Not a LRH gunsmith question

[dfanonymous]

Welderboy, over the slide is the way every law enforcement training I have attended teaches for tap rack failure drills, slide lock reloads, and making ready. It's also the way that I train my Deputies as a firearms instructor. You did not do anything wrong in that aspect, so don't think you did.

For combat, over the hand slide manipulation allows people like us to use gross motor functions. It's not faster, or "the best way" but it for sure gives the most amount of reliable pull on the slide when adrenalin is pumping and blood moves more into the core of the body and reduces distal function. Not everyone gets why that is a common practice from an outside perspective. There are many "disciplines" here on internet but, no, it's not "wrong" to do hand over slide, specifically with palm to the rear of the slide, not in the front and not bringing the hand in front of the muzzle. Press checks are usually closer to the front.
However a 1911, and it's variants like the m45 is a professional weapon. It's not as simple designed as a Glock nor is it as simple to use. Weapons locked and cocked in a fighting application require extra steps, and rely heavily on muscle memory to be as effective on the draw, and with gear on. For instance, it's not hard for a plate carrier to take that slide safety out of position, so for the love of god, you better be good at drawing with finger straight and off the trigger.

 

[Welderboy11972]

I appreciate all the comments guys. This has definitely been an experience. Not one I will soon forget.

 

[25WSM]

Back to the op since you are the only one who has been in it I think
its safe to say it doesn't have tuned up trigger sear or tuned sear spring bend. So it's possible you have fatigued the original spring or slightly bent it out of position. Just buy a new one and it should be good to go. It can go back in without doing anything to it. Manipulating the sear spring arm should only be done by a competent gunsmith.
Shep

 

[shortgrass]

If a leaf spring bends from use, and you just bend it back into shape, it will bend from use again, eventually. Solution, a new spring from a quality supplier/maker... I'd still have that pistol looked at by a pro.

 

[25WSM]

Short grass. You are correct about a worn leaf spring. But you are not describing what I am talking about. I've been smithing for 30 yrs building custom rifles and I have done multiple 1911 builds and 100s of 1911 triggers jobs. I don't consider myself an expert on 1911s because of this. During a quality 1911 trigger job many things happen. No time for details. But one step involves the sear spring and it's manipulation. Yes it is bent. And yes it STAYS bent. For yrs. I also told the op to buy a new spring. Post 16 I told him to take it to a smith. I also said I knew what the problem was but would rather him take it to a smith. After I thought about it more I said later just replace the spring. It will restore function to his pistol but not be a tuned quality trigger job spring. So your here at post 46 saying the same thing I just said on post 45. Except we get a vague lesson on leaf springs. You obviously only know little about. A leaf spring can be bent past it's natural flex point so many times and it will hold this new bend point for the life of the spring. You can only go so far because each time you are changing the grain structure of the steel that made it a spring. I'm not going to write a tutorial on spring making or intricacies of the 1911 trigger job. I'm just helping a fellow on this site restore function to his weapon..
Shep

 

[Welderboy11972]

Back to the op since you are the only one who has been in it I think
its safe to say it doesn't have tuned up trigger sear or tuned sear spring bend. So it's possible you have fatigued the original spring or slightly bent it out of position. Just buy a new one and it should be good to go. It can go back in without doing anything to it. Manipulating the sear spring arm should only be done by a competent gunsmith.
Shep

The parts I used where ( in 2015) top of the line. At the time, I did alot of research and reading on 1911 manufacturers and builders. I wanted the best parts I could get. The ones I choose were all drop in parts. I didn't have to do any stoning on the hammer, sear, trigger, disconnecter. With quality, top of the line parts, I shouldn't have to do any work to them.

If my memory is right, I did not replace the main spring. It maybe possible it has broke or just simply lost its "spring". I have put 10,000+ rounds though it.
Is there a round count that some parts should be replaced?

