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other bullets for 270 Win

Dr. Vette,

My load is 140 Accubonds, 54 grains of N560, RP cases, fired with 210M Fed primers and with a COL of 3.380. I have not checked the velocity yet.

I first started shooting the 140 Nosler BT and my gun loved the BT's with IMR-4831 but I could not get the gun to shoot Accubond with the same load, so I started looking for another powder. I lucked up with the N560.


Here is a couple of 100 yard targets.
 

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Dr. Vette,

My load is 140 Accubonds, 54 grains of N560, RP cases, fired with 210M Fed primers and with a COL of 3.380. I have not checked the velocity yet.

I first started shooting the 140 Nosler BT and my gun loved the BT's with IMR-4831 but I could not get the gun to shoot Accubond with the same load, so I started looking for another powder. I lucked up with the N560.


Here is a couple of 100 yard targets.

Thanks. I've been using H-4831SC with FC cases and Federal 210M primers. I now wonder if a powder switch would help given what you noticed.
 
This load is 2.7g over the maximum Berger book load. Very few guns can safely use this load so start about 5g less than that at the minimum.

I worked up to the same load of 60.0gr H-4831SC using 140gr Accubonds with zero pressure signs at all. Speed was 3010-3020 in my rifle which is where Nosler put it with 58.0gr.

Unfortunately the accuracy I got on the first day was not repeatable so I'm back to the drawing board.
 
Bedding. Barrel condition (how fouled). My 3 featherweights are bedded to the tip and are very happy. If a wood stock the forend have any roll to it? All three of mine twisted enough to slap the side of the barrel...
Just a thought but bedding helps for sure if none....
 
I'm reloading for a Winchester model 70 featherweight in 270 Win with Norma brass and Federal 210 primers. The rifle has had the lugs lapped, the barrel hand lapped and the action trued. The barrel is free floating and I've played with the torque on the receiver screws. I've double checked the scope base screws and the scope ring screws. I've heard a few times that the factory barrel on a featherweight doesn't shoot very well. I've found that the barrel shoots A LOT BETTER warm than cold.

I've tried Barnes 130 grain TTSX, Nosler 130 grain Partitions and Nosler 130 grain Accubonds. I've tried H4831SC, H4350 and IMR 4350 powders. The groups are usually 1" to 1 3/4", sometimes as small as 5/8", but not consistently.

Any suggestions on which bullets to try next??? I want to use the rifle for whitetail hunting, so terminal performance is important along with accuracy. I'd like to find something that would shoot 3/4" or less at 100 yards.
You didn't say your FPS or if you are approaching max book load (which book).

I have an old 270Wby, load for a new 270Wby and recently did some load work. I also have a Winchester M70 Featherweight but in 243.

If you have a new M70 in 270 it should have a 1:10 twist. You 'should' be able to shoot up to 130 TTSX but ...

Combining my work with both and here is what I would suggest:

Try 110TTSX or 95TTSX as fast as you can go, they will probably stabilize better.
 
You didn't say your FPS or if you are approaching max book load (which book).

If you have a new M70 in 270 it should have a 1:10 twist. You 'should' be able to shoot up to 130 TTSX but ...

Combining my work with both and here is what I would suggest:

Try 110TTSX or 95TTSX as fast as you can go, they will probably stabilize better.

At .5 grains over book max (Barnes book and Nosler website) for all 3 powders, they run at about 3050 to 3120 fps with no pressure signs. But since I'm over book max, I'm don't want to run any more powder. It is a new M70 with 1:10 twist. IMHO 95 or 110 TTSX are too light for whitetail. I want to push at least a 130 grain bullet. Just my opinion.

Marksman66: I thoroughly clean the barrel after each trip to the range (20 to 30 rounds). I shoot 4 to 6 fouling rounds before shooting groups: yes it takes that many fouling rounds before they settle down. I use Boretech carbon and copper remover until there is no black or very much blue (copper) on the patches. Yes it is a wood stock, but there is plenty of free space between the barrel and the stock. Yes, bedding is one thing I may have to do.
 
IMHO 95 or 110 TTSX are too light for whitetail. I want to push at least a 130 grain bullet. Just my opinion.
My first hand experience is the 110 TSX is deadly on deer. It's all my brother uses and has used for about a decade now and he kills several every year. Hunters use 6mm bullets annually to kill whitetails that weight less than 110 gr.
 
At .5 grains over book max (Barnes book and Nosler website) for all 3 powders, they run at about 3050 to 3120 fps with no pressure signs. But since I'm over book max, I'm don't want to run any more powder. It is a new M70 with 1:10 twist. IMHO 95 or 110 TTSX are too light for whitetail. I want to push at least a 130 grain bullet. Just my opinion.

Marksman66: I thoroughly clean the barrel after each trip to the range (20 to 30 rounds). I shoot 4 to 6 fouling rounds before shooting groups: yes it takes that many fouling rounds before they settle down. I use Boretech carbon and copper remover until there is no black or very much blue (copper) on the patches. Yes it is a wood stock, but there is plenty of free space between the barrel and the stock. Yes, bedding is one thing I may have to do.
If 95 or 110 are too small, time to rebarrel. 300 RUM is what I'd suggest.:D
 
My first hand experience is the 110 TSX is deadly on deer. It's all my brother uses and has used for about a decade now and he kills several every year. Hunters use 6mm bullets annually to kill whitetails that weight less than 110 gr.


I use 110 grs TTSX on my voere .270 win, 61.8 grs of WW N160.
One of my friend with this load shot a deer that was about 450 lbs last week at 150 yards, result was perfect ! great bullets !!
 
I strongly suggest getting a bedding job on your gun. This will noticeably increase the accuracy on your rifle.
 
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