Reloading headache with bullet seating issues

Thanks. There seems to still be more tension than normal with my rcbs die too, but the numbers seem to match up giving me around .002 neck tension. Not sure what to think. The faint ring from the rcbs doesn't bother me, but still feels tight.
Son......don't ever complain....if it" still feels tight"!
 
Is your only concern the ring left by the seater? There area couple ways to fix that. I've seen it happen across multiple different manufacturer's seating stems with different bullets. You can try different neck tensions but it's easier to modify the stem.

As mentioned above the easiest way is to put some quick-set epoxy in the end of the stem and shove a bullet in until it sets. Just rig up some way to hold the bullet in place while it sets. You'll need to drill a small relief hole in the center once it's cured to accommodate bullet's with different meplat lengths. As stated above it spreads the seating pressure across the entire bullet. The downside is that the stem is now set aside for that one bullet.

I've chucked a bullet in a lathe (you can use a drill) and spun it in the end of the seating stem using lapping compound. This is more time consuming than the epoxy but I've found it works across a multitude of different bullets.

Whenever I see rings on bullets I choose to epoxy the seating stem.
 
View attachment 457747Here's a picture. I double checked the few rounds I loaded and brass I'd prepped. The neck was actually .291 after the mandrel and .293 with the bullet seated.Brass thickness in the neck stayed about the same at .014. I just seated a round with my rcbs seater, and it still felt like I had to push harder than I should, it didn't leave that indentation and just a faint ring.
 
Just wanted to bring a little closure to this thread and thank everyone again for all the help. I've been really busy the past month but was able to make it out to put some hand loads through this rifle for the first time last week. I've never had such accuracy the first attempt reloading for a new rifle/load. I took 3 shot groups with the same powder charge and 4 different seating depths with .020" difference between each group. I don't have a vice or lead sled so I'm shooting off a bag and I couldn't hold it any steadier than how it grouped. The largest 3 shot group was 3/4" from the center of the holes and the other 3 groups were 5/8". This rifle is certainly capable of better accuracy with a more stable rest. I couldn't be much happier. Now time to try some higher powder charges to see if the accuracy is this good with a faster load.
0749C80F-FD4D-4D4E-808F-B36F6011937B.jpeg
 
Doesn't seem much response for large seating changes. That's surprising,, and weird.
Yeah, I was surprised too that they kept hitting in the same spot basically and all grouping well. I'd heard the scenars weren't too searing depth sensitive but still pleasantly surprised.
 
This is my first post here. Been browsing for a while. I'm about at my wits end. I'm not an advanced Reloader but have never had major issues reloading either. I'm loading a 6.5prc with adg brass and 139 Lapua scenars. I have a Forster seating micrometer and a Redding bushing die. I used my rcbs die to full length size brass and the bullets just had a very faint ring. I decided later to get a Redding bushing die with a .291 bushing and also decided to get a .262 expander mandrel to have more consistent neck tension. The first load had pretty strong tension and left a very noticeable indentation in the bullet. The diameter of the brass neck with the bullet seated is now .294. It was .293 after running the mandrel through it. Obviously I'm doing something wrong and is probably simple. First time going this route and would appreciate any info. Thanks.

Sorry so long winded.
Get a" Lee factory crimp die." It crimps from the sides. The regular die set does a roll crimp, and is tricky bc you can deform the shoulder easily or not crimp enough.
 
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