Setting zero for hunting rifle with turrets?

[44-40]

Here are the laws:

• Use an artificial light for hunting any wildlife, except raccoon, bobcat and opossum provided the light is not cast from or attached to a motor vehicle. This includes laser sights or any other sights which project a beam to the target, including scopes with electronic rangefinders and scopes that receive information from a rangefinder or any electronic device. This does not include battery operated sights which only light the reticle.

To me the key words are "sights", when they say laser sights to me that's a sight like a Crimson trace that's projecting a visible beam onto the target. A laser RF is not a sight. Neither is a kestrel. If that was the law you couldn't have a phone in your possession while hunting. Or a gps. Or a Inreach. And no SCOPES with rangefinders onboard or scopes that Bluetooth information (sig) from a RF.

Here is the electronics section:

• Hunt, locate, or scout for the purpose of hunting any wildlife with infrared or other night vision sight or equipment except trail cameras.

To me that's strictly referring to using NVG's or thermal for locating animals. It's a bit of a stretch to say you cant use a Kestrel because of that law.

A Krestrel has link and blue tooth, it can be linked to a wind meter and read wind speed changes on your phone, it may be able to linked to a rangefinder or scope with a range finder...some of which I'm not familiar with. I don't use my Krestrel for hunting, or take a rangefinder, which I used to used for LR varmints. They obviously don't want electronics involved in the big game hunt. I believe it also includes electronic game calls. Laws change yearly and sometimes in the middle of a season, it's shut down. I have no idea if a cell phone could be used illegally, ...maybe ...they watch you from concealment, through field glasses and gather information before approaching, big game, duck hunting or fishing, rabbit and coyotes. I been questioned by a game cops doing all these things.
Even took a guy rabbit hunting many yrs ago in January when you had to have a new hunting license, my new hunting partner didn't have one. Concealed in the brush a game officer ...watching. I let the guy borrow my shotgun...the cop gave him a ticket and told me he could take my shotgun & truck, even though I possessed a new hunting license, but allowed a person to hunt with me who did not, and provided him the use my shotgun...I was contributing to his crime. Never occurred to me to ask the guy if he had a hunting license, I made the mistake of assuminghe did ...but I was young then.
I would get official clarification if it was me.
Law enforcement is discretionary, don't want them in a bad mood, I saved the cop from getting shot with a shotgun that day, as he jumped out of concealment behind the tall sagebrush, a frightened jackrabbit ran out of the brush infront of him. My hunting campion threw the shotgun up to his shoulder intending to kill the rabbit, at the cops feet. Instantly I spotted the horrible situation and pulled the shotgun barrel down as the rabbit bolted just under foot of the cop. He spotted the situation too, and tried to jump back and to the side. The shotgun never went off as I was yelling the whole time...but the cop never officially thanked me... he informed me of the law, never took my shotgun, or my vehicle, and did not give me a ticket. The would be shooter got the ticket.
If the cop hasn't died of old age and is still alive, he knows the story... you're welcome trooper.

 

[Ckleeves]

A Kestrel can be linked to a RF and still be perfectly legal the way I interrupt the law. You however could NOT legally link a RF to a scope, Or use a system like the Burris eliminator.

Those laws aren't really that much different then some other western states. The sig BDX and Burris eliminator have been the subjects of many laws that I believe were put in place to curb the use of so called "smart scopes" which really didn't have anything to do with the BDX or eliminator.

 

[xsn10s]

The way I understand it is a rifle scope cannot have the ability to range or link to a electronic device such as a kestrel or rf. but this is with big game. I haven't found anything conclusive so far of this pertaining to non game animals. The same for thermals, cannot be used for big game, but not sure as far as non game. (For Oregon).

 

[epoletna]

Thinking out loud (on paper) here.

Some suggestions in this discussion that you should zero at different ranges. When I shot bench rest, I found myself obliterating the bullseye on a regular basis. So I cranked the dot up 2" and put a dot on the target 2" above the bullseye. Putting the crosshairs on that dot allowed me to obliterate the bullseye and still have an aiming point.

