Splitting necks...... still

I'm not one to dump brass after 3 firings, one good quality brass is expensive.
Second it's probably has just got fully fireformed to the chamber.
Learn to anneal it's really not that bad and cures alot of problems down the road.
yes I am the same way annealing is not hard I do my brass every two firings for my 300
 
Check your headspace, verify the bullet edge of the throat is not corroded from the heat of burning powder, and anneal your cases after three loads. The brass, for lack of a better description, is case hardened after very few firings on high pressure rounds. Hard brass results in the bullet being slightly retained instead of immediately releasing on firing. That causes a momentary pressure spike, and can split slightly hard brass. Soft cases also increase accuracy.
If the bullet is lightly seated on the throat, which is what you want for accuracy, a corroded throat will also result in a case pressure drop and then increase which will split the cases if they are not soft enough.
 
Looks like I need to dive deeper into the rabbit hole. I really didnt want to go down the annealing path but I guess I'm going to have to
It's not so bad, and you'll like the results. There is a very informative thread on accurate shooter, I think, that you may find interesting. Put alot of my questions to rest.
 
The 6BR EXPLAINS THE PROCESS WELL, this link will show you some different approaches to it,http://www.65guys.com/cartridge-case-annealing-techniques-and-equipment/
And lastly is a comparatively inexpensive but effective annealing machine which I have not used but am intrigued by;
https://annealeez.com/
My high tech method of annealing involves spinning a case by gripping it back on the rim while holding the neck in the flame of a propane torch and dropping it in a can of water when it gets hot on my fingers. So far it works well and does in fact get hot enough to anneal. Scientifically tested with vice grips and some junk cases. Alternately you can ship them to copper creek and get them annealed for a small price. https://www.coppercreekammo.com/product/brass-annealing
 
Before you get too far down the rabbit hole, I suggest just trying with a cordless drill and socket and torch first. This way you can quickly gauge how much it helps you without getting any of the machines. I actually anneal with a torch and drill myself and usually do about 50 cases at a time.
Below link is to a Youtube guy called Ammosmith. He is really good and explains things well. It's a good quick vid. Shows the colors to expect and everything.
 
Looks like I need to dive deeper into the rabbit hole. I really didnt want to go down the annealing path but I guess I'm going to have to

I made my own annealer.
Was a fun project!



1st aid box.jpg Annealer mock up.jpg 20160110_184531.jpg 20160120_164636.jpg
 
Last edited:
I use Hornady brass though. Which may well be a softer allow and not as prone to splitting. Ever had hornady brass split on you?


Creedmoor Shooter,
If you want to try some Hornady brass (50 cases) I have a bunch that you can have if you pay the actual shipping!

I can get out to you this Wednesday PM me your address if your interested.

I use Hornady brass almost exclusively and the neck splitting is about the last problem I have...primer pockets go first on my Grendel brass and they split at the web on the 6.5-06.
 
Working brass with sizing and seating does harden brass some. Another thing that will harden brass is tight fitting necks holding the bullets by friction only, That is why factory and military loads are crimped. They use little neck tension and crimp bullets in case so the necks won't tension harden and crack in storage. Military specs. calls for a sealer on the primer and bullet also.
Annealing is the only cure for split neck losses I have found I can depend on.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 6 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top