Small frame 6.5 Creedmore Reccomendations

Turpentine21

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South Carolina
I have built several rifles including an Aero M5 with a 22" barrel in 6.5 Creedmore. I needed a wheelbarrow to tote the thing. Most of my builds are Grendel'. My personal 308 is a DPMS G2 Hunter in 20" that I modded into more of a SASS rifle. It's probably my favorite rifle. It's light enough and it is very accurate.
A friend just asked me to build him a 6.5 Creedmore but he would prefer it on a smaller frame Or kept under a certain weight. I don't know much about the smaller framed guns other than my G2 and we all know what that situation is now.
With ARs I generally find money is best spent in three areas. Barrel, trigger, bolt. Yes there are other important aspects but those three will usually fetch results. The gun right now that is grabbing my eye is the Adams Arms. There are a lot of 18" guns there but was hoping for a 20". Yet 18 wouldn't be a dealbreaker. It seems at 18" there is pretty substantial velocity loss with the Creed. Crunching the numbers there vs, 308 seems to be a pretty even affair at Thermal//Night hunting ranges.
I Have also looked at POF. The Prescot I believe. This may be more of a straight buy rather than a build and that is ok. The main thing I am looking for is ultra reliable. The gun will be run with thermal as a depredation gun for deer and hogs. Generally for 400 yards and in use. I use my 308 or Grendel's in this role but he insists on the Creedmore. For longer ranges I switch to my 6.5-06 Bolt Gun. It was built for one reason. To kill deer and hogs from 400 to 1000 yards. It's heavy for a reason. Ok back to semi auto.😏
Any light you guys can shed on the small framed stuff would be mighty welcome. If I'm building, my name is in there and it needs to be right. I don't need anything finicky. As this thing will likely be used and abused. The gun needs to run MOA or less. I have no use for an inaccurate rifle and most of my builds will shoot very well with tuned hand loads.
I'd like to see the gun finish under 9 pounds empty, perhaps even an Aero M5 with a Proof Carbon fiber barrel could fill the role. If it can make the weight, I'm fine with that. There are a lot of you out there that are far smarter than I am. I know this. So any information would
be greatly appreciated.
 
The only sfar's I know of is from Ruger. I don't think they're in 6.5creed yet, but you might have to buy the complete rifle then do a barrel change? I have a 6.5creed that weighs (without optic) around 6.25# (20" barrel). Would that be light enough?
 
This is the one
 

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Anything that comes in under 9lbs or closer to 8lbs in a 20" barrel would be fine. That's empty, no scope, and no brake. Just a thread protector. But I don't want a pencil profile barrel. Would prefer one with enough diameter that it won't heat too quickly. The other requirement is having a stock that allows for a good cheekweld. I generally use an ACS L on Grendel's and my 308 has a rifle length buffer tube with a Magpul PRS.
Yes that rifle could work for what I'm after with some changes.
 
Anything that comes in under 9lbs or closer to 8lbs in a 20" barrel would be fine. That's empty, no scope, and no brake. Just a thread protector. But I don't want a pencil profile barrel. Would prefer one with enough diameter that it won't heat too quickly. The other requirement is having a stock that allows for a good cheekweld. I generally use an ACS L on Grendel's and my 308 has a rifle length buffer tube with a Magpul PRS.
Yes that rifle could work for what I'm after with some changes.
You can add a cheek rest (+4-6oz) and a heavier barrel (+ 16-20oz) and will be under 8# (probably around 7.5#). I have/use several different pencil barrels in different cartridges that'll hold 1moa or better with range ammo. A16" barrel with fast fire rate of 360 rounds of 62gr lap held under 1.5 at 100 yards. This was also done with a 49 $ optic. Shot time was somewhere between 3-5 minutes (72-120 rpm). Those AP barrels are heavy for sure @ 22" being over 4.5# and fluted about 1/2# lighter. I have a CBI barrel that's a great shooter and lighter weight at 22" near 4#.
 