Then I had shoulder surgery and didn't shoot for 4-5 months. First match after recovery, I put two holes 2" above the bullseye before I remembered how I used to put a dot above the bull.

And here's the thing: most of us zero our hunting rifle at 100 yards to begin with, just to get the scope aligned with the bore. Then we move it out to longer ranges. Then after the hunting season is over, the rifle goes into the safe for at least 6 months.

How many of us remember where we left the crosshairs when we put the rifle in the safe? And how often do we take it out to the range just before the beginning of the season and start getting set up for the new season on the 100 yard range?

So when you see your first game of the season, do you have to stop and ask yourself if you are zeroed at 100, or 250, or 325? Maybe we should settle on a 100 yard zero and work from that unless we shoot a lot more often than I ended up shooting off the bench (monthly).

 

[xsn10s]

Anyone in here use a ballistics app, a ballistics drop card, or memorized their drops? I guess we can add a custom dial since that's what the op is going to use.

 

[David_h]

I have always been a hold over shooter and am now going to use a custom turret on my long range rifle and was wondering what zero to use, most shots are under 300 yds but want to bet able to shoot out to 700yds.

If going after elk or moose that's a big target and a farther zero might allow for point blank shots all the way to 250 yards. With a 200 yard zero you'll be about 6-7" low at 300 yards.

 

[Bob2650]

I still have and occasionally use my 1970s vintage optical rangerinder, the MK5 RangeMatic 1000 by Ranging. No electronics in those. They have significant limitations but are not fooled by something in front of or behind the target. At best, even a skilled operator can only get a range within +/- 25 yards at 500 yards and it is worthless at 1,000 yards because you can only get within +/- 100 yards at best and frequently much worse. Back then only a fool would try a shot on a game animal at 500 yards because it was so difficult to find the animal. Hunters who Lack the ability to stalk closer generally also lack tracking skills and most field craft in general.

 

[Jim’s Hunt]

I use 200 yd on my hunting rifles. Which have Leupold vx-3 CDs scopes. My mark-4 Leupold and my Burris XTR Pro I use 100 yd

 

[Taylorbok]

Thinking out loud (on paper) here.

Some suggestions in this discussion that you should zero at different ranges. When I shot bench rest, I found myself obliterating the bullseye on a regular basis. So I cranked the dot up 2" and put a dot on the target 2" above the bullseye. Putting the crosshairs on that dot allowed me to obliterate the bullseye and still have an aiming point.

Then I had shoulder surgery and didn't shoot for 4-5 months. First match after recovery, I put two holes 2" above the bullseye before I remembered how I used to put a dot above the bull.

And here's the thing: most of us zero our hunting rifle at 100 yards to begin with, just to get the scope aligned with the bore. Then we move it out to longer ranges. Then after the hunting season is over, the rifle goes into the safe for at least 6 months.

How many of us remember where we left the crosshairs when we put the rifle in the safe? And how often do we take it out to the range just before the beginning of the season and start getting set up for the new season on the 100 yard range?

So when you see your first game of the season, do you have to stop and ask yourself if you are zeroed at 100, or 250, or 325? Maybe we should settle on a 100 yard zero and work from that unless we shoot a lot more often than I ended up shooting off the bench (monthly).

Your shots should have been low if that's how you had it set up.
Also almost everyone is running adjustable turrets so set your zero at 100 and dial up to MPBR and then its easy to just slide back to your 100 yard zero when needed, finding out where your 100 yard zero should be as simple as looking at the turrets.

@xsn10s for hunting I have a dope card taped on the inside of my scope cap but I recently picked up a set of Sig 10k binos that will give me a firing solution in the HUD so that's the new way. I'm planning a mountain Elk hunt for this fall so I will likely carry my kestrel also, I want to be ready for 1000 yard shot if it presents itself

 

[xsn10s]

@xsn10s for hunting I have a dope card taped on the inside of my scope cap but I recently picked up a set of Sig 10k binos that will give me a firing solution in the HUD so that's the new way. I'm planning a mountain Elk hunt for this fall so I will likely carry my kestrel also, I want to be ready for 1000 yard shot if it presents itself

I'm green with envy. My point was that we all should know our zero. And most in here use at least a ballistics card taped on the stock so there's an idea of zero confirmation. And if a person doesn't check their zero and practice shooting prior to hunting than I really don't know what to say.

