Shotgun reloading issue.

[Muddyboots]

Alliant Steel loads require Fed 209A Magnum primers. A load of 1.5oz is very heavy for 2 3/4" and the wad selection and spacers are critical for proper shot set back on ignition to hold column together for best density and accuracy.

Alliant has all sorts of loads for Steel on line. I would use their data over Lyman and they do list Hevy-Shot in their load data.

Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide

www.alliantpowder.com

The other place that will have all sorts of load data is Ballistic Products for TSS ETC.

 

[GUNNNN]

Alright, I ventured into shotgun reloading last year when I wanted to go the TSS route. Try and decrease the price per shot…although it's still something like $3.50 a pop when shooting 1.5oz out of a 12ga. I am having an issue with squib loads with certain hulls and so I'm coming here to ask what I can do.

First load: 2 3/4 AA hulls, 32grn of AL steel, 1.5oz TSS, 3 filler wads, Mylar wrap around shot, Fed 209 primer. This round it tight in the hull when reloading. I can see the bulge of the wad in the hull etc. it first every time. Pretty decent groups at 40 yds (96 pellets in head/neck and 236 pellets in 10" diameter circle).

Second load exact same but in Fed hulls. These load up much easier. Not tight. Everything seems to fit together perfect. But, the powder never ignites? It's always the same thing. Pull the trigger, a slight poof sound, $3.50 comes rolling out if the barrel and wad gets stuck half way down.

I've scratched my head on this for a few days now. Only difference is the hull (obviously) but how tight the components fit together. I'm assuming the tightness in the AA hulls keep everything together long enough to allow the powder to ignite. In the Fed hulls I assume the shot starts moving down the barrel too fast, dropping pressure, causing the flame to go out?

What am I missing here and how do I fix it? Do I need to get some 209Ms and try them? Is there s way to keep everything together longer so the powder can ignite? Just scrap all the fed bills and try to find more AA (only have s handful)?

Thanks!

Ryan

 

[GUNNNN]

These manuals can be purchased at Bucksrun sports check out their web sight

 

[Lenny Foffa]

By the way, It ok to check your powder charge every 10 or 15 rounds. Take the shell out and dump the powder on to you scale, and see how consistent the charge is or isn't. Its not that precise, even with a powder baffle, but I find in Ok for clays out of your thrower.

 

[Oldtime Shooter13]

Recipes for shotgun reloading are much different than pistol or rifle. I understand that finding loading data to tailor load is difficult to find, but I would not recommend venturing out into the unknown when it comes to shotgun reloading. I have reloaded shotgun for 30 years or more and if in can't find what I am looking for in manuals, I head to the internet now. Reload recipes are hull, powder, primer, wad specific and when you venture into mixing components you end up where you are at. Not all hulls, wads, powders and primers are equal in the shotgun reloading world.

 

[Ross1147]

Update for y'all.
So like most assumed it was the primers. I swapped over to the Fiocchi 616 and they all worked flawlessly. Assume the old Feds worked in the AA hulls because they were tapered hulls with non tapered wads, so it was a tight fit. The tight fit allowed the pressure to build enough to use the Feds. Feds are going to go up on the shelf as a display artifact now.
The gun hammers at 40, gobbler won't stand a chance. Took one shot at 60 and it was ok at best. I'm only using 9.5s, so in reality 50-60 is max anyway.
Thanks all for the advice, warnings, and pointers on where to go to find data!

Ryan

 

[AGGRO]

I choose to weigh each and every charge but I'm just a hunter that doesn't like bulges in my receiver.

 

[stringman]

Alright, I ventured into shotgun reloading last year when I wanted to go the TSS route. Try and decrease the price per shot…although it's still something like $3.50 a pop when shooting 1.5oz out of a 12ga. I am having an issue with squib loads with certain hulls and so I'm coming here to ask what I can do.

First load: 2 3/4 AA hulls, 32grn of AL steel, 1.5oz TSS, 3 filler wads, Mylar wrap around shot, Fed 209 primer. This round it tight in the hull when reloading. I can see the bulge of the wad in the hull etc. it first every time. Pretty decent groups at 40 yds (96 pellets in head/neck and 236 pellets in 10" diameter circle).

Second load exact same but in Fed hulls. These load up much easier. Not tight. Everything seems to fit together perfect. But, the powder never ignites? It's always the same thing. Pull the trigger, a slight poof sound, $3.50 comes rolling out if the barrel and wad gets stuck half way down.

I've scratched my head on this for a few days now. Only difference is the hull (obviously) but how tight the components fit together. I'm assuming the tightness in the AA hulls keep everything together long enough to allow the powder to ignite. In the Fed hulls I assume the shot starts moving down the barrel too fast, dropping pressure, causing the flame to go out?

What am I missing here and how do I fix it? Do I need to get some 209Ms and try them? Is there s way to keep everything together longer so the powder can ignite? Just scrap all the fed bills and try to find more AA (only have s handful)?

Thanks!

Ryan

I would call ballistic Products company in Minnesota, they sell TSS shot and should be able to answer your question. I have been loading shotgun shells for 50 years my guess is powder. TSS shot is not steel. maybe powder designed for steel is the wrong stuff regardless it should ignite with a bang even if wad pressure is low as long as you have good pressure on your hull crimp. I hope this helps.
.

 

[stringman]

I would call ballistic Products company in Minnesota, they sell TSS shot and should be able to answer your question. I have been loading shotgun shells for 50 years my guess is powder. TSS shot is not steel. maybe powder designed for steel is the wrong stuff regardless it should ignite with a bang even if wad pressure is low as long as you have good pressure on your hull crimp. I hope this helps.
.