I may ask the guy if he's willing to go the Aero M5/proof route. He's pretty well off and I don't think money would be a holdup. I really liked that 22" build. Except for the weight.
I am still very curious about Adams Arms and POF. I need to contact Adams anyway as I have heard that their bolt will work in my G2. From what I gather it will but the cam pin is different. My G2 barrel is not overly large but it shoots very well. But it's a 308. I don't run a barrel hot or run long strings. Only in a multiple pig situation. It took me quite a while to find a powder and load for it but when I did it's done very well. it's been a good rifle.
If you don't mind I'd like to get the details of your build.
 
I may ask the guy if he's willing to go the Aero M5/proof route. He's pretty well off and I don't think money would be a holdup. I really liked that 22" build. Except for the weight.
I am still very curious about Adams Arms and POF. I need to contact Adams anyway as I have heard that their bolt will work in my G2. From what I gather it will but the cam pin is different. My G2 barrel is not overly large but it shoots very well. But it's a 308. I don't run a barrel hot or run long strings. Only in a multiple pig situation. It took me quite a while to find a powder and load for it but when I did it's done very well. it's been a good rifle.
If you don't mind I'd like to get the details of your build.
Which build as I have several in 260rem and 6.5creed?
 
All or pick 1
 

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pic w/4 from left and the individual or camo?

from left
AP upper and lower
Odin Ragnarök handguard and adjustable gb
pr 24" barrel (+2 gas) (this 1 is in 260rem)
lancer cf stock
cmc single stage 3.5# flat face trigger
radian chargehandle
cryptic bdg

camo
ap upper, lower, handguard and bcg (nitide)
magpul grip and stock (ap build kit)
cbi 22" barrel (standard rifle length gas)
geissele ssa-e? trigger

single pic
wmd guns "beast" upper and lower
brigand arms handguard
slr adjustable gas block
magpul prs stock
ap (nitride) bcg
tac-con trigger (241 or 3mr)
 
As Far as "smaller frames" ( midsize frames) go-- I hate them--- they tend to be a hybrid design of an lr308 mixed with ar15 -- BUT they are all proprietary and compatibility of parts is horrible -- i did one, and sold it as proprietary parts were always hard to get or just flat out not available

You can build lightweight large frame ar's pretty easy...my 308w weighs 5.8 pounds with 3-9 optic for $1000 Just gotta do some homework and search "ultralight" parts...and be willing to spend some cash to drop ounces. It's a numbers game so look at dropping grams and ounces-- it all adds up to pounds.

Look for titanium, magnesium, and carbon fiber parts. V7 sells small parts, tool craft has a ti bolt for a decent price, faxon has multiple profile barrels that shoot good. Smokes composites stocks, briggand arms handguards. It's another rabbit hole to fall down. Good luck.

Every part will add up so even the smallest thing matters when it comes to ultralight.

I probably could have dropped another 1/2 pound or more if i wanted to buck up with another $1-1500 for lighter parts
 
As Far as "smaller frames" ( midsize frames) go-- I hate them--- they tend to be a hybrid design of an lr308 mixed with ar15 -- BUT they are all proprietary and compatibility of parts is horrible -- i did one, and sold it as proprietary parts were always hard to get or just flat out not available

You can build lightweight large frame ar's pretty easy...my 308w weighs 5.8 pounds with 3-9 optic for $1000 Just gotta do some homework and search "ultralight" parts...and be willing to spend some cash to drop ounces. It's a numbers game so look at dropping grams and ounces-- it all adds up to pounds.

Look for titanium, magnesium, and carbon fiber parts. V7 sells small parts, tool craft has a ti bolt for a decent price, faxon has multiple profile barrels that shoot good. Smokes composites stocks, briggand arms handguards. It's another rabbit hole to fall down. Good luck.

Every part will add up so even the smallest thing matters when it comes to ultralight.

I probably could have dropped another 1/2 pound or more if i wanted to buck up with another $1-1500 for lighter parts
don't forget lithium (v7)
 
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