You've gotten a lot of solid advice from a lot of different angles, now you need to go shoulder some rifles and see what you like, not what we like.
Best advice the OP has recieved yet! I agree completely. Get what feels the most natural to you...Because in the end, you'll be the one shooting it...Not us.

Like he said, whichever direction you go, you should be fine. Good luck on your quest. And if you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
 
You've gotten a lot of solid advice from a lot of different angles, now you need to go shoulder some rifles and see what you like, not what we like.

THIS ^^^^^

You need to ask yourself some questions about what you are really after and be honest with yourself about what you really want. Then, do some good old fashioned tire kicking.

Regardless of the amount of money you are willing to spend, I am a believer in paying careful attention to the value you are getting for your dollar. Not all rifles in the same price range offer the same amount of value.

Above all, go with what you like and feel good about spending your money on. If you're not sure, you haven't found what you are looking for. When you find it, you will know it.
 
THIS ^^^^^

You need to ask yourself some questions about what you are really after and be honest with yourself about what you really want. Then, do some good old fashioned tire kicking.

Regardless of the amount of money you are willing to spend, I am a believer in paying careful attention to the value you are getting for your dollar. Not all rifles in the same price range offer the same amount of value.

Above all, go with what you like and feel good about spending your money on. If you're not sure, you haven't found what you are looking for. When you find it, you will know it.

thats what im trying to do weigh the pros and cons and also consider value. I can see where a 600 dollar rifle may have good vaule but if something is a bit better and costs 850 I may do it. If something is A LOT better and is 1000 I will probably do it. It's just everytime I think ive settled, I find something that makes me second guess. Like the tikka t3 lite supposedly pretty decent, BUT apperently kicks bad in 3006 and has a bad recoil pad. The Savage 111 accutrigger and stock seems decent but will not hold its value for resale and some say the stock is simply the same old flimsy stock with flimsy alluminum bedding. The xbolt synthetic gets similar reviews with it's stock. The remingtons come with "bad" triggers apperently haha. I have tried most of these different rifles and for myself couldnt tell much difference (except the xbolt's recoil pad does seem really nice), but I dont want to get something and months down the road realise "oh...thats what they meant stunk on this rifle" haha.

Yes...I am not a competition shooter and understand most if not all of the rifle's I mentioned above will outshoot me...BUT that being said...I want a bad shot to occur because of MY faults and not the RIFLE's faults.
 
First I will state I own and like Rems. I have a few, Sendero, 5R mil spec in 300wm, VSSF in 308, Heavy barrel varmint in 223, and a semi custom 7mm built on 700 action. Here is my recommendation you've mentioned tikka more than once so you might want to look at a Tikka with the laminated stock, it is a little heavier, and is one **** nice looking rifle comes with an adj. trigger you can get down to about 1.5lbs. I owned one in 308 that was a good shooter out to your range requirements. I sold it to a member on the forum and he sent me an email not to long ago stating it was his favorite rifle. The only reason I sold it, it wouldn't get me to 1000 reliably,( light barrel). And Tikka's actions are smooth as butter on a fat chick.:D:D:cool:
 
You can draw any rifle mentioned so far out of a hat and it will function well as a mechanical system. If a bad shot occurs, it WILL be your failure rather than the fault of the rifle.

The REAL question is: Will you like using the rifle you choose?

Only you can truly answer that question. I can tell you what I like all day long, but all I am really telling you is what my likes and prejudices are. That doesn't really help you.

There is no substitute for homework and legwork on this stuff. So far, you have stated that you desire a 30-06 with a synthetic stock that costs no more than $1000. That is the rough equivalent of going car shopping having decided that you want a blue four-door. It's a start, but you have left a lot of questions unasked and unanswered.

30-06? Solid choice.

Synthetic stock?

There are good synthetic stocks and bad synthetic stocks. You need to do enough homework to be able to tell the difference. Most factory synthetics are the cheapest possible plastic crap. Pretty much, if it's not an HS, B&C, McMillan, or Manners, it is junk.

Other questions you need to ask include:

What is your style of hunting?

What is your recoil tolerance?

How much do you want your rifle to weigh?

How important is rifle appearance, fit, and finish to you?

Are you a wood and blued steel traditionalist?

Or do you prefer fiberglass, plastic, and stainless steel?

Do you prefer controlled feed or push feed actions?

What type of trigger do you prefer (single stage, two stage, set, etc.) and what is your desired trigger pull weight?

