Possible to DIY build a precision rifle?

[Buck Fever]

I would dispute that, factory guns rarely have barrels as good as the better prefits out there.

 

[Jeffpatton00]

224 Valkyrie is not a suitable ELR caliber. The ballistic coefficient is too low and the muzzle velocity too, even with a 30" barrel. Beside that, with the type of targets you shoot at for ELR, spotting your misses is very important. Most people say .338" is acceptable but .375"+ is better for creating "splash" on a miss.

For those reasons I chose 338 RUM for my entry level, fairly low budget DIY ELR gun.

I did preorders for my action and chassis so that was a little under $2,000, my barrel was a little under $700, I bought my trigger on sale for $216, my muzzle brake was $195 and my magazines were $85 each I think. So about $3,200 for the base gun.

For now I'm using a scope I have on hand but eventually that's going to be another $1,800 expense for a Tract 34mm tube scope and some ARC rings I have. I could spend a lot more if I wanted and if I went nuts, a Charlie Tarac attached to an NV bridge wouldn't be cheap.

I'm also working on a linear bearing bipod mount like Mark and Sam after work which I'll attach my Ckye pod to. That's about $700 with my rear bag to make a portable/light weight almost a benchrest setup.

The preorders saved almost $800 on my action and chassis but you could go for something like a KRG Bravo and a trued Remington 700 for less. For a 338, you will need a brake but I needed a self timing brake so you could save some money there. Single shot doesn't need a magazine.

My rifle may seem expensive but it's cheap compared to a custom built for 338 Lapua Magnum or one of the .375" up ELR rounds.

Reloading gets expensive too. Bullets cost at least twice what you would spend on 224 and solids for real ELR work are even more. Powder is about 3-6x as much. Brass can be a really big expense. Dies can be expensive if you choose an uncommon/wildcat round. If you go big enough, you might have to upgrade your reloading press. I was looking to see if a Lee APP press could be a good dedicated depriming press for me but 338 RUM is too long, I'm not sure if I should get it for my other reloading.

You should know what you are getting in to if you have to justify it. I only have to justify my rifles to myself and that is why my entry level ELR rifle isn't the type of thing you would see on the firing line at King of Two Mile. It is going to be nice but as much as it cost, budget was a huge factor.

Great feedback on caliber. I do think every expense should be justified, at least commensurate with the need, but in this case, justifying the cost of the platform is more important to me than that of the consumables. You're right, the larger caliber costs more than 224, but ELR is a thoughtful, deliberate pursuit and we don't blast through a ton of ammunition indiscriminately. I know you, like me, plan every round that goes down range, then assess the results and adjust as necessary, and this results in a slow pace of firing and a relatively low round count, so I would tend to see the cost of consumables as moderate compared to the investment in a capable platform.

Thx for the cost estimates on your components, that's very helpful and I'll look at those.

 

[Ranger Rick]

I've built a couple of semi-auto rifles, they're so modular that it's pretty easy to do so successfully. Is it similarly possible to build a bolt-action precision rifle? I had a custom AR upper built with a 30" Bartlein 5R progressive twist (6.5) barrel in 224 Valkyrie. I load close to the lands so the rounds are long and don't feed through a magazine, and I now think I should have had it built in a bolt action rifle. Is it reasonably possible for a mechanically-capable shooter to build a bolt gun? I know things like truing the bolt face would need to be done by a smith with the knowledge & equipment, but can a shooter normally select compatible parts and assemble the rifle successfully ?
Jeff

Jeff,
Yes! I've just completed my first build = a 300 PRC Hunting Rifle.
Here's a list of my componests:
26" Proof Research Carbon Fiber 1:8" pre-fit or shouldered to a Zermatt BigHorn SR3 action.
SR3 action, DLC coated, medium tang, milled for a Wyatt's 300 PRC Extended box
Wyatt's 300 PRC extended magazine kit (for a BDL bottom metal)
Trigger Tech Rem 700 Special trigger w/o the bolt release (it's in the action)
Hawkins Precision M5 Oberndorf black bottom metal (Specific for Wyatt's magazine)
APA Gen Little Bastard Self-timing muzzle brake
AG Composites carbon fiber Visigoth stock. When I provided the info on the components to AG Comp, their CNC software built a perfect stock with no extra inletting required.
I bought Go/NoGo gauges and a BigHorn action wrench, went to my gunsmith, perfect fit, and it was assembled in 20 minutes @ $65

Company websites:
Proof https://proofresearch.com/barrels/bolt-action/ Purchased at Stocky Stock's received in 3 days.
BigHorn https://bighornarms.com/product/sr3-action/ Purchased direct
Wyatt's https://wyattsoutdoor.com/product/long-action-prc-kit/ Purchased at Red Hawk Rifles
Trigger Tech https://triggertech.com/products/rem-700-special-trigger?variant=47305797644 Purchased direct
Hawkins Precision https://hawkinsprecision.com/our-products/bottom-metal/ Purchased at Red Hawk Rifles
APA https://www.americanprecisionarms.c...es/products/gen-2-little-bastard-muzzle-brake Purchased direct

I corresponded with every company, and their Reps were exceptionally helpful. Highly recommended as everyone gave me peace of mind for my $3,100 investment. Still breaking It in but consistently sub 0.5MOA
If I can be of further help, feel free to pm me. RR

 

[Buck Fever]

I agree that deliberate and slow fire reduces your round count but the up front cost for loading ammo is still high.

