Being I am left handed. I generally having to set my own stocks up. Most rifle I have are set up with a barrel changed out right off anyway. i like 26" or longer barrels in my rifles. Not all are that way, but most are.
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rebarreling a mauser
- Thread starter jeffer
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BillLarson
Well-Known Member
^^^^ what joe sez it true.....Commercial mausers are different that military conversions.....
And now the 22 Creedmoor enters the ring....
I have always used Lothar Walther barrels & use all 98 mausers which are large ring. I have one Turkish 98 which has a small ring and I had installed a Swedish surplus 96 barrel in 6.5 X 55 cut & crowned to 24". I call it my Tweed. L&W did guarantee 1/2" at 100 yds. For mausers they are long chambered and require setting back to headspace. To put a reamer on the chamber voids the warranty. The bores & chambers are lapped & polished. Need a gunsmith now to install a Shilen 7mm08 on a medium length action. Anny recommendations for a smith who won't make me cry?
xsn10s
Well-Known Member
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- Mar 7, 2016
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Yes my commercial JC Higgin FN Belgium Mauser's magbox is 3.400".
BillLarson
Well-Known Member
CORRECT....
Mustangswo
Member
I have a sporterized chec mauser. I bought at an estate sale. All matching serial numbers and the Russian stamp for when it was acquired during the war. Hard.to find rounds for it though.
Chokoloskee Joe
Well-Known Member
Most reasonably priced gunsmith with expertise in Mausers to my knowledge is Richard King is in Arlington Tx. Look up his website under Kings Armory. He is an expert in restoring old Mausers as well.
I started customizing rifles on Mauser 98's and it's a pretty good way for you to get into doing it yourself or you could just keep that Mauser 98 just as it is there are fewer and fewer of them around these days.
Yes, you will need a few basic tools, some specialty tools and shazam with a little help you too can do you own work. Find someone that will help you, local would be tons better if they know what they're doing, and let them guide you, especially when it comes to installing the new barrel and checking the headspace. You can even cold blue it yourself if you want to and if you do that right it will last a long time too.
It's not as hard as it might seem at first, but there are things that need to be done correctly or you could have a time bomb in your hands.
I personally have built numerous Mauser 98's from 22-50 up to 458 WM with no issues (I had competent local help when I started), but you do need to buy known good actions or have someone check it for you.
Below is some published pressures of rounds I've built on a Mauser 98, except the 220 Swift, I've never built one of those, plus a couple of website you might be interested in.
7 x 57 Mauser 51,000 psi
300 WSM 65,000 psi
308 Win 62,000 psi
458 WM 62,446 psi
22-250 65,000 psi
220 Swift 63,962 psi
http://lasc.us/SAAMIMaxPressure.htm
https://calculator.academy/cup-to-psi-calculator/
Yes, you will need a few basic tools, some specialty tools and shazam with a little help you too can do you own work. Find someone that will help you, local would be tons better if they know what they're doing, and let them guide you, especially when it comes to installing the new barrel and checking the headspace. You can even cold blue it yourself if you want to and if you do that right it will last a long time too.
It's not as hard as it might seem at first, but there are things that need to be done correctly or you could have a time bomb in your hands.
I personally have built numerous Mauser 98's from 22-50 up to 458 WM with no issues (I had competent local help when I started), but you do need to buy known good actions or have someone check it for you.
Below is some published pressures of rounds I've built on a Mauser 98, except the 220 Swift, I've never built one of those, plus a couple of website you might be interested in.
7 x 57 Mauser 51,000 psi
300 WSM 65,000 psi
308 Win 62,000 psi
458 WM 62,446 psi
22-250 65,000 psi
220 Swift 63,962 psi
http://lasc.us/SAAMIMaxPressure.htm
https://calculator.academy/cup-to-psi-calculator/
Stonyman88
Well-Known Member
I have 1 .33/40 Mauser's that was done, and 1 K-98 in the 7mmx08 , I have more of the same rifles but didn't want to mess with the others as the price on original ones are very high for sale prices. One is in 308 Win and one is done in 7mmX08, both shoot under .25 MOA and very happy with them. I put a Fisher safety on both of them, It allows you to put the safety on and lock the bolt closed, also you can open the bolt with the safety on. Very good set up and still have some of the original safety's he made , new and never used, all you have to do is drill one little hole in the shroud and silver solder them on.
Allen Lone wolf
Well-Known Member
Have built a few 25+yrs ago. All 96's but I started a 98 build. Got it stripped down to the receiver drilled and tapped for a scope, bolt handle heated and bent. Then I got this flyer in the mail from Davidson say they had a Ruger 77RS chambered in 35 Whelen. Well it was a limited run so I called and had my sales rep. send me 1 of the 3 he said he got in. It shot terrible groups so I hogged out the stock bedded the action, free floated the barrel and installed a Timney trigger worked a good load for a 200gr Bullet. Wala! I had that rascal shooting bullet holes, large bugholes. So a very good friend of mine said he would like to buy my action and build a 35 Whelen. Being my best bud I gave it to him and the scope mounts I had I ordered. Well, as far as I know he never built that rifle. Go figure.
I came across this problem with 2 of my rifles. One mag was longer than the other. Never went a farther, but now I understand why. Thanks!
sable tireur
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- Joined
- Oct 8, 2010
- Messages
- 3,990
Numrich has several variations of bottom metal available:
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/881550c
No I didn't read all 6 pages on this topic.
The .220 Swift is a semi-rimmed cartridge and as such can contribute to some feeding problems. Yes, I know there is a following of supporters but there are better cartridges to use for the performance.
As noted, the 22-6mm Rem. would be superb in an original Mauser platform, the 6mm case being a derivative of the 7x57 cartridge. I've used this cartridge as well as the Improved version for a very long time successfully.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/881550c
No I didn't read all 6 pages on this topic.
The .220 Swift is a semi-rimmed cartridge and as such can contribute to some feeding problems. Yes, I know there is a following of supporters but there are better cartridges to use for the performance.
As noted, the 22-6mm Rem. would be superb in an original Mauser platform, the 6mm case being a derivative of the 7x57 cartridge. I've used this cartridge as well as the Improved version for a very long time successfully.
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2010
- Messages
- 163
Budget vs nostalgia vs unique? If budget isn't an issue, go for it! However, if money matters, save some and store the old 98 away. I just completed a 6.5 Creedmoor project on a 98 and spent more money than I expected because I couldn't stand to scrap the old action. I could have saved dollars by letting go of that emotion. There are some worthy 220 Swift rifles currently listed on Gunbroker. If your set on that cartridge, I bet you can save $$ by going that route. Some modern 22 caliber cartridges offer + 4000 fps velocity and a quality modern commercially produced rifle will be cheaper. Bullets tend to fail at 220 Swift velocity, so there is that to consider. I have a 22-250AI with a 1 in 14 twist. Developing a load was challenging. My next barrel will have a faster twist and my not be an AI.
