Removing copper

[snox801]

Ok what bore scopes are your favorites

 

[25WSM]

First off most guys don't even know that you need to break a barrel in. If you do a proper break in job your barrel fouling will be drastically reduced. At the 1000 yard matches most guys scrub down to bare metal after every relay. It does take a couple shots to settle in after it's been stripped. 3 shots tops and you should be good. If it takes more than that you have barrel issues. Most all of the copper removers work good but time is your friend. Let the chemical get the copper soft and it comes out easier. The biggest carbon to worry about is not in the rifling it's in the neck of your chamber. The last . 010 to . 020 of your chamber is were the carbon ring forms. This little build up will ruin accuracy more than copper. It will act like your shooting brass that is too long. The problem is your brass don't all stretch at the same rate and the longer ones get pinched in the carbon ring more than the shorter ones. This changes the pressure of all your shots and will show up on your targets. Teslong make a borescope on Amazon for about 50 bucks that works perfectly. I use mine all the time when cleaning to verify I got it all out. Some barrels can shoot 10 shots and need cleaned and some can go 100 shots you need to keep track how long you can go before your accuracy falls off. And like I already said proper break in will greatly extend your round count between cleaning.
Shep

 

[Jud96]

I started using Bore Tech Eliminator a few months back, and its the best cleaning solvent I've ever used. I've tried Butch's Bore Shine, Hoppes #9, Hoppes Benchrest, and Shooter's Choice in the past. All of them weren't any better than one another. They were all good at carbon removal but not stellar at copper removal.

I bought the Bore Tech Proof Positive cleaning jags, nylon brushes, and BoreSmith triangle patches. This is hands down a better cleaning setup than I've ever used in the past. There's no false indications of copper from my brush or jag, the solvent is not harmful to my barrel or to me, and the Bore Tech works amazingly well. It will definitely remove all copper if you run a wet patch down your bore, let it set 5-10 minutes, brush it, and repeat several times. I've never had a solvent work this fast or clean this thoroughly. If you just want to remove carbon and not all the copper, then it only takes a few wet patches, and then some dry ones and you'll be good to go.

 

[25WSM]

The fastest copper remover I have used is Wipe out with accelerator. The two used together works really fast. And I love the Wipe out foam for extended soaks. When I get back from a match I put foam in my barrels for an over night soak and it removes most of everything. Sweets 7.62 and Montana extreme work fast too but the smell is harsh. And no I'm not sponsored by Wipeout I buy it just like everybody else. And I gladly buy it because it works great.
Shep

 

[Dean2]

The fastest copper remover I have used is Wipe out with accelerator. The two used together works really fast. And I love the Wipe out foam for extended soaks. When I get back from a match I put foam in my barrels for an over night soak and it removes most of everything. Sweets 7.62 and Montana extreme work fast too but the smell is harsh. And no I'm not sponsored by Wipeout I buy it just like everybody else. And I gladly buy it because it works great.
Shep

I completely agree except I used the Wipeout Patchout (straight liquid version). You can let it sit for days and unlike the ones like Sweets and 7.62 it won;t hurt your barrel. It also removes copper great and my bore scope results show it is very effective.

 

[25WSM]

I do use the liquid version with the accelerator. The accelerator goes in first and then the Wipeout. If you then brush it aggressively it will foam up just like the foam but it won't expand and come out both ends. Accelerator will make the copper come out twice as fast. I only use the foam for overnight soaks.
Shep

 

[Bingoc]

After using Sweets 7.62 what is the best way of neutralizing the barrel to get completely rid of the Sweets or other solvents?
Thanks,

 

[Joefrazell]

Well I shipped the rifle back to bergara today. We will see what they say this time.

 

[nicholasjohn]

I do use the liquid version with the accelerator. The accelerator goes in first and then the Wipeout. If you then brush it aggressively it will foam up just like the foam but it won't expand and come out both ends. Accelerator will make the copper come out twice as fast. I only use the foam for overnight soaks.
Shep

Shep,

I put a plastic tube on the can to squirt the foam, and jam the tube tightly into the chamber neck. I just leave the tube stuck in there for the all-night soak. That way, nothing leaks back into the action or magazine well. Everything drips out the muzzle, which is left a little below horizontal, with a plastic tub on the floor below to catch the drips. I've been doing it this way for many years, and it's really clean to use in this manner.


Nick

 

[25WSM]

I have a bore guide with o-rings so I just spray it in and put my finger on the end of the bore guide for a few seconds till the foam stops pushing. Stuff works amazingly well.
Shep

 

[GW Hunter]

Wipe out is the easiest most effective cleaner i've ever used. The key is to figure out how long to keep it in depending on how far to bare metal you want to go.

 

[TXAoudadKlr]

I use butches and a bronze brush for carbon and tetras for copper

 

[nicholasjohn]

I have a bore guide with o-rings so I just spray it in and put my finger on the end of the bore guide for a few seconds till the foam stops pushing. Stuff works amazingly well.
Shep

I have used those, as well. I got them from Sinclair's decades ago, and they work great. The O-rings dry out as they get old, but they are easily replaced. Is that where you got the ones you are using ?

 

[25WSM]

I have the 21st century guides.
Shep