Removing a Tikka Barrel

[Jake_Leibke]

I did my first one this winter. For an action wrench I tried boring a hole in some oak blocks and clamping in a bench vise. Tried this method with Sheetrock tape, powder sugar and both together. It would would not hold tight enough. Bought a Viper barrel vise and that worked like a charm. I also made an action wrench that bolts together like the wheeler on the outside of the action and would take a 1/2" breaker bar. This also did not work for removal. Works great to torque new barrel though. Ended up getting some 1" aluminum bar stock and building a wrench/ breaker bar in one. This along with the viper vise worked wonders. Had the factory barrel off in seconds.

 

[JuddL]

A buddy and I are convinced they have a gorilla on staff to tighten them.

Don't be afraid to use heat either. Good luck.

 

[bigngreen]

Tikka actions are consistently one of the easier. 99% of struggle start with the vice, if your not locked and get a little movement of flex that takes away a lot of your ability to pop it, I use just a standard Wheeler and a quick sharp hit on it and they spin but I'm clamped up solid.

 

[Lobber]

Tikka actions are consistently one of the easier. 99% of struggle start with the vice, if your not locked and get a little movement of flex that takes away a lot of your ability to pop it, I use just a standard Wheeler and a quick sharp hit on it and they spin but I'm clamped up solid.

Typically, I would agree. I've only done 3 t3x barrel removals so far. The first 2 went pretty easy, but the last one I did was an absolute bear! Luck of the draw I guess…

 

[jrock]

+1 on good vice fitup on barrel and an outside the action wrench. I find a big rubber or weighted mallet with a smart strike on the action wrench does a pretty good job of getting barrels off. Getting the barrel vice as close to the receiver as possible will help quite a bit.
Penetrating oil is a next go to, but I agree with others and don't think it does much and takes quite a bit of time.
Freezing the barreled action and then heating the action is usually the last straw.

 

[bamban]

Modified vise works well. The two pieces with oversized holes allows the two pieces follow the contour. End effect is just like having a pair of vise torqued down on the barrel.

Wrench like one in post #15 or a Brownells wrench flat on flat works well. One whack on the handle does the job.

 

[Philo in AZ]

I have done over a dozen Tikka barrels and all but one have been easy with my heavy duty setup. The odd one resisted everything and would strum like a guitar string when I struck the wrench handle with a 3lbs brass mallet. Since the client didn't want to keep the barrel and i didnt want to risk damaging the action, I put the action into my 4 jaw on the lathe, with the muzzle in a live center and turned off the shoulder of the barrel tenon. The tenon threads had something like epoxy on them. Definitely not anti-seize. Weird.

 

[Lobber]

I have done over a dozen Tikka barrels and all but one have been easy with my heavy duty setup. The odd one resisted everything and would strum like a guitar string when I struck the wrench handle with a 3lbs brass mallet. Since the client didn't want to keep the barrel and i didnt want to risk damaging the action, I put the action into my 4 jaw on the lathe, with the muzzle in a live center and turned off the shoulder of the barrel tenon. The tenon threads had something like epoxy on them. Definitely not anti-seize. Weird.

This sounds like my latest experience as well. Glad I'm not the only one that has had one like that, haha

 

[sierrastalker]

https://www.mountaintactical.com/shop/tikka-t3t3x-gen2-long-action-aics-bottom-metal

i just built a 280ai off of a 30-06 Tikka. There are several routes you can take to deal with the mag length. I looked at all of them before settling on dropping mine into an MDT chassis. It's not a super lightweight setup, but that's not what I was going for and I've got more mag length. The MDT AICS mags are built specifically for a Tikka action at 3.560. I'm also not trying to load super heavy bullets, I'm using it as a dual purpose hunting and range rifle, but leaning towards usability in the field hunting. Ultimately the action itself is going to limit you on cartridge length, and there are mods to squeeze a little more out of that, but you have to use a dremel.

Anyway, everyone seems really hot on Berger 195's and if you wanna shoot those you'll be challenged, but so far I haven't needed any extra length to get to the lands up to 169g Hammer Hunters. Obviously that's also going to depend on the barrel you put onto the action. I'm still loading and will hopefully be shooting this weekend, so I can't give any results, but I already know don't have any need for additional length because I don't plan to shoot the really heavy for caliber bullets.

 

[Jim’s Hunt]

I have done over a dozen Tikka barrels and all but one have been easy with my heavy duty setup. The odd one resisted everything and would strum like a guitar string when I struck the wrench handle with a 3lbs brass mallet. Since the client didn't want to keep the barrel and i didnt want to risk damaging the action, I put the action into my 4 jaw on the lathe, with the muzzle in a live center and turned off the shoulder of the barrel tenon. The tenon threads had something like epoxy on them. Definitely not anti-seize. Weird.

I agree with you on chucking them in a lathe and cutting .010" from action face about .080 deep with a parting tool. A lot less stress on the action. I'm replacing the barrels anyway

 

[xsn10s]

Modified vise works well. The two pieces with oversized holes allows the two pieces follow the contour. End effect is just like having a pair of vise torqued down on the barrel.

View attachment 453957

Wrench like one in post #15 or a Brownells wrench flat on flat works well. One whack on the handle does the job.

Buddy looks like you could patent that and sell them!

 

[bamban]

Buddy looks like you could patent that and sell them!

Thanks.

I bought just about every vise out there looking for best clamping. The solution was staring at me. That's a Davidson vise that I owned since the 80s. It had the one piece top just like every offering there is out there. I even bought one with aluminum sleeves and another with wood sleeves, this two piece top is still my go to. I gave away 3 vises to friends, as they were just occupying space.

Never had a barrel slip on this guy.

 

[westexhunt]

I have the Tikka barrel specific aluminum inserts for my short action customs barrel vice. Do you guys use anything between the aluminum and barrel (Sheetrock tape, blue towel with or without rosin)?

 

[0-tolerance]

If I'm saving the barrel, I soak it with Liquid Wrench overnight. If I'm not saving the barrel, I chuck it up to my lathe and make a relief cut on the barrel just in front of the action. Then spin it off by hand.