 

[KyCarl]

Everyone seems to forget IF someone else had God Forbid been hurt or Worse the
OP would now be hurt but also trying to defend his home his retirement Heck
Everything he has worked for! The manufacture will claim He altered the pistol
and will get out of it..The other side will claim He made a illegal .45 sub machine gun
and did this! ALL to save a few bucks? What does a good attorney charge an hour
350-400? Adds up fast! It's just not worth it to me!

 

[redleg1013]

This bears repeating due to its importance.

The ones I choose were all drop in parts. I didn't have to do any stoning on the hammer, sear, trigger, disconnecter. With quality, top of the line parts, I shouldn't have to do any work to them.

This is patently false, and dangerously naive.

ALL internal parts are fitted, or at least addressed and some need to be massaged more than others. Why? Because tolerance stacking is a thing. We are talking about a firearm capable of wreaking havok if not in proper working order, as you discovered.

 

[25WSM]

Red leg is absolutely right. The only parts I know of that are drop in are grip bushings and screws. The various pins and coil springs. Some barrels and front barrel bushings. Do have to watch the links. Sights and mag well. Parts to need fitting are very import ones. Like the safety, sear. Disconnect and hammer. This is an example list and not every part of the pistol. Most bags you get these in say fitting required. And for good reason. A 1911 is a simple and reliable pistol and when it in the form of the box stock version easy to work on at home. However when these are super tuned every part needs to be just right. When I did drug bust in the coastguard in the 80s we had our 1911s replaced with the Beretta. We had them one month on our boat. Saltwater next to steel next to aluminum don't work well on s pistol. We got our 1911s back. In a bag. All we did was divide the parts out into groups and put them back together. They functioned flawlessly. Our guns had one tolerance LOOSE
Yes this could have been a huge disaster and I'm sure it is to the op and I am glad he brought this to us. Most guys would have been to embarrassed to tell us. Hope everything is going to be good. I'm on day 20 in the hospital and just had my surgery yesterday. Things are looking better for me right now.
Shep

 

[Welderboy11972]

25WSM, You have been a great deal of help with your posts. I've never meet you, but you taking the time to get on this forum to help a fellow member, while you're having medical issues yourself. That sir, deserves a lot of respect. I Thank You. Hope you have a speedy recovery and God Bless you in everything in your life.

 

[25WSM]

I thank this site for keeping me busy during these long boring days.
Shep

 

[shortgrass]

Short grass. You are correct about a worn leaf spring. But you are not describing what I am talking about. I've been smithing for 30 yrs building custom rifles and I have done multiple 1911 builds and 100s of 1911 triggers jobs. I don't consider myself an expert on 1911s because of this. During a quality 1911 trigger job many things happen. No time for details. But one step involves the sear spring and it's manipulation. Yes it is bent. And yes it STAYS bent. For yrs. I also told the op to buy a new spring. Post 16 I told him to take it to a smith. I also said I knew what the problem was but would rather him take it to a smith. After I thought about it more I said later just replace the spring. It will restore function to his pistol but not be a tuned quality trigger job spring. So your here at post 46 saying the same thing I just said on post 45. Except we get a vague lesson on leaf springs. You obviously only know little about. A leaf spring can be bent past it's natural flex point so many times and it will hold this new bend point for the life of the spring. You can only go so far because each time you are changing the grain structure of the steel that made it a spring. I'm not going to write a tutorial on spring making or intricacies of the 1911 trigger job. I'm just helping a fellow on this site restore function to his weapon..
Shep

I am glad you are such an eggspert, 25WSM. But, as far as I am concerned you can stick it in your ear! I am allowed to post here, just as everyone else is. Have good day!!!

 

[25WSM]

Well shortgrsss I'm glad you are still adding much valued new info to this thread. Nobody told you not to post. Nobody said you were wrong. In fact I said you were correct about the spring. Just not on how it is bent on the 1911. And yes I do consider myself an expert in the rifle aspect of gunsmithing. And I did say that I DONT consider myself an expert on the 1911. You see thats what makes me smart. I know what I am and am not an expert on. Do basically you bring nothing to the table but this smart elilic lie filled post. Do you know what how people on here see you now. I need not say another word.
Shep

 

[codyadams]

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