With the way components go, my philosophy became buy enough brass to shoot out your barrel. My options were ADG, Bertram, Nosler, Norma, Gunworks or Remington (which is almost impossible to find). Comparing reviews, I could find reports of loose primer pockets after 1-2 firings from each brand. I found a good price on Norma 300 RUM brass so I bought 300 cases I'm going to neck up, reform and keep my fingers crossed that the primer pockets stay tight for 5-6 loads. A 5lb jug of Reloader 25 seemed like the right way to go (right before Retumbo and H1000 started showing up again), with a couple boxes of Magnum primers and 2 boxes of Berger 250 grain bullets, my initial cost of consumables was over $600 and my serious ELR loading is going to need expensive lathe turned solids which is another big expense.

I'm trying to get the best reloading dies I can get on a budget but that's still $200+. I could go cheap but it would work the brass harder and might wind up costing more (and potentially leave accuracy on the table).

So costs are high and my $3,200 rifle is more like $7,000 once I develop a load and set it up to shoot prone with a bipod and bag.

And that is the cheapest way I have found. Well a single shot 338 Edge on a Savage with a budget scope might save about $2,000, you could go cheaper on the bipod and brake, no magazine, factory trigger, that might save another $500. Those were compromises I did not want to make and I already had the bipod.

Bottom line, get ready to spend if you want to dip your toe in to ELR.

 

[CaptnC]

A buddy of mine is buying parts (no machine work required) and doing the assembly himself.

Impact Precision action and Proof carbon fiber barrel with a sweet Stocky Stock.

Bad little beach!

Top target was shot with a 6.5 PRC he had just finished barrel break in. The barrel started off not liking Hornady 143gr. But the top left target was shot with that ammo after he completed a 30 shot and clean between each shot.

I know this is a bit abnormal, but the top 5 shot group was shot by both of us. The three that make an "L" was shot by him. I shot the two that are touching just off his bottom right shot.

We were shooting at 200 yards in near 100 degree temperatures!

Bottom left is a .223 with the same action but different barrel and a chassis stock.

 

[264MHC]

Building a diy bolt rifle in my opinion is a touch more difficult than putting an AR together. Here is the thread I posted on the first one I did from scratch that details some of the issues I ran into:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/put-together-my-first-custom-rifle.227542/

Now if you go with a chassis, most of those problems go away. Just be aware that it's pretty difficult to do it under $2000 just for the gun with all new components. If you can find a really good deal on a factory gun and not change everything right away it can lessen the financial burden. I would absolutely recommend a Tikka for this purpose because you don't need a new trigger and there are shouldered prefits available from multiple companies. Plus they already have a side bolt release and are super smooth and true. Just started a build on one myself.

 

[Greyfox]

Using both Bighorn and Savage actions and pre-fit Criterion barrels I have built three rifles for (1)hunting and (2)competition. I was surprised at how easy it was to mount/headspace the barreled action. As for precision and accuracy, all three deliver comparably to my custom built rifles.
200 yard groups shown.

 

[CaptnC]

If your working under a bit smaller budget. Savage actions do make a great platform to build on.

I have several but only two have after market barrels.

One 6.5x284

100 yard 5 shot group.

It now has a Sharp Shooters bolt sleeve and Glade bolt with knob.

The other 6.5-06

Three shots, first shot cold bore at 600 yards.

Only three parts are unaltered Savage parts...bolt face, one of two firing pins springs and the cocking pin (not exactly sure what its called).

 

[manitou]

Check out Northland Shooter's Supply

 

[ntsqd]

.224 Valkyrie on a Howa 1500 Mini in an MDT chassis, Satern barrel & Timney trigger (yes, I am LH'd & yes, I only shoot RH bolts):

Biggest issue with the Valkyrie in particular is finding a bolt face in the right diameter. The above action was originally a 7.62X39. In the 'Smithing forum here there's a thread of mine wondering if this would work. Consensus seemed to be a draw, but it is working so far. I could not manually tear a case out of the extractor with the case offset as far away from the extractor and the bolt face would allow. Obviously if I "bent" the case towards the extractor it popped free, but no other manipulation would.
I am only as far as barrel break-in so I do not have real performance numbers, but the last target looked promising.

I had Satern fit their barrel, all of the rest of the assembly work is mine.

 

[Dirtrax]

There is a difference between "pre-fits" and "remage" systems.

 

[John Klingenberg]

Yep. Box stock savage action, hart barrel 6 twist in .224 Valkyrie on a MDT chassis. Built at home.

 

[Buck Fever]

I don't get 224 Valkyrie in a bolt gun, just get a dasher or 6GT and be way ahead. Heck, 6.5 Creedmoor will do better if you don't mind looking like one of the crowd.

I personally think there are far better chamberings and once you get away from the AR15 platform, there is nothing it does that you couldn't do easier in a different chambering.

I've got an AR15 chambered in TAC6 which is what a 6mm Valkyrie should be, shooting 105s at around 2,700 from an 18" barrel. Great for an AR15 but I wouldn't build a bolt action for it. It's the same 6.8 SPC parent case so it would have all the same issues as a 224 Valkyrie bolt action. I don't think it is worth the hassle when there are better and easier options.

 

[ntsqd]

I refuse to reload for an auto-loader and .224 Valkyrie is right there in the case capacity range that I've long thought should be ideal for the .22 bore. That being NOT an over-bore case like the .22-250 or a Swift.