Removing copper

Joe, having had the opportunity to spend 5yrs in ballistics labs between Barnes and Nosler, four of 5 with Barnes, between 2000 and 2005 I can tell you the procedure I followed and still do today. First, after proper barrel break in procedure is completed, I still prefer cr-10. Use a nylon brush 2 blue diameters smaller than what you are cleaning. Wrap 2x2 patch over brush corner to corner. Should be snug when put in bore, if loose fold 1/4" of first corner ok'd patch before wrapping. Saturate with cr-10. Scrub in small aggressive strokes bore to muzzle, using smaller dia brush allows to scrub without bending bristles. Scrubbing helps aerate ammonia in solvent, speeding up the process. As others have stated, nylon or SS won't give false blue patch readings. Repeat as needed until patches come out clean. This was technique at Barnes in my time there, still use it today, quick and efficient. You can cut 2x2 patch down if too tight and scrubbing is not possible.
 
Great info, could you please explain by what you mean when you said " 2 blue diameters..." ?? Might be a typo, but I am certainly interested in your info

He was trying to say two brush diameters. So for a 243 use a wrapped 22 brush, 308 use a 243 brush. He is providing enough room for the patch to wrap onto the brush.. Personally I don't see the advantage, if I want the brush to do any work it needs to be the right size otherwise it is just acting as a Jag and the brush bristles have zero effect.
 
He was trying to say two brush diameters. So for a 243 use a wrapped 22 brush, 308 use a 243 brush. He is providing enough room for the patch to wrap onto the brush.. Personally I don't see the advantage, if I want the brush to do any work it needs to be the right size otherwise it is just acting as a Jag and the brush bristles have zero effect.

I have found that a brush works a little better than a jag for scrubbing action, especially down into the corners of the grooves. 270 or 7mm brushes work best for 30-caliber bores, depending on the thickness of the patches being used. A worn-out 30-cal. brush is also good.

I have also found that the triangle patches work far better than anything else, and have stopped using brushes with patches since I went to this type of patch. Since I started using Wipe-Out, about twenty years ago, I have also stopped doing any scrubbing of bores. Like a few other guys have mentioned here, I use the Accelerator when I want to clean a bore in an hour or two, but vastly prefer the lazy-man's approach - that is, I do the all-night soak and skip the Accelerator. Triangle Patches on a fairly tight-fitting jag generally leave me nothing to look at with the bore scope but steel. I have had to try several different jag diameters to find the one that fits the best with different sized patches, but the triangle patches fill up the grooves extremely well, and they wipe out everything.
 
I have found that a brush works a little better than a jag for scrubbing action, especially down into the corners of the grooves. 270 or 7mm brushes work best for 30-caliber bores, depending on the thickness of the patches being used. A worn-out 30-cal. brush is also good.

I have also found that the triangle patches work far better than anything else, and have stopped using brushes with patches since I went to this type of patch. Since I started using Wipe-Out, about twenty years ago, I have also stopped doing any scrubbing of bores. Like a few other guys have mentioned here, I use the Accelerator when I want to clean a bore in an hour or two, but vastly prefer the lazy-man's approach - that is, I do the all-night soak and skip the Accelerator. Triangle Patches on a fairly tight-fitting jag generally leave me nothing to look at with the bore scope but steel. I have had to try several different jag diameters to find the one that fits the best with different sized patches, but the triangle patches fill up the grooves extremely well, and they wipe out everything.
That makes much more sense to me. Thanks for clarifying. I follow the lazy man approach to as you could see from one of my posts above.
 
That makes much more sense to me. Thanks for clarifying. I follow the lazy man approach to as you could see from one of my posts above.

Lots of guys on this forum have given up elbow grease in favor of the all-night soak. Rarely have I had the need to get one clean right now. Tomorrow is plenty of time for me. Once in a while I'll need to accelerate the process, but not very often. The bottle of Accelerator I have in the cabinet over the cleaning bench will probably last me the rest of my life.
 
Well I shot 18 shots. Two factory loads bergara recommends and two handloads. Not one sub moa group. Also, I swapped scopes before going out to be sure it hadn't failed. Guns gunna be shipped back to bergara. 2nd time. 1st time they gave me a new rifle. Also for accuracy issues. Ughh
Joe, I have a Bergara Ridge. In 7-08. Ii too, had copper build up, as you said , at the muzzle end. I use Boretec religiously, and have grown to like how it works. Mine copper fouled there until around 110 rounds. Now, it barely shows, and cleans away easily. Another thing I will tell you, is to check your action screws occasionally. They both must be torqued to 55 in/lbs. Mine I believe has came loose on me twice. I'm thinking of replacing the stock on mine to the HMR stock, which I like. If not, HS
Precision, for a Remington short action.
Other than that, most of loads are sub min, and I have some sub 1/4 min groups, that repeat. This rifle loves RL16, and cfe223.
Sorry you've had trouble with yours.
Take care, be safe!
 
Did you check your action bolts? My CA did something almost identical and I could not feel any moment in stock to receiver but when I checked the bolts they were loose the front very loose. Torqued back to spec. and she shot great again.
Cooper, my Bergara ridge, action screws seem to shoot themselves loose as well. The spec is 55 in/lbs. Sometimes after shooting alot, I dis assemble barreled action from stock, and have noted that the tension on action screws when removed was no where near 55. I keep my fatboy wrench with me at range now. Just an FYI.
I may replace the factory stock as well.
 
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