nicholasjohn
Well-Known Member
I have the 21st century guides.
Shep
Thanks. Those guys make a lot of neat stuff for shooters. I'm probably going to get some mandrels from them soon.
I have the 21st century guides.
Shep
…. I still prefer cr-10. Use a nylon brush 2 blue diameters smaller than what you are cleaning.
Great info, could you please explain by what you mean when you said " 2 blue diameters..." ?? Might be a typo, but I am certainly interested in your info
He was trying to say two brush diameters. So for a 243 use a wrapped 22 brush, 308 use a 243 brush. He is providing enough room for the patch to wrap onto the brush.. Personally I don't see the advantage, if I want the brush to do any work it needs to be the right size otherwise it is just acting as a Jag and the brush bristles have zero effect.
That makes much more sense to me. Thanks for clarifying. I follow the lazy man approach to as you could see from one of my posts above.I have found that a brush works a little better than a jag for scrubbing action, especially down into the corners of the grooves. 270 or 7mm brushes work best for 30-caliber bores, depending on the thickness of the patches being used. A worn-out 30-cal. brush is also good.
I have also found that the triangle patches work far better than anything else, and have stopped using brushes with patches since I went to this type of patch. Since I started using Wipe-Out, about twenty years ago, I have also stopped doing any scrubbing of bores. Like a few other guys have mentioned here, I use the Accelerator when I want to clean a bore in an hour or two, but vastly prefer the lazy-man's approach - that is, I do the all-night soak and skip the Accelerator. Triangle Patches on a fairly tight-fitting jag generally leave me nothing to look at with the bore scope but steel. I have had to try several different jag diameters to find the one that fits the best with different sized patches, but the triangle patches fill up the grooves extremely well, and they wipe out everything.
That makes much more sense to me. Thanks for clarifying. I follow the lazy man approach to as you could see from one of my posts above.
Joe, I have a Bergara Ridge. In 7-08. Ii too, had copper build up, as you said , at the muzzle end. I use Boretec religiously, and have grown to like how it works. Mine copper fouled there until around 110 rounds. Now, it barely shows, and cleans away easily. Another thing I will tell you, is to check your action screws occasionally. They both must be torqued to 55 in/lbs. Mine I believe has came loose on me twice. I'm thinking of replacing the stock on mine to the HMR stock, which I like. If not, HSWell I shot 18 shots. Two factory loads bergara recommends and two handloads. Not one sub moa group. Also, I swapped scopes before going out to be sure it hadn't failed. Guns gunna be shipped back to bergara. 2nd time. 1st time they gave me a new rifle. Also for accuracy issues. Ughh
Meant bore, dang auto correct!Great info, could you please explain by what you mean when you said " 2 blue diameters..." ?? Might be a typo, but I am certainly interested in your info
Cooper, my Bergara ridge, action screws seem to shoot themselves loose as well. The spec is 55 in/lbs. Sometimes after shooting alot, I dis assemble barreled action from stock, and have noted that the tension on action screws when removed was no where near 55. I keep my fatboy wrench with me at range now. Just an FYI.Did you check your action bolts? My CA did something almost identical and I could not feel any moment in stock to receiver but when I checked the bolts they were loose the front very loose. Torqued back to spec. and she shot great again.