What is your preferred barrel length? Twist?

Start refining the questions you are asking, along with the answers to those questions, and you will begin to have a better idea of what you are looking for. So far, all you really have is a list of people's favorite rifles in the $1000 to $1300 price range. That doesn't tell you much and it isn't particularly relevant to your wants and needs.
 
You can draw any rifle mentioned so far out of a hat and it will function well as a mechanical system. If a bad shot occurs, it WILL be your failure rather than the fault of the rifle.

The REAL question is: Will you like using the rifle you choose?

30-06? Solid choice.

Synthetic stock?

There are good synthetic stocks and bad synthetic stocks. You need to do enough homework to be able to tell the difference. Most factory synthetics are the cheapest possible plastic crap. Pretty much, if it's not an HS, B&C, McMillan, or Manners, it is junk.

Other questions you need to ask include:

What is your style of hunting?

What is your recoil tolerance?

How much do you want your rifle to weigh?

How important is rifle appearance, fit, and finish to you?

Are you a wood and blued steel traditionalist?

Or do you prefer fiberglass, plastic, and stainless steel?

Do you prefer controlled feed or push feed actions?

What type of trigger do you prefer (single stage, two stage, set, etc.) and what is your desired trigger pull weight?

What is your preferred barrel length? Twist?

That doesn't tell you much and it isn't particularly relevant to your wants and needs.

I understand what you are saying so i will try and answer your questions:

1. No it doesnt have to be synthetic stock if they really are that bad maybe I will consider a regular stock, its just it would **** me off if I scratch a beautiful wooden stock but not so much a synthetic stock.

2. I currently have shot my father in laws browning A-bolt 7mm mag, xbolt 300wsm, and my buddies 270. None of which have actully been synthetic. I was ok with all the recoil...yes the 300mag was a bit much after 10 shots or so and wasnt exactly "fun" to shoot but the primary purpose of this rifle will be hunting. Bench shooting will happen but mostly for pre-season sighting/practice.

3. My style of hunting: mostly in stands but I do have two fields I hunt that have 400 yard max distance. Doesnt mean I will shoot that far. Will be for deer but may go on an elk hunt next year.

4. Weight of rifle is unknown for me. I dont think it matters just as long as it isnt the HEAVIEST thing haha. I dont do a lot of walking. We have ATVs to get us within a few hundred yards of our final destinations.

5. Accuracy out of the box is probably my number two concern(next to I want a 3006 caliber) rather than how pretty the rifle looks but I do appreciate a nice looking rifle. as far as blued vs stainless I really dont care. I am not really ever out in rain to much and if I do get caught in it...I will be home in warmth by the end of that day will dry and clean the rifle.

6. action types are really unknown to me and so is trigger pulls except I know the brownings I shoot are right around 3lbs and feel nice to me.

7. barrel length and twist is another unknown to me but I would prefer something that will get me to 400 yards using a heavy enough bullet to take a deer. im sure 150s-180s would all work.
 
Bigeclipse,

I think you've got too many good choices...I've been in your shoes. Some days I wonder if things were easier when Henry Ford was telling folks they can have a Model T in any color they want as long as it's black.

I too feel savages are good rifles, but getting a little overpriced.

Now that I learned you'll be in a stand hunting, I'd say a shorter barrel (22") may be better little easier in tight areas, but no big deal if you have a 24" barrel. Twist rate in the barrel for almost all you're looking at will be the same. If your shooting max is 400 yards then 165 gr. bullets are all you need. Also, surprising to some, I've found 165s to be a little more accurate in '06 that I've dealt with vs the 150s.

You like the brownings you've shot, and I'd recommend going that route as you're comfortable with it, and liked it. I'd go A-bolt as I think the extra cost of mounting a scope on the X-bolt isn't necessary, but either will be a great rifle. Just noticed browning isn't showing any current run stainless a-bolts. So here's your beauty:

X-Bolt Stainless Stalker, Detachable Magazine Bolt-Action Hunting Rifle, Browning Firearms Product

I know I'd be thrilled with it. You can't go wrong with a browning...buy it. You'll be happy with it.
 
