Redding Comp. Shell Holder Kit ??????

cowboy

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Was wondering if anyone that has some experience using the redding competition shell holder set to control shoulder bump could chime in on what they thought of them. I have never used this method of changing shell holders as I have always adjusted my die. This should be easier to be more precise and should be a lot quicker on set up I would think. I am using the redding bushing dies on an Ackley shoulder. Any goog-bad-or ugly would be appreciated.
http://www.redding-reloading.com/in...rticle&id=35:competition-shellholder-sets
 
This is my prefered method and I feel it is a good one.

I use redding bushing dies and a Redding T-7 turret press. I was instructed by redding to set the die up in this press for a slight cam over. This means that the die is slightly in contat with the shell holder when the ram is fully extended and you can feel the handle "cam over". The beauty in this is that you get the exact same ram extension each time you pull the lever regardless of how fast or hard you pull the handle. Even if you remove the die, the next time you set it up you will be right back to the exact same amout of ram extension. I use a standard shell holder for neck sizing and a stepped shell holder for when I am bumping back the shoulders. By removing the firing pn assembly and spring from your bolt, you can feel the tension of the shoulder interfearence when closing the bolt. I keep stepping up the shell holder with one with a higher floor till the bolt just closes with minimal drag. To me this means I have just set the shoulder back just enough but not excessively. All redding shell holders are the same height from bottom to top. The stepped shell holders have a stepped floor (where the case head sits) to adjust how far you push the case up into the die. Start with the shortest one and work up.

Hope this helps, it would be easier to demonstrate than explain in writing.:)

Jeff
 
Broz: The lights have turned on - I think I now understand the redding principle. Thank you!!! I have a son that talked to what he thought was a pretty no BS redding guy at the SHOT SHOW and that he said that they are starting to get away from "neck sizing " and bumping the shoulders back .001-.002 every time. I'm a neck size guy that only bumps back when the bolt tells me to but may have to try a set of these holders.
 
Broz: The lights have turned on - I think I now understand the redding principle. Thank you!!! I have a son that talked to what he thought was a pretty no BS redding guy at the SHOT SHOW and that he said that they are starting to get away from "neck sizing " and bumping the shoulders back .001-.002 every time. I'm a neck size guy that only bumps back when the bolt tells me to but may have to try a set of these holders.

Once you start to use this method, you will see how you have control of the shoulder location. I only neck size too. But I also can run them through a seperate "body only" die using the correct stepped shel holder and only the ones that need it will be affected. This means I have very consistant cases each loading and I never get the occasional oops that one closed a litte tighter.

This process only sizes each part of the case the bare minimum. And doing it in two steps of sizing also helps with controlling the run out. I can honestly tell you my TIR at the o-give of the bullet averages .0005"

Try it , you'll like it..:D

Jeff gun)gun)
 
" I can honestly tell you my TIR at the o-give of the bullet averages .0005"

And that amount depends on where on the ogive you measure. To get a true measurement of runout you need to check it as close to the meplat as possible.
 
I use them and I like them . I use a RCBS precision mic to measure my shoulder set back . I couldn't tell by closing the bolt when I was correct . I guess I just don't have the feel . Jim
 
I use them and I like them . I use a RCBS precision mic to measure my shoulder set back . I couldn't tell by closing the bolt when I was correct . I guess I just don't have the feel . Jim

Jim, your way is probably a better method. I don't have the correct mic set up to measure it to .001" But as far as "the feel" I can't feel it either until I remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt. Taking away the cocking tension upon closing the bolt makes this pretty easy to feel. If the shoulder is dragging I sure can feel it.

Jeff
 
Jim, your way is probably a better method. I don't have the correct mic set up to measure it to .001" But as far as "the feel" I can't feel it either until I remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt. Taking away the cocking tension upon closing the bolt makes this pretty easy to feel. If the shoulder is dragging I sure can feel it.

Jeff



Jeff , I didn't think of the cocking when you said you took out the firing pin assy , this makes better sense to me now . I know I could close the bolt just as easy using the .008 as I could using the .000 . I could tell a little resistance when I used the .010 . thanks for explaining ! Jim
 
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