First Custom bolt gun

[74honker]

Tagging in.

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

Personally, I would not use brass as go gauge, you are investing in new barrel, wrenches et al, Headspace gauge is just one more necessary tool to assure you have set headspace to SAAMI. Why skimp on probably the most important aspect to set your chamber right? Most come reasonably priced with both go and no go. Last a lifetime if you take care if them. I also set remage nut with torque wrench on the nut wrench. You know exactly every time what the barrel nut has been torqued to which is important for consistent barrel tuning. Some folks add witness mark on nut to barrel to insure it doesn't move. I have not needed to do that with consistent torque on nut.

Although action wrenches have slots for 700 recoil lugs, they may not be perfectly aligned/level with bottom of receiver so you need to be sure on that.

Consider Holland heavy version recoil lug as well. Take your time, measure "twice" theory applies here.

I will second the torque wrench. I always torque mine to 50ftlbs.

 

[Rugerman77]

Where can you rent them? Is it cost effective?

From what I've read the nut torque should be about 80 lbs?

 

[Idaho Lefty]

@ Creedmoor shooter,..
I bought 200 Rounds of New Norma Brass and Planned to use, THIS Brass, ONLY (exclusively), til' bbl is,.. shot out.
Between my, Criterion Chamber, the nice Norma Brass, the Perfect, Forster Dies and just, a TIGHT Fit, on the "Go Gage",.. ALL was,. Magic for,.. me.
After 25-30 Years of Prof. Gunsmithing, I kinda developed a "Feel" for,.. Torqing chit down ! LOL, but, the Nuts,..STILL,.. Holding !
I have "somewhere" between,.. 50 to 80 lbs of Torque ( approx ! ). YUP,. I'm kinda, "Old School"

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Using "Good" Brass, you are NOT using them, as a "Headspace Gage",.. only making SURE that,.. they,.. FIT !
Then you make SURE that, the Bolt "starts" to close, "tight" on, the Go Gage !
It's NOT,.. "Rocket Science"

 

[Rugerman77]

Thank so for all the input lefty

 

[Idaho Lefty]

You are Welcome ! Take your time on the Project, think this, stuff, ALL out and you will be,.. FINE !
Everything I said, "worked" real well for, ME. Good luck !

 

[Creedmoor shooter]

Where can you rent them? Is it cost effective?

From what I've read the nut torque should be about 80 lbs?

I rented mine from elk ridge reamer rentals. I think it only cost me 20 bucks if I remember right. I just started buying them though because I go through enough barrels now that I need them

 

[spladi]

So you could in theory get away with using FL sized brass?

 

[spladi]

You can get away with that method but don't reduce the headspace dimension of the case or just use a new unfired case as is. Go/no go gauges are best to use, to provide full support of the case head area and avoid future over swelling of the case just above the extractor recess.

 

[chav0_12]

Just buy the gauges, at least a go-gauge. If you ever want or need to rebarrel you'll have it. You would have saved money if you just bought it at that point. I tossed around the idea of renting the gauges for a build I did. I added up the costs and figured I'd have to use my gauges 3 times to make owning them worth it. I'm glad I did because I had to take the barrel off or some reason and I was able to reset it without having to wait a week for gauges to show up. Now, when I want to rebarrel or even build another rifle in the same caliber, I'll have the gauges already.

 

[tobnpr]

Set headspace with a go gauge, stripped bolt.
Confirm after by adding a piece of packing tape to the casehead (trim with a razor blade). Bolt handle shouldn't fall.

By taking the largest of a sample of fired brass (not resized), you can "tweak" the headspace after to more exactly fit your chamber if needed- but I'd always start with the go gauge. Keep in mind that setting HS tighter than SAAMI spec may preclude certain factory ammo from chambering.

 

[nksmfamjp]

50 to 80 lbs of Torque

I guess everyone has their own opinion. I used 35ftlbs on my last Savage. My goal is to get them off without destroying the barrel.

You need grease, torque wrench, barrel vise and action wrench. You shouldn't need an action wrench, but you have to keep it from turning, sooooo.

Grease needs to prevent galvanic corrosion and galling. I think aeroshell 33 is common enough and does both.

Torque wrench doesn't have to be a great one, but you do need to translate the torque from wrench head to bore centerline. Easy enough to find online.

Barrel vice. If you are torquing to 80 ft lbs or taking factory barrels off, you need the big vice, imo.

I hope some of this helps.

 

[RandySch]

Yes I ordered a remage for my first one last night.

Yes I understand that I'll have to check the headspace with go/no go. Just wanting to make sure I'm on the right track. I'll build my own barrel vice. Ordering an action wrench and may just build my own of that as well.

I don't foresee anything too overly complicated with this process. Am I wrong to assume this?

Building your own barrel vice could present a challenge. The clamping force required to keep a grip on factory barrel while breaking the action free, is significant. I have is a viper vise from Brownell's and discovered quickly that it did not have enough force to grip a Weatherby barrel... The barrel was a throw away and I wasn't concerned with the condition of it when I was finished. I soaked the action threads in Kroil for two days. Still wouldn't go. I finally used the vise with pipe wrench backup. I finally was able to pop it loose. A switch barrel design is great. You change barrels at ease which allows you to also change calibers.