Shotgun reloading issue.

[Setters4life]

Find some other recipes and stick to what is listed. For heavy loads I use Blue Dot or LongShot and have never been disappointed.

 

[Rum River]

As others here have stated - for reloading of shotgun rounds it's important to follow the published data exactly. Ballistics Products are the go to people for data and components.

 

[Stonyman88]

Your serious, your primers are 40 years old, and when you pull the trigger all you get is poof, and shot runs out the barrel, I reload over 8,000 rounds a year of AA and Rem hulls, I can't remember the last time I had a miss fire, I use a ponsness warren loader and 209 fed's, clays powder and red dot, sounds like you need some new components, I usually use the same wads, not sure about what wads for steel shot. Get some new wads and primers, and maybe powder would also help. I would be careful of picking up hulls from a range, or make sure the are completely dry and in good shape. When you touch of powder, it burns, doesn't take much to make good powder go K Boom

 

[Orange Dust]

Alright, I ventured into shotgun reloading last year when I wanted to go the TSS route. Try and decrease the price per shot…although it's still something like $3.50 a pop when shooting 1.5oz out of a 12ga. I am having an issue with squib loads with certain hulls and so I'm coming here to ask what I can do.

First load: 2 3/4 AA hulls, 32grn of AL steel, 1.5oz TSS, 3 filler wads, Mylar wrap around shot, Fed 209 primer. This round it tight in the hull when reloading. I can see the bulge of the wad in the hull etc. it first every time. Pretty decent groups at 40 yds (96 pellets in head/neck and 236 pellets in 10" diameter circle).

Second load exact same but in Fed hulls. These load up much easier. Not tight. Everything seems to fit together perfect. But, the powder never ignites? It's always the same thing. Pull the trigger, a slight poof sound, $3.50 comes rolling out if the barrel and wad gets stuck half way down.

I've scratched my head on this for a few days now. Only difference is the hull (obviously) but how tight the components fit together. I'm assuming the tightness in the AA hulls keep everything together long enough to allow the powder to ignite. In the Fed hulls I assume the shot starts moving down the barrel too fast, dropping pressure, causing the flame to go out?

What am I missing here and how do I fix it? Do I need to get some 209Ms and try them? Is there s way to keep everything together longer so the powder can ignite? Just scrap all the fed bills and try to find more AA (only have s handful)?

Thanks!

Ryan

You need a different wad for the federal hulls. The problem is wad pressure. Use the AA hulls. If the fit is this tight back off on the pellets by a few. Don't change components in ss loads. Sounds like the aa load is fine. Also old and new hs aa hulls are different. If you are using old aa hulls change to the new hs hulls and the load will fit right.

 

[Mmac52280]

Problem is even new books have limited TSS data. I have a 5th edition Lyman handbook written in 20' and it includes lead, steel, bismuth, and hevi-shot. So no TSS. Finding data on it is hard. The wads I'm using actually came from a bunch of federal steel loads I cut apart (think COVID scarcity and I needed wads so I cut a bunch of Federal hulls). So the Fed hulls I'm using are fired hulls from the same batch of feds I got the wads from. Not 100% sure the powder they used was AL steel, but it looks exactly the same side by side. For 1 1/8oz of shot they used 34.6grns.
Now I assumed weight is weight when it comes to payload so I reduced it down to 32 grn (misspoke in my earlier post, checked my note book and edited first post) for 1.5oz of shot. Probably a dumb assumption but??
When looking at the Hevi-shot data (12g/cc vice 18g/cc) 32 grn is probably a little aggressive (1 1/8oz is the heaviest in a 2 3/4" case they list at 32grns with a 209A). So if anything I'd need to back off on charge, but that almost assuredly result in the same thing. The book does call for 209As for all loads though. Also 1.5oz is probably aggressive for a 2 3/4" hull. But 1 1/8oz is weak.lol
As for the primers they're just 209. But, they are 40 year old 209s. I do have a couple sleeves of Fiocchi 209s that I could try, those are probably only 35 years old.
I reload a lot of metallic wildcat cartridges so extrapolating load data isn't new. But if I'm barking up the wrong tree with shot shell reloading I'll back off. Did a lot of dumb things when I was younger when my dad gave us a 12 ga Reloader. We doubled charges, doubled shot, used wads we picked up from ranges, still didn't manage to blow any guns up(maybe 870s are bullet proof???) so I figured I'd be safe with an analytical approach?
Thanks.

