Shotgun reloading issue.

[emp1953]

Update your primers. I've used old primers reloading pistol but those I had vacuum packed years ago. 209's are showing up on-line more and more. I've been seeing more Fiocci than anything else really. I snagged 10k of them when I saw them. Now I'm stuck using them when other mfg primers come available. Fiocci's are a tiny bit larger than the US mfg primers, so they stretch the american primer pockets. They function perfectly though. Just cant use american primers again in those hulls.

 

[twister]

Ballistic Products - Shotgunner Supplies

Ballistic Products - Shotgunner Supplies

www.ballisticproducts.com

These are some tss loads in there.

But it seems like you are blowing by the wad and loosing some pressure before it gets moving. add a nitro card under the wad over the powder.

 

[emp1953]

Are you using a progressive or a single-stage reloader? Out of my progressive I've had squibs. where the powder didn't drop. It becomes obvious in the next round or two where the drop tube dumps all that's in it filling the hull. The primer-only ignition leaves a different kind of residue on the hull. Fire a couple of hulls with just a primer and get a feel for what the hull looks like with only a primer going off.

 

[Bucklowery]

Some hulls are straight wall and some tapered so there are wads that match them and this is most likely your issue. Putting a straight wad in a tapered hull causes issues

Thanks

Buck

 

[Mike Matteson]

Different hulls needs different load. Follow published load data, exactly.

I have several PW 800 presses, and load for several different gauges. Read the reloading requirement. Use the hull, primers, powder, power piston that called for. The correct bushing for the powder requirement. There several reloading charts that can be downloaded from the net.
I repeat do not mix hulls, nor primers, and load what the manual calls our for.
There is crossover charts and special adpters for bushing in alot manufactures supplies. MEC generally has cross over bushing.
Back to reloading shotgun shells.
DO NOT MIX HULLS, PRIMERS, POWDER PISTON, OR VARY SHOT LOAD, DIFFERENT HULLS REQUIRE DIFFERENT ITEMS TO RELOAD WITH.
Older AA hulls are different than the newer type. They change to reduce the amount of powder require for there factory loads. So those require a different power piston
Here some info.
AGAIN DON'T MIX ITEMS.

 

[GUNNNN]

Alright, I ventured into shotgun reloading last year when I wanted to go the TSS route. Try and decrease the price per shot…although it's still something like $3.50 a pop when shooting 1.5oz out of a 12ga. I am having an issue with squib loads with certain hulls and so I'm coming here to ask what I can do.

First load: 2 3/4 AA hulls, 32grn of AL steel, 1.5oz TSS, 3 filler wads, Mylar wrap around shot, Fed 209 primer. This round it tight in the hull when reloading. I can see the bulge of the wad in the hull etc. it first every time. Pretty decent groups at 40 yds (96 pellets in head/neck and 236 pellets in 10" diameter circle).

Second load exact same but in Fed hulls. These load up much easier. Not tight. Everything seems to fit together perfect. But, the powder never ignites? It's always the same thing. Pull the trigger, a slight poof sound, $3.50 comes rolling out if the barrel and wad gets stuck half way down.

I've scratched my head on this for a few days now. Only difference is the hull (obviously) but how tight the components fit together. I'm assuming the tightness in the AA hulls keep everything together long enough to allow the powder to ignite. In the Fed hulls I assume the shot starts moving down the barrel too fast, dropping pressure, causing the flame to go out?

What am I missing here and how do I fix it? Do I need to get some 209Ms and try them? Is there s way to keep everything together longer so the powder can ignite? Just scrap all the fed bills and try to find more AA (only have s handful)?

Thanks!

Ryan

First off get some reloading specialty wads you can get them and a reloading data book for this tss shot and heavy 13 and 15 also. I also bet that your hulls are damp especially if you've picked them up at the range I had this problem with some I picked up while duck hunting. Some loads are primer specific to certain loads. The powder I like best is alliant steel or some loads call for alliant blue dot good luck I hope you get a bigen

 

[GUNNNN]

Alright, I ventured into shotgun reloading last year when I wanted to go the TSS route. Try and decrease the price per shot…although it's still something like $3.50 a pop when shooting 1.5oz out of a 12ga. I am having an issue with squib loads with certain hulls and so I'm coming here to ask what I can do.

First load: 2 3/4 AA hulls, 32grn of AL steel, 1.5oz TSS, 3 filler wads, Mylar wrap around shot, Fed 209 primer. This round it tight in the hull when reloading. I can see the bulge of the wad in the hull etc. it first every time. Pretty decent groups at 40 yds (96 pellets in head/neck and 236 pellets in 10" diameter circle).

