DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
The crimp feature is on the seating die. I have that set for no crimp. Really with I hadn't sized all 50 pieces I got. LOL I have some Peterson brass coming with a two week lead time...
Stiff Bolt Turning New Gun
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Resize one brass....leave it empty...try it in the gun...see if it changes anything...process of elimination is all....
Saskquatch6
Well-Known Member
Agree with Skipglo on this - if when chambering an empty piece of brass you can feel some pressure or resistance but the bolt still closes fairly easily, I think you already have your fix with dies etc on hand. When sizing your brass you will want to adjust your die down in increments - testing the chambering of the brass each time - until you no longer feel resistance on the bolt. An issue I have encountered twice is that I ran out of die adjustment before bumping shoulder far enough to accomplish the above. I was able to grind a few thousandths off my shell holder in both cases to get the bump required. Redding Competition Shell Holders are made to do the same or alternatively you could shave a little off the bottom of your die. Trimming your existing shell holder if necessary is the cheapest way to go and if you mess up you're only out $5. I wouldn't mess with dies if you don't have to. I think Erick Cortina has a Utube video showing proper sizing die adjustment if you're interested.
Saskquatch6
Well-Known Member
What Skip said in a few words took me an essay!
PS - don't be afraid to keep sizing the same piece of brass until you find the right die setting and ensure cases are trimmed to length and I think most variables will be eliminated. Good luck
Sizing die is seldom explained well in instructions with the dies...pretty easy though...back your seater stem out a fair ways....and the die.....run up a sized case full stroke....now screw the seater die down until it touches the case neck ( you feel resistance)..back the die off 1/4 turn and lock it down.....RCBS always said....screw sizing die down till contacts shellholder...give another 1/8-1/4 turn till you get slight cam over.....screw seater die down till contacts shellholder....SCREW BACK UP 1/4 TURN....but this was where (when I was newer) I encountered the crimp which collapsed the shoulders....just MHO
Lol....I just responded to your Essay...with my Essay
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
I discovered my problem. Trying to start into a new caliber between hectic times in life, I set up the sizer with a 1/4 turn out from touching shell holder and not the proper 1/4 turn in. Mystery solved. If I only had a brain sometimes I'd be dangerous.
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
This. This was it. Thanks!
Sometimes we all are!!!!! At least you are up and running! That's all that matters
DO NOT go by the 1/4 turn instructions setting up dies it only leads to problems like you discovered, get a comparator and measure its the only way to bump your shoulders properly
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
I have a comparator, but right now I'm turning in the die until it actions smoothly. That comparator will come in handy on the fired brass.
K, now it makes sense
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
No, no it doesn't!
I shot the gun today for first time. Comparator measurement before firing that made it cycle smoothly was 3.618". Fired brass measured the same...so, what do we do now, Sir! LolSaskquatch6
Well-Known Member
That's a good thing BFD - the brass is now fire-formed to your chamber and given your measurement with your gauge you must have bumped the shoulder of the new brass you just fired back to the point of just fitting the chamber. From this point on, you should resize your now fire-formed brass to set back the shoulder so its about .002" shorter or 3.616" in your case and it should chamber easily. You will have to do this after every firing of that same brass. If your measurements are right and sizing die settings are correct, you should always be able to size your brass (bump shoulder) to 3.616" and it should chamber properly each time.No, no it doesn't!
