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Scope Not Level With My Action

The easiest and most effective scope alignment method I prefer is to first, level the rifle either off the action rails if using a conventional stock, or the bubble level on my MPA Chassis. Next, I will project the reticle on my wall mounted plum line by shining a light into the front(objective) lens in the scope and align the projected reticle with the plum line. Once aligned, torque the rings and set the scope mounted bubble level(not necessary with chassis mounted bubble level). Even with the top tier scopes, turret tops and reticle alignment should not be assumed to be true. Actual shooting/tall test alignment has proven to be 100% using this method. If the bubble is centered and the reticle plum, the bullet will fly true.....
 
The other thing that can drive you nuts is that even if you do have the reticle plumb, you can end-up second-guessing yourself when you shoulder the rifle on your cheek weld because it will often still look canted and you end-up chasing it all over the place.
I get that very thing, too. I make every effort to do the tightening of the ring screws slowly and with an equal gap between the upper and lower rings. A FAT wrench really helps to torque the screws evenly, which I believe helps to get the reticle level. If it's level after all these protracted efforts, your eye can see it. If it isn't, your eye can also see it...
 
Who is the manufacturer of that rifle and what is its model name, please? Thank you...
 

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Searched DTS SRS. Everything out-of-stock, and I mean everything. Pictures of the products are also out-of-stock. To what is this world coming?
 
You're getting a bit of roll when you tighten-down the upper rings. I've had this happen, too. I've wondered if the turret on the top of the scope is perfectly level. All we can do is assume that it is unless we can really see that it's not. I use the Wheeler Engineering Professional Reticle Leveling System-- the same one that's used at the big Scheels in Sparks, NV. If I tighten the ring screws just right in an alternating & opposite sequence, I can usually get the rings tight and not roll the reticle. Usually-- but not every time. If the scope rolls, I have to start over and pre-load a bit of roll into where I set the scope before beginning to tighten the ring screws. It can be very frustrating. The human eye can resolve 1/80 of an inch at 12 inches. It's a good possibility that you'll see your reticle being tilted if it truly is. If it is, you'll see it on your targets...
Exactly what I do. Warne rings, since split, are tougher.
 
The easiest and most effective scope alignment method I prefer is to first, level the rifle either off the action rails if using a conventional stock, or the bubble level on my MPA Chassis. Next, I will project the reticle on my wall mounted plum line by shining a light into the front(objective) lens in the scope and align the projected reticle with the plum line. Once aligned, torque the rings and set the scope mounted bubble level(not necessary with chassis mounted bubble level). Even with the top tier scopes, turret tops and reticle alignment should not be assumed to be true. Actual shooting/tall test alignment has proven to be 100% using this method. If the bubble is centered and the reticle plum, the bullet will fly true.....
This is what I do as well. Never an issue and done in 5 minutes.
 
You're getting a bit of roll when you tighten-down the upper rings. I've had this happen, too. I've wondered if the turret on the top of the scope is perfectly level. All we can do is assume that it is unless we can really see that it's not. I use the Wheeler Engineering Professional Reticle Leveling System-- the same one that's used at the big Scheels in Sparks, NV. If I tighten the ring screws just right in an alternating & opposite sequence, I can usually get the rings tight and not roll the reticle. Usually-- but not every time. If the scope rolls, I have to start over and pre-load a bit of roll into where I set the scope before beginning to tighten the ring screws. It can be very frustrating. The human eye can resolve 1/80 of an inch at 12 inches. It's a good possibility that you'll see your reticle being tilted if it truly is. If it is, you'll see it on your targets...
 
I too have found the scope rolling when I tighten down the rings. What I have found "really" works is once the scope is in place and the screws slightly tightened, I use a couple of long pieces of masking tape and run it from the stock, over the scope and then onto the other side of the action onto the stock. I try to tape a couple of places on the scope before I tighten the scope ring screws, the scope "doesn't" move/roll at all!! Once the scope is taped into position, and before I tighten everything up I check to make sure everything is still level and hasn't moved.
 
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