School me on Suppressors?

[naja302]

I have several thunder beast suppressors and have been putting their CB brake on all guns I've put together over the last few years anticipating getting the suppressors. First: get the 7. The vast majority of your suppression comes in something like chambers 4 and 5 (the one's that the 7 has and the 5 doesn't) I haven't used a 5 but from what I've heard it's definitely a "use earplugs" suppressor.

I also have a Christensen arms 300 RUM with that same radial brake you are talking about.
The CB brake is very effective alone and might be just as effective as that one (in my experience). I also believe the recoil is more greatly reduced with the suppressor on...it's basically a giant brake (obviously it doesn't allow air ventilation out the sides ...but recoil is still greatly reduced) I also saw some accuracy increases and I would attribute that to a much more controlled rifle during firing. It's just not a violent explosion anymore.

It seems like a no-brainer to me that if you're going to use the suppressor on more than one rifle it should be the over CB brake design...watch the thunder Beast video where he shoots a group at 700 something yards taking the suppressor off and replacing it between each shot...very accurate and repeatable.

if you're going to torque one onto a barrel and never remove it, the I guess you could do DT.

seriously call thunder beast and ask them, I find it hard to believe they would even consider direct thread in your case.

I have installed several of these brakes with the washers and it works just fine but isn't very sexy I do have one timed by a gunsmith and that's a much better way to go but also a pain to go accomplish.

 

[ericbc7]

it seems to me that a with a taper brake you are direct threading the brake to the barrel then attaching the suppressor to the brake. While direct threading suppressor to barrel eliminates one connection. Less tolerance stacking with one connection. I rarely shoot unsuppressed anymore so the brake just adds cost for me.

 

[Tangent]

Tangent makes some great points. My opinion is that properly machined muzzle threads/shoulder and a properly machined thread over brake will essentially become one with each other and will be a semi permanent installation when used with the appropriate thread locking compound.

Now the suppressor can be moved to different rifles or removed for cleaning and will have a repeatable mount to index on and stay tight once its installed. The taper interface is superior to direct thread in every way in this application.

Not to be a dick here man, but your opinion is wrong and physics controls. The mount and barrel do not become one. A brake mount will not make up for poorly machined threaded muzzle, and the brake just adds another potential error as everything machined has a tolerance. Now chances are you won't see an error with the brake as long as your muzzle threads are all jacked-up. But again, the taper mount associated with the brake is not superior since the mount ultimately interfaces with the threaded muzzle.

I've got an older 30P-1 that now has thousands of rounds through it. It is direct mount, and the POI is 100% repeatable. I take the can off after every shooting session, and I've used it to shoot out to 1,400 yards many times - never had to check for POI shift and DOPE is repeatable at those distances. I've also got a relatively new Ultra-7 that is also direct mount. Same thing, POI is repeatable, and I've used it out to 1,400 yards without a hitch.

The taper may lock up tighter between the mount and the can, but that does not mean better. Many guys experience inadvertently pulling the brake from their rifle because the can locks up too tight. The real benefit of the CB mount is that you can easily shoot with a brake with the suppressor off. If you like that option, than the CB is a great choice. If you don;t like that option, you will waste $125 on a mount for every gun you own.

 

[Tulsa Reiner]

My CA ridgeline 300wsm has 5/8-24 thread and currently has a radial style titanium brake. The sound and blast is very loud but it makes the gun very shootible from the recoil point, as a hunter I would love to have less recoil and less noise. How well do suppressors work at reducing kick compared to a radial brake? I assume I could get a 30cal can and switch back and forth from my 300wsm and my 6.5 cm they are same thread? Would you recommend the can that screws onto the brake or the direct mount where can screws onto barrel threads? I have never shot a suppressor and know very little about them, looking at the thunder beast ultra 5".
Do you really even notice recoil in a hunting situation? I don't. Not even when I shot my brown bear with a .375 H&H magnum

 

[Smurky]

I read through this quickly nothing wrong with direct thread or using the OEM brake. I found I wanted to change back and forth and instead of using the OEM brake I bought an Area 419 Hellfire self timing brake and then the adapter for the suppressor I use, SilencerCo Omega. I've had my suppressor a long time and I believe there are others out now equal and possibly superior, that would be a personal choice. The Area 419 brake is a common brake in PRS shooting, the pulse is different but with the small calibers used in PRS shooting I don't have any issue seeing bullet strikes. I live in WI and sometime shoot in IL and have to use the brake in IL and it makes it easy to make the change. Area 419 has a 4 port brake, the Sidewinder. Good Luck with your purchase.

 

[tt35]

I took three shots with my threaded/QD rifle after picking up my suppressor and decided ALL of my rifles were going to get threaded! The QD has been good for moving the can among my rifles. All of my rifles shoot at least as well with the can as without. Downsides of QD? Weight and cost. You'll be so happy to shoot suppressed that you won't worry too much about which you chose!

 

[JAYgs8163]

I take my Surefire cans on and off and have never had issues with poi shift after attaching back.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Not to be a dick here man, but your opinion is wrong and physics controls. The mount and barrel do not become one. A brake mount will not make up for poorly machined threaded muzzle, and the brake just adds another potential error as everything machined has a tolerance. Now chances are you won't see an error with the brake as long as your muzzle threads are all jacked-up. But again, the taper mount associated with the brake is not superior since the mount ultimately interfaces with the threaded muzzle.

