Official Hammer bullets Terminal Performance (picture heavy)

Floyd,
Based upon your numbers I'd run the 151s. The higher your stability factor and the higher your velocity the better the results. Just for giggles, run the 124s through your program. It may be very enlightening!
Okay , here was my thought process and I appear to have been wrong . I guessed I could run the 151 AH in the 30-06 at 3250-3300FPS knowing 3300 was a stretch . I am sure I could run the 162 AH at 3300+ in the Lazz Patriot and could run the 178 AH at 3300 and much higher if I chose too in the Lazz Warbird . I am old and shot the barrels out on these multiple times and hoped the new barrels would get me through the rest of my hunting life at these lower speeds . All that being said I was thinking the 162 and 178 for Elk size and the 151 AH for antelope and white tail out to 650yds in the 30-06 but sounds like I should shoot the lighter 124-130+ or- grain in the 06 and 151's due to better stability for Elk in the Patriot and Warbird , I suppose I can just load them up to max speed and accuracy and only shoot them on hunting trips . Am I clear on this line of thinking ? If so I can call Mr. Steve and see if I can return the 162's and 178's in trade for more 151's and the lighter Bullets . One more question , should I shoot the AH 151 for Elk size animals or trade them for a different type hunter ?
Thank you Sir , Floyd
 
All these rifles are 10 twist , I did not check the Warbird for 9-9 1/2 twist but I think it is to late to change the new Warbird barrel it might have already been shipped to my G-Smith and too late to change. For grins I might run the 162 at a 9 and a 9 1/2" twist to see how it fares .
 
All these rifles are 10 twist , I did not check the Warbird for 9-9 1/2 twist but I think it is to late to change the new Warbird barrel it might have already been shipped to my G-Smith and too late to change. For grins I might run the 162 at a 9 and a 9 1/2" twist to see how it fares .
Run the 151 for everything and if your 500 and in run the 124 for everything, Run them fast!. I have a video in the works that will show the drastic difference in impact velocity
 
Many people coming from the traditional cup-and-core world make the the following mistake when switching to Hammer bullets: They think the bullets kill the same way, and so they apply cup-and-core concepts when choosing a Hammer bullet. That's a big mistake!

Cup-and-core bullets kill by mushrooming and creating a wound channel. Hammer bullets are not intended to mushroom, and a wound channel is not the primary killing mechanism. Hammer bullets kill by hydrostatic shock. HS is created by high velocity impact. Thus, Hammer bullets work best when run fast.

Additionally, Hammer bullets (like other monolithic bullets) do not shed weight in an unproductive manner like a cup-and-core bullet does. With cup-and-core bullets, you need to start with a 180gn bullet to get a 120gn bullet into the vitals. Hammer bullets do loose petals, but those petals do their own damage. Consequently, the entire mass of a Hammer bullet contributes to the kill, and if you need to put a 120gn bullet in the vitals for an ethical kill, you can start with a 140gn Hammer bullet.

The two previous paragraphs mean that it is best to choose light-for-caliber Hammer bullets. You don't need the extra weight, and, the resulting extra speed will help.

That being said, folks should shoot what they want to shoot.

JMHO
 
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Many people coming from the traditional cup-and-core world make the the following mistake when switching to Hammer bullets: They think the bullets kill the same way, and so they apply cup-and-core concepts when choosing a Hammer bullet. That's a big mistake!

Cup-and-core bullets kill by mushrooming and creating a wound channel. Hammer are not intended to mushroom, and the wound channel is not the primary killing mechanism. Hammer bullets kill by hydrostatic shock. HS is created by high velocity impact. Thus, Hammer bullets work best when run fast.

Additionally, Hammer bullets (like other monolithic bullets) do not shed weight in an unproductive manner like a cup-and-core bullet does. With cup-and-core bullets, you need to start with a 180gn bullet to get a 120gn bullet into the vitals. Hammer bullets do loose petals, but those petals do their own damage. Consequently, the entire mass of a Hammer bullet contributes to the kill, and if you need to put a 120gn bullet in the vitals for an ethical kill, you can start with a 120gn Hammer bullet.

The two previous paragraphs mean that it is best to choose light-for-caliber Hammer bullets. You don't need the extra weight, and, the resulting extra speed will help.

JMHO
Yes Sir , I have been running Barnes 130's for over 30 years but they neither load or react to impact in any way like these critters , this is a totally different animal , thank you for your input Sir. I was hoping I could increase barrel life over the hyper speeds that I have run the other mono's , due to lack of engraving but might not be the case . All advice is welcome , I do not know everything .
Thank you Sir , floyd
 
28 Nosler
169 Hammer Hunter
Impact velocity about 3000FPS (150 yards)
Exit is shown, and two pedal exited as well
He went 10 yards and was alive for about 20 seconds after the shot
IMG_4083.jpeg
 
I really, really want like the hammer bullets. But the low advertised BC is what keeps me from jumping all in.
I did finally find a good 6.5 Grendel load that I will be publishing in the absolute hammer thread. The results were impressive even though the BC calculated in the .170s G7.
 
I really, really want like the hammer bullets. But the low advertised BC is what keeps me from jumping all in.
I did finally find a good 6.5 Grendel load that I will be publishing in the absolute hammer thread. The results were impressive even though the BC calculated in the .170s G7.
Mike you need too figure out at what point is bc going too off set the velocity gain you get with a lighter hammer bullet and also knowing the hammer bullet will have a wider range of terminal performance impact velocity wise
 

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