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Reloading headache with bullet seating issues

Some of the resistance you're feeling is compressing the spring on the sliding sleeve. Also, there's a difference between a shiny ring and a dent, are you sure the bullet is dented?

It does seem to be a seating stem fitment issue, your other neck numbers all look good.
yeah, there is an indentation all around the bullet. It's kinda hard to see in the pic I sent.
 
I did a little playing around, and when I used my rcbs full length sizer followed by running the mandrel through, there was less pressure and a barely noticeable ring with my Forster seater. When I used my type s Redding full length sizer with .091 bushing followed by the mandrel and seating with the Forster, there was still a noticeable dent and ring. Not sure what gives. I know I spent too much time on this today though. Lol. Thanks for all the help so far! I appreciate any other info you all have. Thanks.
 
I did a little playing around, and when I used my rcbs full length sizer followed by running the mandrel through, there was less pressure and a barely noticeable ring with my Forster seater. When I used my type s Redding full length sizer with .091 bushing followed by the mandrel and seating with the Forster, there was still a noticeable dent and ring. Not sure what gives. I know I spent too much time on this today though. Lol.
This is my first post here. Been browsing for a while. I'm about at my wits end. I'm not an advanced Reloader but have never had major issues reloading either. I'm loading a 6.5prc with adg brass and 139 Lapua scenars. I have a Forster seating micrometer and a Redding bushing die. I used my rcbs die to full length size brass and the bullets just had a very faint ring. I decided later to get a Redding bushing die with a .291 bushing and also decided to get a .262 expander mandrel to have more consistent neck tension. The first load had pretty strong tension and left a very noticeable indentation in the bullet. The diameter of the brass neck with the bullet seated is now .294. It was .293 after running the mandrel through it. Obviously I'm doing something wrong and is probably simple. First time going this route and would appreciate any info. Thanks.

Sorry so long winded.
Are you chamfering the inside of the neck before seating? Might try some graphite on the neck also.

Warren
 
View attachment 457747Here's a picture. I double checked the few rounds I loaded and brass I'd prepped. The neck was actually .291 after the mandrel and .293 with the bullet seated.Brass thickness in the neck stayed about the same at .014. I just seated a round with my rcbs seater, and it still felt like I had to push harder than I should, it didn't leave that indentation and just a faint ring.
I had this same thing happen to me when I bought a Forster seating die.

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Here is where I learned to have Forster make you a custom seating stem to your exact bullet.

 
it was a couple years ago when I had this same issue and I wound up just going back to my Redding seating die. I was frustrated spending the money on a Forster die to learn I needed to spend more money to customize the stem and for only one bullet profile... when a cheap Redding die seats several bullets without any mark.

I was not getting any unusually heavy neck tension, -.002-.003" is normal and will not leave a seating stem mark. Im not saying Forster dies arent worth it, but they should put this info on the dies page when its purchased.
 
I like Forster's answer above,, seems correct in every regard.
But I notice their stem contact point is relatively high on the bullet nose.
This would aggravate the potential, as it increases wedging with a given force.
Aside from a ring, which affects drag/stability, it also messes with consistent seating depth.

I prefer stem contact lower on the ogive, which I get from Wilson dies.
 
There are several die types/brands that have this issue, not just Forster.
I use both Forster and Redding micrometer seating dies, both have issues with leaving rings on bullets, both have options for VLD type stems that MAY work with YOUR bullet. This is not guaranteed.
I found buying both standard and VLD was hit and miss, so what I have done is roughen up the inside of the seater, turn the inside edge off on a 45° then fill with Devcon 10110 and wax a bullet and place it in the stem until it stops using the seater die as a guide then let it sit for 48 hours. The stem is now a custom fit for THAT bullet. Have tried turning new one's myself, and it is difficult getting the ojive position exactly where you want it without CNC programming to help, very time consuming measuring bullets and writing CNC programs, which is why a stem just has a taper at whatever angle they think will do the job.

Cheers.
 
I think I might have figured it out. I went based off a YouTube video for s1 full length Redding dies. They took the rod out and just put the bushing in, so I did that. Like I said, I'm no reloading expert. I read the actual direction and put the rod back in after removing the pin and full length sized again. The issue went seems to have gone away. The Forster was still definitely more fussy than the rcbs as far as the dent on the bullet when tension was higher, but i seated a few rounds after full sizing with the bushing and then using the expander mandrel. It wasn't leaving anymore marks. I'm hopefully in the clear now. Thanks again for all the help!
 
The seating stem is weak and easily flares out and causes non-stop issues.
That's a potential I forgot to mention with stems contacting high on bullet noses.

I've also done epoxy filling to fit VLDs with standard stems (drilled deeper). Spreads the force over more contact area.
No rings or meplat damage with that.
This may help with Forsters
 
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Your loaded neck diameter vs prepped brass neck diameters seem good at 0.002" difference. Make sure you've chamfered the inside mouth of your brass. Is your brass annealed as if it's been fired several times and work hardened this could be your issue.

I also agree with Mikecr's comment about how high your stem is hitting on the bullet and prefer a stem sized to hit as low on the bullet as possible (David Tubb talks about this as well in some of his videos and has found much lower run-outs as well when hitting lower on the ogive). I've also had to polish the very tip of some stems as they seem to 'grab' the bullet and hang on a bit as I lower the ram after seating (I've also found success in dipping the stem in my powdered graphite neck lube)….have to do this very carefully and minimally as you don't want to cause your stem to get out of concentricity.
 

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