Brydawg512
Well-Known Member
I see. Would my best bet be letting the shop do it? It is a small local shop, have friends who have had work done and they were all happy.
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Remington 700 5R -- Barrel Contacts End of Stock
- Thread starter Brydawg512
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
I see. Would my best bet be letting the shop do it? It is a small local shop, have friends who have had work done and they were all happy.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
For some reason, most shops don't even have/use tools like that, and still use the old school level method. Not sure if they don't know that it exists, or if they just don't want to spend the money on one? If I owned a gun store and offered that type of work, I'd have one in a heartbeat. The level method will work ok, and get you very close, but after pulling scopes (still mounted in the rings) and tested the plumb on the Dead Level, they were all slightly off. So, that right there was enough justification for me having spent that money on the Dead Level, especially to know that my level setups weren't quite as accurate as I had thought.
I've replaced the traditional dovetail base/ring setups on every single rifle I own. They now all have pic rails with high-end rings. So, for me, the Dead Level is worth every penny, because I can use it for every scope on every rifle I own.
If you have multiple rifles, or building a custom rifle, and want to learn to do your own work, buy some good tools. One of the best investments is the Dead Level, if you plan on shooting LR. Plus, self-reliance and not having to rely on a shop, makes you more independent, and will help you build more knowledge.
Brydawg512
Well-Known Member
Agreed, I would love to do this myself. So, if I don't go the Dead Level mount, what's my next best option? Using the levels and a plumb bob?
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
That's about the next best option, if you don't go Dead Level, but be sure to buy the Starrett levels. I know those will be accurate. They're entire company is based around precision measuring equipment.
Brownells sells the Dead Level if you're looking at those. That's where I got mine from.
I'm so cheap - just level my gun first in my Frankford Arsenal gun holder using the bubble level on the picatinny/weaver mount. Then I put the scope in the mounts and put the level on the top cap and level the scope. And I do it with a 6" bubble level from Home Depot.
But BEFORE I do all that, I put the lower half of the rings on the mount, put the scope in them (very carefully...and stand on a carpeted/padded floor, just in case) and figure out my eye relief. Then I mark that in pencil on the scope tube so I know where to put it when I'm leveling everything.
Please keep in mind that I'm probably never going to shoot at game farther than 550 yards away. That's my self-imposed minimum, so my way is surely 'not good enough' for a 1000 yard (or farther) shooter.
Here's two good videos that will help you. First is mounting the scope (about 5 min video) the second is leveling your crosshairs (about 1 min video.):
But BEFORE I do all that, I put the lower half of the rings on the mount, put the scope in them (very carefully...and stand on a carpeted/padded floor, just in case) and figure out my eye relief. Then I mark that in pencil on the scope tube so I know where to put it when I'm leveling everything.
Please keep in mind that I'm probably never going to shoot at game farther than 550 yards away. That's my self-imposed minimum, so my way is surely 'not good enough' for a 1000 yard (or farther) shooter.
Here's two good videos that will help you. First is mounting the scope (about 5 min video) the second is leveling your crosshairs (about 1 min video.):
I had a friend that bought a rifle and scope from a local store and he had them mount the scope.They did but the person mounting the scope had it setting too far forward and my friend had to crawl up to see through the scope.I told him to bring it to me and I'll get it set for his eyes.
First of all the scope was canted,second was the rings were cutting into the brand new Leupold VX3 scope.I lapped the rings and installed the scope where my friend could see clearly when thrown up for a shot.
Long story short is that if someone else mounts your scope it will fit their eyes and most likely not yours.
Spend some money and you will be able to mount any scope anytime to correctly fit your eyes.
Just my 2 cents
Old Rooster
First of all the scope was canted,second was the rings were cutting into the brand new Leupold VX3 scope.I lapped the rings and installed the scope where my friend could see clearly when thrown up for a shot.
Long story short is that if someone else mounts your scope it will fit their eyes and most likely not yours.
Spend some money and you will be able to mount any scope anytime to correctly fit your eyes.
Just my 2 cents
Old Rooster
freddiej
Well-Known Member
Is this a wood stock or a synthetic stock? Synthetics should never touch the barrel, the wood ones always touch the barrel at the sling swivel. the problem with Remington they put barrels on that 60% of the time will not meat the 1" or less with factory ammo. so the put a pressure bed point where the front sling swivel is. sand that down and the gun will be free floated. now if it is a plastic stock. sand down where it pinches and go shoot. If it is synthetic/Fiberglas and it pinches on just one side then something is very wrong. The barrel could be bent or something dreadful like that. if it pinches equally on both sides of the barrel then it is the wrong contour for that stock and you have to sand the stock.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
He said it's a 5R model, therefore, it's a solid fiberglass HS Precision stock.
Nothing is wrong with the stock if it leans to one side. And it doesn't necessarily mean there is anything wrong with the rifle, either. Don't harvest fear, where there might not be any. It just means the stock's barrel channel either wasn't cut straight, or that during curing, it slightly warped. Not a huge deal, and easily corrected with the steps I posted on page 1.
Worst case scenario, the action face isn't square and it's pushing the barrel towards a particular direction. This can be corrected by blueprinting the action and squaring the receiver face...All typical procedures performed during a standard "blueprinting" by a gunsmith. And if the barrel shoots good, but the receiver face is out of square, the smith can simply blueprint the action, check the barrel's chamber for concentricity once reinstalled, then put it all back together with the original parts, just with everything fully trued up. Can be a very inexpensive and quick process. Also a very simple one to correct some factory production issues, if you know everything else is good on your rifle. Some companies actually offer this package, and call it an "factory accurizing package".
Nothing is wrong with the stock if it leans to one side. And it doesn't necessarily mean there is anything wrong with the rifle, either. Don't harvest fear, where there might not be any. It just means the stock's barrel channel either wasn't cut straight, or that during curing, it slightly warped. Not a huge deal, and easily corrected with the steps I posted on page 1.
Worst case scenario, the action face isn't square and it's pushing the barrel towards a particular direction. This can be corrected by blueprinting the action and squaring the receiver face...All typical procedures performed during a standard "blueprinting" by a gunsmith. And if the barrel shoots good, but the receiver face is out of square, the smith can simply blueprint the action, check the barrel's chamber for concentricity once reinstalled, then put it all back together with the original parts, just with everything fully trued up. Can be a very inexpensive and quick process. Also a very simple one to correct some factory production issues, if you know everything else is good on your rifle. Some companies actually offer this package, and call it an "factory accurizing package".
Last edited:
To a degree, I agree with this. I'm just not so sure the rifle work is so easy to do.
IMHO, I would simply bed the rifle to correct any slight contact. I have a half dozen of these stocks and love them. All but one of them shot better after bedding. The one that didn't was the same, not worse.
If the barrel is not square to the receiver, it's not usually a simple repair. Blueprinting to fix misalignment is not easy to do...... PROPERLY. Yes, it can be done inexpensively, but it's not likely to shoot well.
The best one could hope for is a receiver face that is crooked. While that can be fixed, it will probably also require some chamber work to headspace properly. A crooked face and threads cannot be fixed without a new barrel or cutting the tenon off. A crooked barrel tenon must be cut off and recut resulting in a shorter barrel and a crummy barrel contour that looks ugly in the stock.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
I've built quite a few customs... It's not as difficult and magical of a process as people like to pretend it is, to ensure they get top-dollar for their work, or justify having paid top-dollar for someone else to do the work. It's actually very straight-forward.
...and, in this case, a little sandpaper on a dowel will get Brydawg's gun "right with the world" again. Yea!
