Not a LRH gunsmith question

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Sorry it has taken so long to get back to everyone. I finally got a extra hand at getting her apart. Here is my update for you guys

I found 2 things.
1st...the sear had alittle more ware then I was expecting. ( considering them made of tool steel)
2nd....The pine tree like sap, gummed up mess. I'm assuming it's the last lube I used. A good friend suggested I try....

I found no broken parts. But, I think a good Smith will be installing all new parts. I will try to post pics.
 

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Those pics are of the hammer. The last pic is a .019 filler gauge I used to check the hammer hooks. Some suggestions were that they needed to be greater than 0.019.
 
Oh my...lol...didn't realize I had my ugly thumb in the one pic.
My oldest son, that thinks he's a comedian said..." Dad, your left hand is the tuffest thing known to man. Its been mashed 3 times, ran over by a truck, stabbed a few times, cut more times then a beef at the slotter house, and now shoot twice...and it still won't die"
 
It was sticky like sap also. I don't like putting manufacturers out on here. Because it just starts a bashing fest. But I will say that the lube I used last time was frog lube. I also used it in a couple of my ar's. I'm going to get that stuff out of them as soon as my fingers get back to normal.
 
Thanks for the update. That Sear looks pretty rounded. I'm sure that sticky lube wasn't helping the situation at all. How did the Sear Spring look?
 
Over the years I have found that when you change cleaners , lubes ect . it is important to remove all of the previous products from the parts as they don't always react well with each other . I was instructed to put a new type of gear oil in several gear box's but not change out the old oil . We ended up with tar in the gear box's and having to rebuild them all . Since then I clean them well before adding any thing new to the parts as a lube .
 
KYCarl nailed it with the acetone and cleaning the parts well. All of that goo inside would be enough to hang parts up, like the disconnect, and cause the rapid fire that was experienced. I use either a "very" light coat of Breakfree or Remington gun oil, and....very sparingly. If I want to prevent rust there's a product that I have been using called "RIG", about $20 for a pint tub from Brownells, will last me for years and I always use it before I put my firearms away on the inside of the barrel and the outside of the weapon; but, never on internal parts ever. RIG is like a clear grease, only lighter, for the barrels I use a nylon bore brush with RIG on the brush and coat the barrel as if I were cleaning it. On the outside I use a RIG rag, sort of like a lamb's wool cloth, again saturated with RIG.
 
Thanks for the update. That Sear looks pretty rounded. I'm sure that sticky lube wasn't helping the situation at all. How did the Sear Spring look?
The spring looked to be good. It was still pretty stiff.
The sear does appear to look rounded to me also. Not what I was expecting from "tool steel" parts. But it has been used a good bit.
 
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