Rebarrel a Christensen or sell?

Do you happen to remember how much windage and elevation from factory settings you had to put on the scope to get your zero? Was it a bunch or just a few moa?
It's been all over the place since I've had it and can't get any consistency out of it to get it close to a zero.
 
Will your point of impact move with your scope adjustments? I'd be curious to see if it at least tracks while waiting for another scope to test. If it's not an issue with the scope, I'd send back to Christensen. There's no way I'd be ok throwing more money at it by rebarreling and not having CA look at it first.

Edit: Didn't see your new post while typing. Will be interesting to see what it might do with a different scope.
 
Will your point of impact move with your scope adjustments? I'd be curious to see if it at least tracks while waiting for another scope to test. If it's not an issue with the scope, I'd send back to Christensen. There's no way I'd be ok throwing more money at it by rebarreling and not having CA look at it first.

Edit: Didn't see your new post while typing. Will be interesting to see what it might do with a different scope.
I really liked the gun which is why I chose it over a Bergara this time, so I am really hoping it's the scope.
 
One thing to consider, since bought the rifle used. It is possible that it has had the bore cleaned with silicone spray. WD40, I've seen that a long time ago during the 1970's. The fix was to pour boiling water through the barrel. Then thoroughly clean it and lubricate it. Give that a try.
 
One thing to consider, since bought the rifle used. It is possible that it has had the bore cleaned with silicone spray. WD40, I've seen that a long time ago during the 1970's. The fix was to pour boiling water through the barrel. Then thoroughly clean it and lubricate it. Give that a try.
The rifle was bought brand new.
 
As stated before, You might have a coppering issue. Get an anti-copper solvent and run a nylon brush through it about 50 times (all the way in and all the way out is one) from the chamber side, not the muzzle. Take the muzzle brake off and clean the residue off the crown. Do you shoot off a bipod or bags? Do you use a rear bag? Are you resting the barrel on anything when you shoot? Are you shooting off a bench or a folding table? Ton of variables to take into effect besides everything mentioned in the other posts.

I have a CA Ridgeline in 28 Nosler and I have found copper fouling to be an issue when switching between bullet manufacturers.
 
It's been all over the place since I've had it and can't get any consistency out of it to get it close to a zero.
Many times when the bases and rings point uphill, for whatever reason, either the top of the action isn't right or the rings or bases have a defect, and you have to dial a ton of up elevation, near the upper limits of the scope, the erector spring doesn't have enough tension to hold zero. Check it by holding a mirror against the front of the scope either in very bright light, or by having someone shine a bright flashlight on the mirror and look through the scope. You'll see 2 sets of crosshairs. If your horizontal crosshair is at the bottom of the scope, then you're almost out of up adjustment. If that is what you see, I'll explain the fix. If that's the case, don't move anything until I tell you how to correct it. Believe it or not, I'm working on a Stevens 200 in 308 right now that had that exact problem.
 
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As stated before, You might have a coppering issue. Get an anti-copper solvent and run a nylon brush through it about 50 times (all the way in and all the way out is one) from the chamber side, not the muzzle. Take the muzzle brake off and clean the residue off the crown. Do you shoot off a bipod or bags? Do you use a rear bag? Are you resting the barrel on anything when you shoot? Are you shooting off a bench or a folding table? Ton of variables to take into effect besides everything mentioned in the other posts.

I have a CA Ridgeline in 28 Nosler and I have found copper fouling to be an issue when switching between bullet manufacturers.
I will try the copper issue this week and see how it does as well. Ive been shooting off a bipod with a rear bag from a concrete table.
 
I will try the copper issue this week and see how it does as well. Ive been shooting off a bipod with a rear bag from a concrete table.
When you mounted the scope did you push the rings all the way forward against the rail as to prevent movement from recoil?

I hope you get it figured out, I know how frustrating it can be.
 
This thread is only 19+ hours old , started at 10:30 PM last night , and we are over 104 posts at this time .
JD-ODINSON has not had sufficient time to do much , yet he is progressing , even as I type this suggestion .

I would definitely change the scope to a scope from another of your rifles that shoots well , at 1 MOA or better , or borrow a scope from a friend's rifle that is known to be an accurate shooting rifle . Scope magnification range does not matter , 4x will be fine .
Mount the known good scope , zero it to point of aim at 25 yards , and if it does not put bullets in a cluster touching each other at 25 yards , you will be wasting time to test any further .
If the rifle shoots a tight cluster at 25 yards , zero it to point-of-aim at 25 yards .
Then move to 100 yards and shoot 3 shots , do not adjust scope . The 3 shots should impact nearly 3" above dead-center at 100 yards .
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO DETERMINE WITH 3 SHOTS if the rifle is accurate , or not .
If another shooter is at the range , ask them to shoot a 3 shot group with your rifle , also .

If the rifle does not shoot 1 MOA or smaller , send it back to the manufacturer , along with the targets , especially the 25 yard target .

GOOD LUCK TO YOU .
 
I'm assuming you checked the crown?
4"! Could be the scope. You asked how would you know its the scope? It would shoot better with a different KNOWN scope!!!. If the known scope shoots bad id send it to Christensen. It'll cost you $30 to ship. You wasted more money in ammo! They might even send you a shipping label.
 
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