Setting zero for hunting rifle with turrets?

[xsn10s]

This isn't about can you hit a target at 300 yards. This is about when you are zeroing how many variables are you adding to your system. And is your zero actually dead on at 300 or is it actually 1+ moa left at 300.

If you zero in a situation with no environmental pressure, and do it well. And then dial to 300 it's not an issue. I don't like to do it, but it's still an initial zero in a "vacuum" of no conditions. I'm talking about people that get on target at say 50/100 whatever and then do all their zeroing at 300. They end up chasing tails all over and zeroing for the day they are at the range. I've watched people do this and their zero is actually 1 moa left because they didn't realize they are zeroing for Tuesday may 8s wind condition.

Whether you set a zero at 100 yards or 2 something 3 something it doesn't matter. You'd better test it out to distance. And where I live there usually is wind. So i shoot in all weather conditions. If you don't then you decrease your chances of a hit or clean kill.

 

[xsn10s]

If you zero in a situation with no environmental pressure, and do it well. And then dial to 300 it's not an issue. I don't like to do it, but it's still an initial zero in a "vacuum" of no conditions. I'm talking about people that get on target at say 50/100 whatever and then do all their zeroing at 300. They end up chasing tails all over and zeroing for the day they are at the range. I've watched people do this and their zero is actually 1 moa left because they didn't realize they are zeroing for Tuesday may 8s wind condition.

If a person has that much difficulty zeroing then they probably shouldn't be shooting at game until they can shoot at those distances in wind.

 

[xsn10s]

I should have said that I'm shooting 300 weatherby with 210 gr hand loads at 3000 muzzle velocity.

Which 210 gr bullet?

 

[SteveBurton]

100 yard zero on all of my rifles and dial from there.

 

[Baker Alvin]

There's no reason to zero at anything other than 100y regardless of how you hunt.

And shoot other ranges to see the rise or drop at those ranges 150-200-300-400, anything in between or beyond. the resalts may surprise you.
I did it for several of my calibers and got a real eye opener. I usually go for top center of bullseye.

 

[Huntslow]

My experience has been that most shots that "must" be taken quickly are at ranges of 200 yards or less. This make a 100 or yard zero very viable. The old "standard" of 2 inches high at 100 yards works very well for most cartridges. Also most ranges have 100 yard targets. I agree with the common comment here of doing all your rifles the same.

 

[bultinkle]

I think that I've seen you say several times about "Not" zeroing @ ranges over 100…..


I can agree……somewhat! Here's what I do, tell me where I'm in error!

I do my initial load development @ 100 yards. If the load looks promising…..I then shoot that load at 300 yards (my home range maximum). In my mind, this will "help" determine the loads long range potential! I also zero @ 300…..a distance decided upon long before we purchased a range finder.

You mentioned, environmental as a zeroing issue. With having a backyard range…..We have the opportunity to do our range work, load development and zeroing during absolute perfect conditions. If less than perfect conditions….we have dozens of other things to do around the place! In my thought process, "IF" we can shoot good groups at 300 and adjust accordingly, I think that there will be "less" error at longer ranges than with the 100 yard zero!

I think you have a better chance of noticing that you're off in mechanical zero if you're paying close attention and shooting adequate group sizes. But if you're doing those at 100 I don't think there is any difference.

I also think that with the 300 yard zero…..it helps minimize/negate some of the potential error in the dial-up!

I could see if your scope doesn't track true to it's graduations the less input change you're asking it to make the less it's going to be not perfect. However I personally wouldn't be using a scope I was at all concerned would have tracking error to shoot a live animal… or a steel plate.

We got very comfortable with this system, by using it for nearly 30 years. So, why not continue to use a zero we were comfortable with…..then use the range finder and dial-up for the longer shots. And as mentioned, it affords us the ability to use a "zero stop" turret to take us beyond a range at which we would shoot big game!

Not trying to be argumentative…..just trying to understand theoretical negatives with my system!

Thanking you in advance for your attempts to enlighten me! memtb

I'm not an enlightened, I have tried the long zero and don't care for it. To me it sacrifices precision at all ranges for convenience that I don't think actually exists to me. If it works for you, and you are confident in your system I probably would not want you to change. Life is full of options and finding the one you like as long as it works is one of the best available routes we have.

Perhaps one day I'll find a scenario where I wish I had zeroed for mpbr. Considering all my dial able rifles are zeroed for 100 from comp to hunting and I like everything being the same I don't think it will happen, but I am not so arrogant as to say anything is impossible!

 

[bultinkle]

Whether you set a zero at 100 yards or 2 something 3 something it doesn't matter. You'd better test it out to distance. And where I live there usually is wind. So i shoot in all weather conditions. If you don't then you decrease your chances of a hit or clean kill.