I appreciate everyone's responses. I am even more confused now than ever.
So far looks like:
Tikka lite is decent but kicks hard because of how lite it is.
Savage is decent but gets bashed a lot about flimsy stocks.
Remington 700 is decent and has a great history but is more expensive and some say over priced.
Xbolt is decent but again is more expensive than the tikka and savage for maybe not a lot of gain.
Vanguard is decent but also more expensive and maybe with not much to gain.
Then some commented on some guns I have never heard of which left me even more confused.

I was hoping to come on here and hear an almost general concensus as to what most would buy with a 1000 dollars or less and now I am confused more than ever hahahaha.

You have been provided excellent choices and recommendations from members that are willing and able to share their personal experiences. The same is true on your other threads as I follow them closely ...

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/brand-270-308-7mm08-120082/

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/leadsled-help-please-119696/

Please don't take this the wrong way but I too am confused as you are all over the place.

I too agree with teddy12b and he also answered why there's no general consensus ... at least the one you're looking for ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by teddy12b
You've gotten a lot of solid advice from a lot of different angles, now you need to go shoulder some rifles and see what you like, not what we like.
 
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Any bottom level plastic stock is turd, Savage, Remington or Tikka. Stocks can be changed easily with the Savage and Remington and you can get any number of quality with either. Savage Accutrigger is good but can be stellar with just a little tweaking the Rem can be made serviceable but swapping them out is just easier.
After sale tweaking easily goes to Savage since you can roll on a custom barrel at home in anything you'd like, if you want to change your head spacing you just do it but a Rem will set you back coin any time you do something.

As far as accuracy I have been able to make both shoot equally well at stupid long ranges, I can do it with a lot less work with the Savage but the Rem will feed a longer cartridge.
I see Savage sells rifles of the self that compete at a high level so I guess that says something!
 
Any bottom level plastic stock is turd, Savage, Remington or Tikka. Stocks can be changed easily with the Savage and Remington and you can get any number of quality with either. Savage Accutrigger is good but can be stellar with just a little tweaking the Rem can be made serviceable but swapping them out is just easier.
After sale tweaking easily goes to Savage since you can roll on a custom barrel at home in anything you'd like, if you want to change your head spacing you just do it but a Rem will set you back coin any time you do something.

As far as accuracy I have been able to make both shoot equally well at stupid long ranges, I can do it with a lot less work with the Savage but the Rem will feed a longer cartridge.
I see Savage sells rifles of the self that compete at a high level so I guess that says something!

Rhian,

The problem is he's stuck with ...

NOTE: I DO NOT intend on modifying the rifle so please dont say buy "this rifle" and then change "this" out and it will be great.

Ed
 
I went and shouldered a lot of rifles and the one I kept coming back to was the Remington mountain ss. I bought it and I'm pretty excited. after reading some on it...it does seem to have one down fall...due to thin barrel it heats up fast and starts losing accuracy after a 3 shot group...which since this will be a hunting rifle shouldn't be an issue unless I miss a lot haha. the one thing I noted was these bad reviews for it say that their rifle weighs just over 5 pounds but currently on Remingtons website it claims it's 6.5 pounds and under rifle "status" they will either put discontinued, current or new and this rifle is labeled new so I wonder if maybe they made a change to it some how.

After looking around online there is a video review from remington on youtube stating the remington mountain ss is new for 2012...so it does look like it was updated. Not sure what changes they made but whatever they did they upped the weight of the gun from 5.25 pounds to 6.5 pounds.
 
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I'm right there with you on this. I've got a 110FP in 30-06 and I shoot the same targets at 1,000 yards as the guys showing up with a AI costing 5 times the money. It blows my mind that people downplay Savage rifles because they cost less. The most accurate out of the box rifle on the market since the invention of the accu-trigger has been the heavy barreled savage rifle. If they cost twice as much they'd still be a bargain compared to any remington that I've ever seen.

The first thing most guys do when they buy any rifle of any make change out the stocks to something that suits them better. I've got a savage mark II FV-SR wearing a boyds tacticool, a 10FP-SR in 223 wearing a medalist, and the 110FP I mentioned above is in a duramaxx. Any of these rifles will outshoot or at worst be a close second accuracy wise to any comparable rifle from any other manufacturer.

I'll be happy to show up with my savages 30-06 and outshoot whatever other brand you're planning on buying. I'll even let you take my rifle for a test drive and fire as many rounds as you'd like.

Gotta admit the whole rifle industry was in the crapper but Savage stepped up and pulled themselves up by their own bootstraps and lifted everyone else up along the way (Remington was the last to follow). I don't own a Savage but I should.
 
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