That is why I squeeze the dog down on the frame so that it doesn't have any back-and-forth movement then file a vee notch in the dog and the pan, making a gun sear notch, there is no creep in the pan if it moves it fires, they are putting downward pressure on it when it closes on their leg above the foot for a good high catch. no pinched toes with no creep in the pan in my experience. With frozen or frosty ground, the trap is sometimes slowed down here so learning how to use a good antifreeze for your dirt is one method and the use of a cloth pan cover that extends under both jaws helps with that as well. I had a lot of digging at my sets sometimes and found it was mice and packrats that's when I stopped waxing my traps, I just used logwood dye after that as a rust inhibitor, kind of like the bluing on a firearm does sort of thing. A good backing like was shown in the picture of Walt marking where the other canines had marked, is also helpful to keep them from coming in from the backside or rolling on your set as is the use of a good quality lure in my opinion. The USDA has done a lot of study on all types of predators and various other animals, I worked with Wildlife Services to control starlings at a power plant as well as doing coyote control. I also took part in a rabies study here in my county, where they took the heads of skunks and checked them for rabies. I live trapped 30 skunks and drowned them, and only had one that sprayed, to send in the heads. I also turned in one live bat that was out in January it had a fungal infection called white nose disease, but wasn't rabid as I suspected, because a bat out in January here is unheard of. I sat a coffee can over it then slid the lid under the can and sealed it with it inside.