If a person has that much difficulty zeroing then they probably shouldn't be shooting at game until they can shoot at those distances in wind.

I have never implied anyone should not test their rifle at distance, I don't know how you inferred that but to be clear I don't think it.

I regret getting into this nonsense at this point. One day I'll learn. I just hope OP practices his choice.

 

[Ckleeves]

I always go with the multi-range zero by using that thing sticking off the top of my scope. But it starts at 100 yards.

If you need to verify zero you can always find a spot to shoot 100 yards.

If you need a 200 yard zero you can go click-click-click-click.

If you want a MPBR zero you can just dial whatever you need based off your dope without having to set a target at 288 yards to try to sight in on.

 

[xsn10s]

I have never implied anyone should not test their rifle at distance, I don't know how you inferred that but to be clear I don't think it.

I regret getting into this nonsense at this point. One day I'll learn. I just hope OP practices his choice.

I'm talking about people that get on target at say 50/100 whatever and then do all their zeroing at 300. They end up chasing tails all over and zeroing for the day they are at the range. I've watched people do this and their zero is actually 1 moa left because they didn't realize they are zeroing for Tuesday may 8s wind condition.

I think you're making this much harder than it is. That's just my opinion. Like I said earlier a person could zero at 100 yards. Then adjust up for whatever zero and then test at that point blank zero range. It's not that hard. If a person "chases their tail" at 300 yards or whatever range due to wind heading one direction and then another direction a different day then they just don't have the knowledge or skills to be shooting long distance. And regardless of what range you zero at imo you need to confirm at distances you plan to hunt at. At least that's what I do. And if you read some of my earlier posts I told the OP to do whatever works best for him. I'm not sure what the issue is lol.

 

[xsn10s]

When I dial I typically set at 100 yards. But when hunting and I may get a fast shot, or more likely, from 0-300 yards I set the appropriate zero for a point blank shot. That way I can pull up and aim dead on and be within +/- so many inches depending on the vital zone size of my prey. For a custom dial I think that's what I would do. Much the same when I only use a reticle for holdovers. For dialing while using a ballistics app I set 100 yard zero. Either way is fine so pick one that works easiest for you.

 

[FlGunner]

In my experience I have used 100 yd zero. Not saying any others are wrong. I think you should use what you're comfortable with. I use a kestrel with applied ballistics and also have a vortex Fury 5000 with the applied ballistic solver. I know going from sea level to mountains out west 9-10k' I haven't had any issues hitting too 700-800 yds (my comfortable range) . I do recalibrate both when I get out there and that's the key…validate and calibrate lol. And like others have said, a 200 or 300 yd zero works just fine as long as you account for it in your solver. I would dial up a minute or two depending on what I was doing in case a quick opportunity came.

 

[memtb]

If we were shooting Prairie Dogs at close range I'd consider a 100 yard zero…..but, who shoots Prairie Dogs at close range, so, my 300 yd. zero would/could still work.

If it's a big game animal at long range that is not spooked, we can always find the time to range the animal.

If it's a big game animal at moderately close range (under 400 yards) that is spooked or moving toward cover…..time is of the essence! I will use that time to be setting up on shooting sticks…..not messing around with a range finder! We are at maximum height above the crosshairs at around 170 yards (which most anyone should guesstimate fairly accurately), we're less than 6" above …..you merely hold a bit low! If the big game animal appears to be quite distant, and you do not have time to range the animal….you merely hold a bit high, as at 400 yards we're only about 9 3/4" low. Our rule "hold on hair….never high"! With that "rule" in mind, on a big game animal misjudged and closer than thought…..you will still be in the kill zone!

This system has served me well …..even on coyotes out to just under 300 yards without ranging. Obviously, ranging is great …..if you have time! memtb

 

[bamban]

Hmm. I'd like to see some people with rifles zeroed at 300 toss up a paper target at 300 yards and shoot 10 rounds at it and post the pic. No sighters.

It is done several hundred times a year in Excellence In Competition, aka. LEG matches.

The 3rd stage of 500 point aggregate of no sighter match is the prone rapid fire. Starting position is standing. Targets go up, drop to prone, charge the rifle, shoot 10 rounds in 70 seconds with mandatory magasine change, 2 and 8 or five and five.

X ring is 3 inches, 10 ring is a generous 7 inches. A bunch of 100s are shot, but 10X cleans are rare. Seen a few 8Xs, and 9Xs cleans. I personally never shot 10X cleans, but a handful of 8X cleans with the M14.

Even in the 800 point aggregate, the prone rapid fire 2nd string of 10 shots of the 20 shot match is shot without sighters.