I've got an older 30P-1 that now has thousands of rounds through it. It is direct mount, and the POI is 100% repeatable. I take the can off after every shooting session, and I've used it to shoot out to 1,400 yards many times - never had to check for POI shift and DOPE is repeatable at those distances. I've also got a relatively new Ultra-7 that is also direct mount. Same thing, POI is repeatable, and I've used it out to 1,400 yards without a hitch.

The taper may lock up tighter between the mount and the can, but that does not mean better. Many guys experience inadvertently pulling the brake from their rifle because the can locks up too tight. The real benefit of the CB mount is that you can easily shoot with a brake with the suppressor off. If you like that option, than the CB is a great choice. If you don;t like that option, you will waste $125 on a mount for every gun you own.

You make some great points and I respect your opinion on the subject. I base my opinion on my own personal experience and I'll continue using taper mounts because they've proven superior in my personal experience. I've seen plenty of QD mounted cans go flying down range and I've seen more than my share of DT cans come loose. A properly installed brake mount, with the appropriate thread locking compound, isn't coming off with the can . When used with the appropriate anti seize the can doesn't get stuck to the mount.

I've come to these conclusions based on my own experiences with good and bad machine work, experimenting with different thread locking compounds , baffle strikes, cans flying down range and coming loose or seizing.

 

[rustyshackleford]

Not to be a dick here man, but your opinion is wrong and physics controls. The mount and barrel do not become one. A brake mount will not make up for poorly machined threaded muzzle, and the brake just adds another potential error as everything machined has a tolerance. Now chances are you won't see an error with the brake as long as your muzzle threads are all jacked-up. But again, the taper mount associated with the brake is not superior since the mount ultimately interfaces with the threaded muzzle.

I've got an older 30P-1 that now has thousands of rounds through it. It is direct mount, and the POI is 100% repeatable. I take the can off after every shooting session, and I've used it to shoot out to 1,400 yards many times - never had to check for POI shift and DOPE is repeatable at those distances. I've also got a relatively new Ultra-7 that is also direct mount. Same thing, POI is repeatable, and I've used it out to 1,400 yards without a hitch.

The taper may lock up tighter between the mount and the can, but that does not mean better. Many guys experience inadvertently pulling the brake from their rifle because the can locks up too tight. The real benefit of the CB mount is that you can easily shoot with a brake with the suppressor off. If you like that option, than the CB is a great choice. If you don;t like that option, you will waste $125 on a mount for every gun you own.

The real advantage to a taper is that your suppressor won't back off. For a hunting rifle it's not a likely scenario but shooting a PRS match or on an AR it definitely happens. I've seen it and experienced it with DT cans. Doesn't happen with a properly affixed quality QD mount or tapered brake interface.

Also I'd definitely get the 7. I'm about to have a surefire 300 TI in jail and since I'll have that I'll probably do a Ultra 5 for hunting only. Another advantage to the brake mount is TB can do a face mount brake on barrels too small for proper 5/8's threads.

 

[WeiserBucks]

To be clear, I think this is an excellent discussion and hopefully we can all learn something here.

 

[gareyg]

All this direct thread stuff is hilarious. Look around, all of the critical joints in the world are taper interface. Aircraft turbines? Taper interface. Tie rods on big rigs? Taper interface. Worlds largest industrial pump seals? Taper interface. Worlds largest electricity generators? Taper interface. Wheel bearings? Taper interface. Worlds largest mining crushers? Taper interface. Suppressor? Taper interface.

..chucks for pretty much all precision CNC machining equipment, machine lathes, etc.. taper interface (;

 

[6.5-300 BEE]

Thought the thread was on suppressors NOT brakes ???? Suppressors are wonderful brakes are horrible. Many outfitters will not allow brakes.

I have 3 "cans" and like them all. One example on 6.5 Creedmore. Reduces noise somewhat, reduces recoil a lot !

 

[MOBE]

I have a Christensen arms ridgeline in 300 wsm and run a silencerco Omega with the radial break. It quiets it a lot!!! And cuts down recoil dramatically. Also use the same Omega on a 6.5 PRC. They are entertaining to shoot as they are pretty quiet... I direct thread, no torque other than hand tight, It's never came loose or had any issues with it. You can go back to a break if you want. Just have to readjust you point of impact. Nothing fancy

 

[Craig Miller]

Forgive me if I missed it but there is one advantage of the thread over brake mounts that I don't believe has been mentioned. They act as sacrificial blast baffles that are replaceable.

All suppressors experience some level of flame cutting of the blast baffle. How much depends on multiple factors (powder capacity of case, length of barrel, blast baffle material, etc.) but it happens. If you have ever taken a good look at the blast baffles inside multiple suppressors with extensive use after they have had the carbon and crud cleaned away, you can see the effects. Worst blast baffle erosion I have ever personally seen was on a direct thread rifle suppressor shared between several magnum caliber rifles. It was brought into the dealer when the owner complained that accuracy had deteriorated over time. I happened to be there after it came out of cleaning and before the owner picked it up. The dealer's observation was that cleaning it would probably help with the accuracy but the level of erosion probably meant it would never be as accurate as it was when new due to the disruption of the gas flow caused by the erosion. (This makes sense to me but I'm not a physicist.)

I own multiple .22lr, pistol-caliber, and rifle-caliber suppressors. My current rifle-caliber suppressors are all QD. They use flash hider mounts on some rifles and brake mounts on others based on cartridge and barrel length. None, however, are considered "precision rifle" suppressors even though one of them is currently used on one of my hunting rifles. I'm presently in the market for another rifle suppressor and, after talking to several manufacturers and getting feedback from quite a few owners, I have decided it will be a TBAC Ultra 7 using the Compact Brake mounts.

All of this is just my opinion and worth exactly what you paid for it.