Bedding the scope mount

[Old Rooster]

Some Rem 700's are pretty bad across the top and bedding the rail fills in the voids.

I have installed many rails for myself and friends and none have been a fit without bedding yet.Maybe a custom action's but all factory actions I have put rails on needed bedding.
Easy to do but like ShtrRdy said the worst I have seen were the Remington's and Savage's.

 

[victor3ranger]

The video link in #15 is excellent and should answer all the questions about bedding a scope base. It's well worth the watch.

Yep

 

[victor3ranger]

Thanks everyone for your advice and information

 

[DarryH]

Gunsmith did mine also. Base and rings are as true as can be. Barrel cryo treated. Action blueprinted and trued. Pillar bedded. Screws torqued to smith's instructions. Dont ask for specifics. Done a long time ago. I'd have to did pull my records to remember most of the work. Can't even tell you the gunsmith right now. To many toys!!

 

[Philward]

To just bed the rings alone here is a video:

I just tried this, total fail. I was bedding a 280 Rem Mtn rifle and while the action was setting up I thought why not do the scope rings to scope. I had some leftover JB weld that was still pliable. Waxed up the scope and smeared JB in the bottom rings, set in place, and tightened down the top rings. Excess squeezed out and I cleaned it up. Then I was worried that I might damage the scope trying to get it out so I tried to remove when I thought it had setup enough, figuring the wax would let it release without issue. It pulled the JB apart when I got it out so put it back in. After things set up I couldn't get the scope out until I was removing the action with a few raps with a striking device and the scope pops loose. JB was stuck to the scope and the rings. Had to scrape it all off.

 

[Sealesniper]

Yes. It should be done for sure if you want absolute accuracy, or are shooting heavy scopes on light weight guns of heavy caliber.

 

[Darryle]

Here's the method I use

Scope Base Bedding

 

[victor3ranger]

Here's the method I use

Scope Base Bedding

I read the link, how much release agent (wax) did you put on the screws? A lot??

 

[Caulder]

I read the link, how much release agent (wax) did you put on the screws? A lot??

I'm not the guy who posted, but IMO you would wax the crap out of them as a precaution, but still not put jb weld or any other bedding material anywhere where it would get on the threads.

 

[UncleDano]

I researching more than anything, was cruising the net trying to help a friend of mine find a possible solution for his troubles of not getting a tight 3 shot group from his 300 PRC.
He is doing the load development and when he is pretty close the rifle will shoot the first two rounds almost in same hole then the third will move out about a inch

What do you mean "when he is pretty close"?
"First two in one hole, third will move out about an inch": sounds like normal barrel heat-up and a possible barrel bedding issue. No evidence the scope base is the problem here.

 

[UncleDano]

I use a couple drops of removable locktite between the action and the mount. and on the screws

Loctite is for threads, not for mounting surfaces.

 

[Darryle]

I read the link, how much release agent (wax) did you put on the screws? A lot??

I use McLube 1700, spray the slightly warmed screws and allow them to cool, then repeat the process again. I usually spray them twice, the heating process was adapted from work. We use release agents and preheat the tooling before applying the release agents, the cooling process pulls the release into the pores of the metal.

Whether it works for the screws or not, I haven't a clue, but I haven't stuck a screw or action using the process.

 

[victor3ranger]

What do you mean "when he is pretty close"?
"First two in one hole, third will move out about an inch": sounds like normal barrel heat-up and a possible barrel bedding issue. No evidence the scope base is the problem here.

I came across the information about bedding scope base's when researching the net . He called Christensens yesterday and sent pictures of all his groups and they are having him send it back so they can look over the rifle

 

[victor3ranger]

I use McLube 1700, spray the slightly warmed screws and allow them to cool, then repeat the process again. I usually spray them twice, the heating process was adapted from work. We use release agents and preheat the tooling before applying the release agents, the cooling process pulls the release into the pores of the metal.

Whether it works for the screws or not, I haven't a clue, but I haven't stuck a screw or action using the process.

Good information, thank you