 

[epoletna]

Taylorbok:

You are right, and they were low. I misspoke (miswrote).

 

[xsn10s]

I have always been a hold over shooter and am now going to use a custom turret on my long range rifle and was wondering what zero to use, most shots are under 300 yds but want to bet able to shoot out to 700yds.

What zero do you normally use with this rifle? Probably the easy button is to use your normal zero and factor that in when you order your dial.

 

[Orange Dust]

Not necessarily. Possibly it could be considered a "temporary" zero but the scope settings nor the zero stop are not revised/changed for this new/temporary condition. Returning the scope to the previous "100 yd zero" (the actual zero on the turret) removes the temporary condition and no further adjustments are required.
I only temporarily change the scope setting when there is a quick shot probability. As in hunting a sendero or pipe line where a deer might quickly cross that area, stopping hopefully once for just a second. No time for really even range finding (that has already been done) and is part of the circumstances that dictate what amount of come up you dial into the scope.

This is what I do, so I consider it excellent advise. I may be biased, but neverless LOL

 

[LRNut]

I still have and occasionally use my 1970s vintage optical rangerinder, the MK5 RangeMatic 1000 by Ranging. No electronics in those. They have significant limitations but are not fooled by something in front of or behind the target. At best, even a skilled operator can only get a range within +/- 25 yards at 500 yards and it is worthless at 1,000 yards because you can only get within +/- 100 yards at best and frequently much worse. Back then only a fool would try a shot on a game animal at 500 yards because it was so difficult to find the animal. Hunters who Lack the ability to stalk closer generally also lack tracking skills and most field craft in general.

I did some consulting for Ranging in the late 80s. I suggested they make them white, because the black color absorbed heat and caused the glue holding the prism to expand, which caused errors. I painted mine white and used Acraglass to attach a small thermometer (about 1"). I also recommended they replace the screw used to align the images in the vertical plane with something you could operate with your thumb (I cemented an "L" shaped piece of coat hanger on mine). Finally, I recommended they expand the cell spacing, perhaps using an sliding device (that idea was shot down because anything collapsible would be prone to even more error).

Back then I used custom stadia wires (remember Precision Reticles?) to estimate range. I took that range, along with the Ranging 1000 range, and averaged the two. I shot a lot of caribou between 350 and 400, as well as two sheep at what I estimated was 360 or so. My longest shot was an antelope at what I estimated was 460 yards (the ranch owner was stunned I made that shot).

At the time I was in the Army and was familiar with handheld laser rangefinders (and at the time it had not been that long ago since the Yttrium Argon Gas (YAG) laser appeared on the M1, replacing the optical sights used on the M60 (just a giant version of the Ranging 1000 rangefinder)). I found a company in Florida that said they could make a laser rangefinder for $3000 but they had no marketing experience. I told them I knew just who could help. I contacted the president of Ranging (his first name was Tom but I have forgotten his last name) in Feb 1993 and pitched my idea. He replied, "Leica just announced at the SHOT show a binocular with a laser rangefinder. Its retail price will be $6000; there is absolutely no market for that."

I contacted Leica; they said Cabelas would be getting the first two devices sent to the US. I wrote a letter to Jim Cabela and asked if their 30 day money back guarantee would apply; he said yes. He also said they would be selling them for $4500 and if I wanted to order one, I would be first on the list.

This July 30 marks the 30 year anniversary of the day my Geovids were delivered. I still have them but no longer use them.

I often think what a huge blunder Ranging made not pursuing their own LR.

NOTE: I just Googled Ranging and see the company itself was inactively dissolved in 1986, but I can assure you they were around in the late 80s/early 90s.