nealm66
Well-Known Member
Neighbor said he missed a coyote at about 100 yards this morning lol.
Ramblings and Such From Hunting Coyote
- Thread starter DSheetz
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It's very easy to shoot high on one that close it depends on how you are sighted in a lot of people zero at 200 yards or more because they want to shoot at longer ranges . Most of the rib cages of coyote that I measured were in the eight inch area so if you were to shoot 4 inch's high your right at the top end of your target . I have too I'm not sure there is a person that hasn't .
Straight Shooter
Well-Known Member
^^^^^Used to do that. That is why I finally settled on a 100 yard zero on my calling rifle.
nealm66
Well-Known Member
He came over to watch me pull a rifle apart and just said he missed a coyote. I just assumed it was way out there and was curious and asked as I'm always looking for something that might help my long range shooting. Well, lol, it happens
Terry Lightle
Well-Known Member
Do not know where it came from but been working for me since mid 80s with 22-250 rifles
DMP25-06
Well-Known Member
Let me try to remember back into the 1950's .
During the 1950's , the .30-06 was the most popular cartridge , and scopes were just beginning to become standard equipment for hunting rifles .
At that time , most of the Gun writers and "Experts" at the various hunting and shooting magazines wrote about and recommended that the .30-06 cartridge , with the 150 grain bullet at a standard velocity of approximately 2900 FPS , be zeroed dead-on to point of aim at 25 yards , and if done so , then the bullet would then again fall back into the zero point of aim at 200 yards , and never be more than 4" above the line of sight .
My Dad and I zeroed our rifles that way , and they were almost exactly as described in point-of-aim and trajectory as described by Jack O'Connor .
Of course the scopes were mounted at low heights above the bore , usually 1.5" or slightly less from centerline of bore to centerline of scope .
Getting harder to exactly recall the different "Experts" names from 65+ years ago .
There really seems to be a "Fog" clouding those older memories .
DMP25-06
Well-Known Member
I think that most military "Ball ammo" for the .30-06 was 150 grain FMJ , during WW2 and Korean War , so the 150 grain bullets were very popular in commercial .30-06 hunting ammo at that time .
I'm not sure either but I was told that the 30 caliber of 1906 was used by allies during WW1 and at that time battle range was 200 yards for the U.S. troops . So as has been stated it was tied to the military round of 30-06 . The military 30-06 ammo I used was 175 grain special purpose ammo . I still have a few box's of Twin City ammo that I am going to give to the museum it was left over from Keora and Vietnam . At any rate it's an interesting subject .
nealm66
Well-Known Member
I still zero a lot at 200. For some unknown reason it works better for my click data at distance. Most likely user error but it definitely seems to be a thing with me. Haven't been shooting for a while. Finally forced some time in and getting 2 rifles ready, 1 6creed with 108 elites and one 7mm rem mag with 131 hammers ( 1-11 twist). Hoping to get some autopsy photos to see bullet performance. Been so busy lately. Got a brand new 300 prc with a Curtis valor and haven't had time to build fire form rounds. It just sits there staring at me. Will be fun finishing the hammers and see how the huskemah scope turret does with them
A thought for the AR fans . You bought a mill spec. AR now you want a free floating hand guard , you pull the mil spec hand guard off take the delta ring , front sight gas block off , put your new barrel nut on torque it to spec. align the screws so that your new hand guard is aligned correctly by using your shims for the barrel nut , then you knock out the spring pin holding you gas tube in the old gas block clean every thing up and line the gas tube up in your new low profile gas block put the spring pin in and push your gas block on to the shoulder on the mil spec barrel . Is your gas port aligned correctly or do you need to space it 80 thousandths froward of the shoulder to make up the difference of the mil spec hand guard ? Measuring mine the new gas block is machined for the difference but some of the less expensive ones I've seen weren't machined for the difference does it make that much difference in the gas flow how does your AR function after the modification you just made to it by changing out the hand guard ? Just a thought maybe a little OCD with that as with most every thing else especially coyote control .
Brother Buckwheat
Well-Known Member
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- Jan 9, 2014
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- 67
I'm no expert Dave, but if your gas block needs to move .080 won't it miss the port in the barrel? Or am I understanding the question wrong?
From the interwebs (but ports can be spec'd when having barrel built):
"These are the most common ranges of diameters you'll find on AR-15 barrels measuring 11.5" to 24" in length. Port diameter also changes depending on the thickness of the barrel itself (0.625", 0.750", or 0.825"):
From the interwebs (but ports can be spec'd when having barrel built):
"These are the most common ranges of diameters you'll find on AR-15 barrels measuring 11.5" to 24" in length. Port diameter also changes depending on the thickness of the barrel itself (0.625", 0.750", or 0.825"):
- 11.5" Barrel (0.625") Port: 0.081" to 0.089"
- 11.5" Barrel (0.750") Port: 0.086" to 0.094"
- 14.5" Barrel (0.625") Port: 0.063" to 0.078"
- 14.5" Barrel (0.750") Port: 0.070" to 0.086"
- 16" Barrel (0.625") Port: 0.063" to 0.078"
- 16" Barrel (0.750") Port: 0.070" to 0.086"
- 20" Barrel (0.625") Port: 0.086" to 0.093"
- 20" Barrel (0.750") Port: 0.093" to 0.096"
- 24" Barrel (0.825") Port: 0.089" "
When you take a mil spec front sight gas block off it has a hand guard end cap between the mil spec front sight gas block and the shoulder on the barrel that is 80 thousands thick and the port is 7/32 " from the back end of the gas block . On a lot of the less expensive gas blocks they will have the port located at the same location 7/32 " . On a different gas block designed to replace the mil spec gas block and hand guard with a free float hand guard the port will be placed farther forward into it to compensate for the 80 thousands that you remove when you take the front hand guard cap off of the barrel so that the gas port in the barrel and the gas block align with each other well other wise if it isn't and you push it all the way to the shoulder on the barrel you will have around 80 thousands miss alignment of the two ports effectively restricting gas flow . Does it matter ? Only if it affects the working of your bolt carrier and the ejection of the spent round which I have seen a couple of times and scratched my head till I disassembled it and saw the gas and carbon marks where they weren't lined up properly then found out that it was changed from a mil spec hand guard to a free float hand guard and an inexpensive gas block was installed standard mil spec 556 barrel is .750 diameter at the gas block putting your gas port in the barrel .070-.086 by your chart mine measure a number 50 drill bit so right at .070 but the holes in my gas blocks measure .093 with my ball mic. so for me it was a thought that it was an important thing for me to check out and be sure that the ports aligned well . Just me rambling because I'M OCD about those things just my make up . If it kills your coyote , doesn't blow up , or blow back gas in your face and ejects the spent round well it really doesn't make any difference . I'm not an expert on it either just some of the things that I have experienced in the builds I have been exposed to and asked if I could get to function correctly .
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