Relatively new reloader looking for feed back

[5gauss]

Yes always one variable at a time ....record changes, then move to next variable, etc etc etc but only one change at a time...very important or things get confused quickly...

 

[Arneson]

Others powders group the same
Your flyers are or sorta of trigger pulls ?
Chronys tell you alot if flyers are 40 - 60 ft different especially vertical ones

 

[jdavistx]

You haven't mentioned what your CBTO is for these loads- how far off the lands are you & to you have a max length that you know of? EG are you loading to your max magazine length?

In my short 10 years of reloading experience I have found that CBTO can directly impact group size.

I start all my LD regimes at 10 thou, find the node/s going through the incremental charges then change my CBTO to 5 thou & to 15 & 20 with the best performing charge, if the group improves but its still not amazing I will then do small incremental powder changes on that result.
Not often have I to go any further before finding the perfect depth, that's my method anyway, I usually have a result within 40 rounds,

If I haven't I swap powders OR try another projectile which I have only had to do twice when loading for 7 different cartridges & up to 3 projectile types in a single rifle but never ventured more than 20 thou.

So I would be using the 40.3 & 41.5 loads & changing the CBTO closer to the lands & also further from the lands to see if it brings either group in.

You nailed it. I have a custom 7mm R mag that shoots 0.258 MOA. One hole@ 100yds. After that you go for distance. I like Bergers. Look up up Litz and his data. Different guns like different loads. Right now, it likes 0.004" off the lands. Precision is key. Also, I see lots of pictures. Pictures are pretty but it's about MOA.

 

[jdavistx]

You nailed it. I have a custom 7mm R mag that shoots 0.258 MOA. One hole@ 100yds. After that you go for distance. I like Bergers. Look up up Litz and his data. Different guns like different loads. Right now, it likes 0.004" off the lands. Precision is key. Also, I see lots of pictures. Pictures are pretty but it's about MOA.

 

[skipglo]

Sorry tried to cover all variables but forgot the projectile
Hornady ELD X 143 gn

Can you explain your thinking? Is there anything about the groups that concerns you or makes you question their validity? I'm trying to learn here, not questioning your opinion

I would reshoot the 41.5 group. May well have been a margin of cant on the one shot left... otherwise very nice group...41.5 is where I am at same bullet...bring that left one in and you will be shooting .375 or better

 

[jdavistx]

If you're new to reloading, hire a guy to set up your load. He'll take your gun, hand work up the parameters. Probably cost you $500-$1000 for 100 rounds. (Less than the cost of your reloading gear) Then ask him how he did it. It's a great starting point because over time the gun will change and you can go from there.

 

[NeedForSpeed]

If you're new to reloading, hire a guy to set up your load. He'll take your gun, hand work up the parameters. Probably cost you $500-$1000 for 100 rounds. (Less than the cost of your reloading gear) Then ask him how he did it. It's a great starting point because over time the gun will change and you can go from there.

Appreciate the suggestion but i already have the gear and enjoy doing it myself
Ill get with a friend who has more experience loading re the lands spacing but I think i could do that now if I had to
Really more interested in how you would interpret my first attempt at variable charges

 

[jdavistx]

So many variables.

1) a good bullet, with good BC measurements over velocity. Berger. People want to mess with powder. It only covers up other mistakes.
2) same brass - fired or re-fired? It changes.
3) excellent scale - measure carefully.
4) same primer of good quality
5) have a micrometer that measures down to 1/10,000" $75 bucks.
6) one change at a time.
7) are you a shooter? No matter how good the gun, pulling the trigger should be as natural as a heartbeat.

What are you shooting? A bad gun, no matter what you do, won't hit. Harmonics, etc. Study Brian Litz. Look up tibouriesrex on Youtube. If you study these guys, you'll be a sniper.


Temperature? don't leave your bullets sitting in the sun. Increases velocity. A "hot" round decreases accuracy, don't go with hot round. An old .308 is still hard to beat at less than 1000 yards.

If you can't drill 1 hole at 100yards, somethings wrong. Either equipment or the human factor.

Then if you want to really go long range and drive nails:

1) get the wind right. If you're shooting over 500 yards, it's the big factor. It changes over distance.
2) Air density, spin drift,, coriolis effect.

Just focus on the basics. If you can't drill 1 hole at 100 yards, something is wrong. Focus on the basics. IMHU.

 

[jdavistx]

So many variables.

