HRM Johnny
Well-Known Member
k9txs,
Thanks for the links!
Johnny
Thanks for the links!
Johnny
Scope bedding?
- Thread starter markuswallus
- Start date
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marchboom
Well-Known Member
Burris Signature Rings. Solves all these problems, allows for scope adjustment within the rings and won't mark up the scope. They also have a LOT of holding power.
I know they're not the expensive "precision" rings that some other manufactures make but they work great.
I know they're not the expensive "precision" rings that some other manufactures make but they work great.
I read an article about a gunsmith who mounted the barreled action in a jig on his mill that was very true and level in all axis, installed the base and rings and then cut the rings with a ball mill. H e would then install the scope which he counted clicks stop to stop and centered the reticle in the scope based on that. He claim that he was rarely more than .25-.5 off at initial zeroing at the range. That's a big claim unless he did all of this after all of his finish work and never removed the base or rings. I can see that the receiver would likely be very level and leveling the scope relative to plumb should be very true as well. I used to always lap rings but I bed all of mine now, it's just too simple a process not to. I want my scope free of lateral or vertical stresses when mounted, I also lightly chamfer or round the edges of the bedding compound after it's cured. Never tried it Warne vertical split rings though I would be interested to see if someone has and what issues they found if any.
I apply two coats of shoe polish to the receiver and the base. Then apply a THIN layer of the bedding compound of your choice (I use JBW) to the base, attach the base and lightly tighten the screws and clean up the excess compound. I let it sit overnight and then torque the base to spec.
I blast the bottom of the rail and use release agent on the receiver and screws, assembly lightly so you don't flex the base, clean the excess with acetone and q-tips and let it sit long enough to set. Once it's pretty hard but not fully cured I take the base off and clean the screw holes in receiver and base
I've decided to bed both the rail to the action and the scope to the rings on my rifle. It's funny, I asked 5 different gunsmiths in the area about doing this for me and they all gave answers like, "that's not the industry standard", "you don't need to do that if you buy decent equipment", "nobody does that, but if that is what you want, we can do it." I did finally find a guy that said he beds all his rails to the action on scopes that he mounts for customers. Looks like I'll be doing this myself. As L.Sherm pointed out, you are making alot of assumptions about your action, rail and rings if you just mount everything as is. Id rather remove as many variables as possible especially since the process is so easy. Thanks everyone for your insight on this. I definitely learned alot.
Some good advice on bedding the rail to the action but I seldom find it necessary to hone the rings. I semi-tighten the rings to the rail and assure they are slid forward in the rail groove. Then tighten the scope rings onto the scope and they will easily square with the scope tube since they were only lightly tightened to the rail. Then loosen the rings from the rail and epoxy bed the rings to the rail with releasing agent on the rail only simi-tightening the rings to the rail once again (make sure the rings are slid forward once again on the rail). When epoxy is cured fully tighten rings to the rail and they will not bind on the scope since squared prior to bedding. If purchasing $15 rings from eBay always hone and bed to scope since probably out of round. I have found good rings generally tighten well to scope without honing but if I hone rings I like to bed the rings to the scope since you have the added benefit of covering the exposed aluminum
Deputy819
Well-Known Member
Bruce Treloar
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2017
- Messages
- 182
I lap and bed everything with epoxy . Maker A makes the receiver, B makes the mount, C makes the scope so it's almost impossible to make them all fit perfectly. I make the stock based on multi layered carbon to aircraft specifications It will always keep point of impact unless you throw it out of a plane.
