Removing a Rem. Barrel

[scpaul]

Sounds similar. Pine rosin gets a little tacky when the moisture on your hand mixes with it. Makes for some wicked pitchs.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

I just can't figure why some manufactures put Perm Loc on their threaded actions and Flash suppressors/Brakes.
Bout 6-7 years ago I had a RRA with their Factory Brake/Flash on the muzzle of the barrel. I was having a hard time removing the Brake/Flash and called Customer Tech. They told me to heat it up and it would burn up the thread loc. Well I did that and no go. I called again and the sent me a prepaid shipping lable. When RRA got it they had a real bad time with it. I spoke with the tech that worked on it. He said after heating that he "TWISTED' the barrel and it still would not come off. The GOODNEWS is that We got a brand new barrel with 5/8 24 thread for our suppressor shipped back for free.
I advise everyone that if they have not taken the barrel off before without a lot of trouble, be prepared to throw that barrel away. All depends on the manufacture and how long on the action. Same goes for Brakes.

 

[44-40]

I just can't figure why some manufactures put Perm Loc on their threaded actions and Flash suppressors/Brakes.
Bout 6-7 years ago I had a RRA with their Factory Brake/Flash on the muzzle of the barrel. I was having a hard time removing the Brake/Flash and called Customer Tech. They told me to heat it up and it would burn up the thread loc. Well I did that and no go. I called again and the sent me a prepaid shipping lable. When RRA got it they had a real bad time with it. I spoke with the tech that worked on it. He said after heating that he "TWISTED' the barrel and it still would not come off. The GOODNEWS is that We got a brand new barrel with 5/8 24 thread for our suppressor shipped back for free.
I advise everyone that if they have not taken the barrel off before without a lot of trouble, be prepared to throw that barrel away. All depends on the manufacture and how long on the action. Same goes for Brakes.

I'd just machine off the muzzle breake in the lathe preserve the orginial threads and chase threads to clean them up and install new muzzle device.
And yes some barrels are tough to remove and may not be a task for the average guy, they require extra effort and ultimately machine tools, on the worst of the lot. If your taking it off a barrel, it's inaccurate and of little use, scrapping it is no big deal and used barrels can be used to machine other gun parts like muzzle brakes.

 

[44-40]

I just can't figure why some manufactures put Perm Loc on their threaded actions and Flash suppressors/Brakes.
Bout 6-7 years ago I had a RRA with their Factory Brake/Flash on the muzzle of the barrel. I was having a hard time removing the Brake/Flash and called Customer Tech. They told me to heat it up and it would burn up the thread loc. Well I did that and no go. I called again and the sent me a prepaid shipping lable. When RRA got it they had a real bad time with it. I spoke with the tech that worked on it. He said after heating that he "TWISTED' the barrel and it still would not come off. The GOODNEWS is that We got a brand new barrel with 5/8 24 thread for our suppressor shipped back for free.
I advise everyone that if they have not taken the barrel off before without a lot of trouble, be prepared to throw that barrel away. All depends on the manufacture and how long on the action. Same goes for Brakes.

Seems amateurish for a major manufacturer to damage the barrel that way removing a muzzle brake...after a reasonable effort, ya just put the barrel in the lathe and machine off the muzzle brake , down to the original threads , preserving them and chase the therads to clean up glue, and install new muzzle device of choice. 35 yrs as a machinist in the nuclear and robotics industries, leads me to believe the folks in that shop are not machinist. Incredible lack of problem solving skills, critical thinking, or imagination, displayed with that outcome. And Why I do my own gunsmithing.

 

[Lazy D]

I'd just machine off the muzzle breake in the lathe preserve the orginial threads and chase threads to clean them up and install new muzzle device.

I do that for clients who have the pinned and welded muzzle device in order to install suppressor adapters. That's the quickest and easiest way to do that. Then pin and Tig and all done.

Wow this thread sure went off the rails. But it makes the point. Trying to remove a barrel without the proper tools and skill set is asking to tear something up beyond repair. Take it to a professional and just have them break it loose for ya. It'll be cheaper that way.

 

[pavementends]

Guys, If you do not care about the barrel cutting a groove close to the recoil lug is the way to go. It relieves the pressure and will allow the barrel to come off with little effort. It is how we used to remove old Mauser barrels back when we were intent on destroying some really historic stuff to make what ever the "magnum" of the day was. I have had to do it on several old Remington's that defied all other attempts. Now if they do not come off fairly easily and I don't care about the barrel it is my first choice.

 

[scpaul]

Thanks, I'm going to try the wrench first because I don't have the equipment to make the cut. If it becomes necessary I'll try to do it slowly with a hacksaw or maybe a Dremmel with a cutting discount. I'm getting out of the hospital in a couple of hours so the doc suggested that I wait a couple of weeks before I exert myself too much. Thanks, I'll be in touch, Paul

 

[26Reload]

If the barrel is scrap..use a grinder to cut it to fit a wrench....
scrap is scrap...
Grinder with good metal cutter works really fast..heats things up too but not extreme..might solve all your dilemma....

 

[shortgrass]

The only barrels I have ever needed to cut a "relief groove" in, in the past 30yrs, are Howa 1500/Weatherby Vanguard and P14/ M1917s. I have a barrel vise that uses bushings (steel or aluminum), has four 1/2" bolts that puts the 'squeeze' on , and an action wrench that uses an adaptor to grasp the receiver at its strongest points. The vise is mounted on a sturdy bench and the action wrench is 32"L,,,,,, never needed a 'cheater' to get it done. The proper tools for the task make the difference. Tools that were on the "required to make" while in GS school. I tried a Brownells on the 1st 788 I re-barreled and all that happened was snapping-off the screw. Come to think of it, I cut a groove on 788s, too. I've not barreled many 788s, but I've barreled a very large 'pile' of 700s. They are not difficult to remove the factory installed barrel from. Added: the so called 'thread locker' found on the threads of 700s is not to 'lock' the threads, but is to keep the bluing solution from penetrating into the threaded connection, where it would be difficult to flush out and would rust, as 'bluing' is corrosive, a "controlled rust process".

 

[pavementends]

The only barrels I have ever needed to cut a "relief groove" in, in the past 30yrs, are Howa 1500/Weatherby Vanguard and P14/ M1917s. I have a barrel vise that uses bushings (steel or aluminum), has four 1/2" bolts that puts the 'squeeze' on , and an action wrench that uses an adaptor to grasp the receiver at its strongest points. The vise is mounted on a sturdy bench and the action wrench is 32"L,,,,,, never needed a 'cheater' to get it done. The proper tools for the task make the difference. Tools that were on the "required to make" while in GS school. I tried a Brownells on the 1st 788 I re-barreled and all that happened was snapping-off the screw. Come to think of it, I cut a groove on 788s, too. I've not barreled many 788s, but I've barreled a very large 'pile' of 700s. They are not difficult to remove the factory installed barrel from. Added: the so called 'thread locker' found on the threads of 700s is not to 'lock' the threads, but is to keep the bluing solution from penetrating into the threaded connection, where it would be difficult to flush out and would rust, as 'bluing' is corrosive, a "controlled rust process".

Shortgrass,
The ones I had to "grove" were also mainly Howa 1500, 1917 Enfields, and one really stubborn 700. Bore paste and a borescope have really helped with deciding whether a barrel is worth saving or not.