1) a good bullet, with good BC measurements over velocity. Berger. People want to mess with powder. It only covers up other mistakes.
2) same brass - fired or re-fired? It changes.
3) excellent scale - measure carefully.
4) same primer of good quality
5) have a micrometer that measures down to 1/10,000" $75 bucks.
6) one change at a time.
7) are you a shooter? No matter how good the gun, pulling the trigger should be as natural as a heartbeat.

What are you shooting? A bad gun, no matter what you do, won't hit. Harmonics, etc. Study Brian Litz. Look up tibouriesrex on Youtube. If you study these guys, you'll be a sniper.


Temperature? don't leave your bullets sitting in the sun. Increases velocity. A "hot" round decreases accuracy, don't go with hot round. An old .308 is still hard to beat at less than 1000 yards.

If you can't drill 1 hole at 100yards, somethings wrong. Either equipment or the human factor.

Then if you want to really go long range and drive nails:

1) get the wind right. If you're shooting over 500 yards, it's the big factor. It changes over distance.
2) Air density, spin drift,, coriolis effect.

Just focus on the basics. If you can't drill 1 hole at 100 yards, something is wrong. Focus on the basics. IMHU.

Oh, clean your rifle.

 

[crkckr]

I would offer a couple bits of advice. Your procedures seem sound but first, I would adjust POI to just above or below your aiming dot so you have something consistant to aim at. Second, I would put a lot more data for each shot. Case, primer, COAL or CBTO, bullet, powder, charge, date and wx data (usually just temp & .wind).
On the groups with a flyer, I would go back and reshoot some of them just to make sure that flyer wasn't me! Those 4 & 1 groups make me crazy! Or when I get 2 groups of 2 & 3. I've even kept track of individual shots just to make sure there wasn't a pattern in there (there wasn't).
You also might try finding the CBTO of each bullet before you start messing with powder charges. I don't believe it will charge from charge to charge, so once it's established you can start trying powder charges.
One last thing, your rifle is shooting pretty nice groups already so you could add more target dots per sheet, even if you shoot them on different days.
Cheers,
crkckr

 

[jdavistx]

I would offer a couple bits of advice. Your procedures seem sound but first, I would adjust POI to just above or below your aiming dot so you have something consistant to aim at. Second, I would put a lot more data for each shot. Case, primer, COAL or CBTO, bullet, powder, charge, date and wx data (usually just temp & .wind).
On the groups with a flyer, I would go back and reshoot some of them just to make sure that flyer wasn't me! Those 4 & 1 groups make me crazy! Or when I get 2 groups of 2 & 3. I've even kept track of individual shots just to make sure there wasn't a pattern in there (there wasn't).
You also might try finding the CBTO of each bullet before you start messing with powder charges. I don't believe it will charge from charge to charge, so once it's established you can start trying powder charges.
One last thing, your rifle is shooting pretty nice groups already so you could add more target dots per sheet, even if you shoot them on different days.
Cheers,
crkckr

Good advice. Now it's left up to the human factor.

 

[NeedForSpeed]

I would offer a couple bits of advice. Your procedures seem sound but first, I would adjust POI to just above or below your aiming dot so you have something consistant to aim at. Second, I would put a lot more data for each shot. Case, primer, COAL or CBTO, bullet, powder, charge, date and wx data (usually just temp & .wind).
On the groups with a flyer, I would go back and reshoot some of them just to make sure that flyer wasn't me! Those 4 & 1 groups make me crazy! Or when I get 2 groups of 2 & 3. I've even kept track of individual shots just to make sure there wasn't a pattern in there (there wasn't).
You also might try finding the CBTO of each bullet before you start messing with powder charges. I don't believe it will charge from charge to charge, so once it's established you can start trying powder charges.
One last thing, your rifle is shooting pretty nice groups already so you could add more target dots per sheet, even if you shoot them on different days.
Cheers,
crkckr

I tried to include most of the data
I checked the cbto just to make sure that they were all the same but since I havent started adjusting depth of projectile yet.
the primers are federal match large rifle in Hornady brass once fired
appreciate the input.
I specifically asked because I wasnt sure whether to discount one shot if it wasnt part of the 5 round group. I know I pulled the first shot down and to the right on the 40.3 group. Not so sure I pulled on the 41.5 group but I might have

 

[jdavistx]

I think you've got the math right. It might be the time to focus on the shooter. Always go back to basics.

 

[jdavistx]

I think you've got the math right. It might be the time to focus on the shooter. Always go back to basics.

If you can find it, I always shoot Nosler brass. It seems more consistent.