Second load exact same but in Fed hulls. These load up much easier. Not tight. Everything seems to fit together perfect. But, the powder never ignites? It's always the same thing. Pull the trigger, a slight poof sound, $3.50 comes rolling out if the barrel and wad gets stuck half way down.

I've scratched my head on this for a few days now. Only difference is the hull (obviously) but how tight the components fit together. I'm assuming the tightness in the AA hulls keep everything together long enough to allow the powder to ignite. In the Fed hulls I assume the shot starts moving down the barrel too fast, dropping pressure, causing the flame to go out?

What am I missing here and how do I fix it? Do I need to get some 209Ms and try them? Is there s way to keep everything together longer so the powder can ignite? Just scrap all the fed bills and try to find more AA (only have s handful)?

Thanks!

Ryan

I didn't notice that you were using 40 year old primers, primers have changed in the last 40 years I'd say that you need some new primers too. Bucksrun is where I get my wads for steel shot and tss you can google them they're a legit outfit I've been buying from them for the last 30 years or so their wads are the best on the market for steel or tss shot

 

[GUNNNN]

I didn't notice that you were using 40 year old primers, primers have changed in the last 40 years I'd say that you need some new primers too. Bucksrun is where I get my wads for steel shot and tss you can google them they're a legit outfit I've been buying from them for the last 30 years or so their wads are the best on the market for steel or tss shot

Big fingers that should be 20 years not 30

 

[Moondoggie]

I'm no expert. I reload target and small game loads. Shot gun and rifle reloading are a lot different. Meaning different rules to the game. You're using two different hulls. That would mean to different recipes. I'm sure someone with more experience will be along here shortly.

Spot on!
You must not tinker with load data that is published with regards to shotshell reloading Like you can with metallic handloading. This time you have squibs, next time you may may too much pressure and explode your weapon (read…not good for operator of said weapon)

 

[AGGRO]

Some hulls are straight wall and some tapered so there are wads that match them and this is most likely your issue. Putting a straight wad in a tapered hull causes issues

Thanks

Buck

ding winner

 

[Firedad]

Just throwing in my $.02 worth. I don't know which Fed wads you're using, but most I have seen have a fiber base which can absorb moisture where as the AA wads are injection molded with a plastic base and tapered sides.
I have quite a few fairly old AA wads only once fired I would be glad to ship you a box to try if you can't find any locally?
I am planning to get out of the shotgun reloading. Just need to simplify my life at my age. Will be sending a bunch off to auction this summer.

Only a suggestion, but there is another forum I frequent that is always looking for donations for their youth program. There is a gentleman that repairs and refurbishes shotshell reloading equipment and then finds good homes to youth who are getting into the sport but family can't afford the gear. He asks what they plan to load and sends the presses packaged in the appropriate empty hulls.

 

[wasskeet]

Unless you're shooting them out of a Winchester 21, better stay with solid load data.

John Olin's Favorite Double Gun: The Winchester 21

The Winchester 21 was beloved by the late owner of Winchester, John Olin. He would not discontinue it despite the high cost of porduction.

www.outdoorlife.com

 

[nksmfamjp]

Spot on!
You must not tinker with load data that is published with regards to shotshell reloading Like you can with metallic handloading. This time you have squibs, next time you may may too much pressure and explode your weapon (read…not good for operator of said weapon)

Have you had those issues shotshell reloading?

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

A couple things here that haven't been mentioned... Steel is a rather fine/dense powder if I'm not mistaken. Fed shells do NOT like fine powders with their straight sides as they will allow powder migration into the wad and shot column. I'd use a flake powder if stuck on fed hulls... Rem and ww AA type hulls have a bit of taper that tends to keep fine powder where it belongs.
As to primers... I see it here a lot where someone asks if older components are good. It tells me your primers are good that they are working in win hulls. I'm shooting both Cheddite and OLD white box Win 209 primers in my handloads...
I've been burning a good bit of Longshot with a few other powders like WW Superlight also this last year in handloads. I'm out of spare hulls so I've got to shoot up a case for hulls when the weather breaks to play around a bit more.
As to load data, I'd stay to pressure tested data. Shotty's are a bit different than rifles/ pistols. They usually have what my Pops calls a Hot component. You mix things around too much and more than one thing can act as a hot component and send your pressures up a good bit. I watched one lightweight auto come apart as the gent loading stuffed the same load into different hulls; basically whatever he had on hand.