Me thinks you missed the opportunity to buy that winning lottery ticket

 

[Chas1]

Different hulls needs different load. Follow published load data, exactly.

+1

 

[Lenny Foffa]

Different Hulls mean different Wads and Different Powder charge. I use an old Mec Device with a manual turntable for 12 ga. Been using Red Dot for over 40 years. One day I will join the 20th century!! I use a single stage Mec 650 for 20 gauge and another one for 28 gauge. All are just for clay target loads only. I purchase my game load, with copper or nickel-plated shot for pheasant/ and chucker . My Fausti 28 gauge O/U loves Fiocchi 28 gauge Golden Pheasant , 3/4 ounce load. Its a 1300 fps load that is perfect for hunting over dogs. ( Humble Opinion)

 

[Mallardhammer]

Your load in the AA hull is probably 15,000+psi. Shotgun data needs to be followed exactly. If you've searched hard and can't find the data for a load, it doesn't exist and shouldn't be loaded.

 

[ridgewalker]

Just throwing in my $.02 worth. I don't know which Fed wads you're using, but most I have seen have a fiber base which can absorb moisture where as the AA wads are injection molded with a plastic base and tapered sides.
I have quite a few fairly old AA wads only once fired I would be glad to ship you a box to try if you can't find any locally?
I am planning to get out of the shotgun reloading. Just need to simplify my life at my age. Will be sending a bunch off to auction this summer.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Different hulls needs different load. Follow published load data, exactly.

This is slightly funny to me….as most shotgun powder is thrown by bushings which throw all over the place! That said, find some published data. You may need to experiment with which bushing just trying some and checking by your scale. Pick the bushing that gets you close without exceeding the charge.

I think I'll pick up some 209A this week if the local store has any.

Good luck. I'm only aware of Cheddites anywhere in the USA, at least. I hope I'm wrong. I think they do fit though.

Get some Remington hulls, if you need some I have lots. It has to do with hulls and wad diameter.

Remington Gun Clubs and STS are the most likely to have data available!

 

[Kesgo20]

You sound like someone who knows just enough to be dangerous. As others have said get the proper components and load data and follow it. you might try MEC for load info or Ballistic Products Inc they have everything for shotshell reloading.

 

[TJH]

You usually can not use the same wad in a Federal hull as you use in a AA hull. Federal is a straight wall hull AA is a tapered wall hull. Follow the published data which will list the correct wad, powder, and primer for a specific hull, no substitutions and everything will work. I have been loading shot shells since 1964 and that has always worked for me.

 

[Wanashoot]

I used to load shotgun shells for dove hunting. I used the same powder and shot amounts for all shells. My loader was simple and cheap you had to change bushings to change powder or shot. I do remember that each brand of shell required a different wad. I had wads for AA from Winchester and wads for Remington Peters. All were plastic and all used a 209 primer. Never had any problems firing.

 

[Citified]

I originally used fiber wads like you but switched to the plastic ones that hold the shot in the upper part years ago. These plastic wads are hull specific but work better than the
Fiber or nitro card wads. They are not expensive and come in a bag of 250. I personally have never had a squib load with my shotgun. My primers are pretty old but I live in a drier climate. Their shelf life seems to be no issue.
The plastic wads simplify the reloading process and cost about the same Be sure you use the correct wad seating pressure on your reloads per the manual.