Removing a Tikka Barrel

[xsn10s]

Thanks.

I bought just about every vise out there looking for best clamping. The solution was staring at me. That's a Davidson vise that I owned since the 80s. It had the one piece top just like every offering there is out there. I even bought one with aluminum sleeves and another with wood sleeves, this two piece top is still my go to. I gave away 3 vises to friends, as they were just occupying space.

Never had a barrel slip on this guy.

I bought a vice two years ago on the cheap. Your design is so simple, yet so smart. One of those " Dang it! It was right in front of my face the whole time." ideas.

 

[jrock]

I use card stock

 

[xsn10s]

My factory Remington was glued in. I soaked with penetraing oil for two weeks. The oil got about 2/3rd's into the threads but the barrel just spun. I wasn't saving the barrel so I used the barrel vice, pipe wrench, breaker bar pipe, and Wheeler's action wrench.

 

[StumpyJohnson]

Drywall joint tape makes a fantastic bushing in the vise. 8 - 10 wraps in the opposite direction of the twisting force works for me.

 

[bamban]

Drywall joint tape makes a fantastic bushing in the vise. 8 - 10 wraps in the opposite direction of the twisting force works for me.

I use the same stuff.

 

[Brahmos]

How hard is it to remove a Tikka barrel? I have access to a clean Tikka 30-06 that Id like to make into a 280 Ackley but I have no experience with the barrel removal.
Thanks

Just removed my Tikka barrel and they can be a bit of a bear if it's not a fairly new gun, Tikka torque's there barrels for 223&308. @ 75 lbs and 100 for magnum cal, a good barrel vise and action wrench are required, make sure you use some drywall paper tape around the barrel when you install it in the vice.

 

[azsugarbear]

I have removed several T3 barrels. Some were easy and some were difficult. It was a learning process for me. The weak link always seems to be the barrel vise. I had the Viper, but the vise contour was straight while the Tikka barrel had a slight contour. This resulted in very little actual contact or 'purchase' on the barrel so it would spin. At the time, there were no aluminum Tikka contoured sleeves, so I made my own using epoxy. This substantially increased my purchase on the barrel (also used drywall tape). Some barrels (mostly magnums) were installed with an incredible amount of pressure at the shoulder/action face. I initially used an internal action wrench, but found there was a greater chance of actually twisting the action itself. I eventually switched over to an external, flat sided action wrench with a breaker bar and a large mallet to jar them loose. If the don't move by the third hit, I resort to heating up the action surrounding the tennons and try again. That always seems to get it done.

 

[bamban]

I have removed several T3 barrels. Some were easy and some were difficult. It was a learning process for me. The weak link always seems to be the barrel vise. I had the Viper, but the vise contour was straight while the Tikka barrel had a slight contour. This resulted in very little actual contact or 'purchase' on the barrel so it would spin. At the time, there were no aluminum Tikka contoured sleeves, so I made my own using epoxy. This substantially increased my purchase on the barrel (also used drywall tape). Some barrels (mostly magnums) were installed with an incredible amount of pressure at the shoulder/action face. I initially used an internal action wrench, but found there was a greater chance of actually twisting the action itself. I eventually switched over to an external, flat sided action wrench with a breaker bar and a large mallet to jar them loose. If the don't move by the third hit, I resort to heating up the action surrounding the tennons and try again. That always seems to get it done.

Here's what I did to the Viper vise before I gifted it to a friend.

 

[JD284win]

Mine popped right off easy.

 

[LuvDog]

I might have to slice my viper vice in half too

 

[HandgunHTR]

I might have to slice my viper vice in half too

Same. I have a T3 in 270WSM that is about to get disassembled. It will be my first Tikka. I have done a couple of Mausers and Remingtons. The Remingtons were cake. I had to resort to the pipe wrench on a couple of the Mausers.

Something else that I do for all of my barrel removals is have a 4X4 that fits up from the floor to just touching the action. This ensures that when I hit the handle with my deadblow or lean on the cheater a bit, all of the force is rotational rather than trying to force the action downwards.

 

[bamban]

Same. I have a T3 in 270WSM that is about to get disassembled. It will be my first Tikka. I have done a couple of Mausers and Remingtons. The Remingtons were cake. I had to resort to the pipe wrench on a couple of the Mausers.

Something else that I do for all of my barrel removals is have a 4X4 that fits up from the floor to just touching the action. This ensures that when I hit the handle with my deadblow or lean on the cheater a bit, all of the force is rotational rather than trying to force the action downwards.

^^^^ Supported action is the best way..

 

[Guns416]

How hard is it to remove a Tikka barrel? I have access to a clean Tikka 30-06 that Id like to make into a 280 Ackley but I have no experience with the barrel removal.
Thanks

I have remove quite a few Tikka barrels and I have only had problems getting 1 off. But I did get it off in the end. Just had to make a cut in the barrel just infront of the action. Then is screwed off very easily. You just need a good barrel vise and the correct action wrench. Don't let then scare you.

 

[Hugan]

Tikka barrels are some of the easiest to remove. I have done dozens and dozens.
The trick is to have an aluminium sleeve matching very well the tapered contour close to the breach. My barrel clamp(2" bore diameter) goes over that sleeve.
You can adjust the position of the barrel in relation to the sleeve so that the engraving is facing one of the clamping side of the sleeve. This helps for the grip. My tikka wrench is clamping the action on the flat sides of the receiver, just tight enough but not too tight. It is not necessary and creates to much tension on the threads.
I have a 3 feet tube going on my action wrench handle and most barreled actions come undone very easily.

This is the best way I have seen. I am going to make a action wrench like you have from the aluminum stock...thanks