New to the 300 win, reload or factory to start?

[Canhunter35]

I've been shooting the 212gr ELD-X for over a year now and have had great success using it with H1000. I settled on 77gr as it would get me above 3000 fps in a 30" barrel with my suppressor on.

I will admit I have gotten better performance with the ELDs than the Bergers, I probably shot at least 700 of the 215s but could not seem to get them any better than 0.5 to 0.75 MOA and I went from 74 up to 80+gr chasing a tighter node. The ELDs on the other hand routinely shoot well below 0.5 with the best around 0.2 MOA.

Additionally I started with Norma brass which was all that was availible at the time. It has worked well but I am switching over to Hornady when it dies as I only gained one or two more firings (5 or 6 total) before the necks split. At $1.03 a case for the Norma vs $0.57 a case for the Hornady it simply works better for me to just get the Hornady brass.

Anneal the necks and they won't split, ur primer pockets will loosen up before they do

 

[FEENIX]

I guess I'm more curious as to what brand is going to yield the best brass for reloading relative to the cost?

I see that you are looking for xfired brass, this is just me but your new rifle deserves a new new/virgin brass, whichever you end up choosing. We all have varying personal experiences and you'll have to sort them out yourself. There is no substitute for personal/hands on experience. As far as brass relative to cost, I have very good luck with Winchester brass, once they are sorted/culled for uniformity (weight, length, concentricity, etc.), they are not too bad. Others will pay for a premium priced brass to alleviate the sorting process. The actual loading, load development varies from basic to ultra meticulous process to gain as much accuracy as possible. Many choices to consider in the learning process ... take your time and enjoy it.

 

[Satchamo]

I see that you are looking for xfired brass, this is just me but your new rifle deserves a new new/virgin brass, whichever you end up choosing. We all have varying personal experiences and you'll have to sort them out yourself. There is no substitute for personal/hands on experience. As far as brass relative to cost, I have very good luck with Winchester brass, once they are sorted/culled for uniformity (weight, length, concentricity, etc.), they are not too bad. Others will pay for a premium priced brass to alleviate the sorting process. The actual loading, load development varies from basic to ultra meticulous process to gain as much accuracy as possible. Many choices to consider in the learning process ... take your time and enjoy it.

I think for now I'm going to just pick up a few boxes of federal 180s and shoot them then start with that brass. I've had good luck with their brass in the past... And I can get it for about $20 a box at academy.

From there I'll pick up some H1000 and the Hornady eld-x 212s and try my hand at some load development. Am I going to be best served to buy the Hornady reloading manual for starting load data?

 

[Canhunter35]

I think for now I'm going to just pick up a few boxes of federal 180s and shoot them then start with that brass. I've had good luck with their brass in the past... And I can get it for about $20 a box at academy.

From there I'll pick up some H1000 and the Hornady eld-x 212s and try my hand at some load development. Am I going to be best served to buy the Hornady reloading manual for starting load data?

Federal brass is decent, especially if you buy loaded ammo from the same lot. I would try the hornady 200gr eldx precision hunter ammo.
I'd just use noslers online data for their 210s and watch for pressure signs

 

[CMP70306]

I would start around 74gr and work up towards 77gr as many people seem to have good luck in the 76 to 77gr range

 

[trhall]

I've been shooting the 212gr ELD-X for over a year now and have had great success using it with H1000. I settled on 77gr as it would get me above 3000 fps in a 30" barrel with my suppressor on.

I will admit I have gotten better performance with the ELDs than the Bergers, I probably shot at least 700 of the 215s but could not seem to get them any better than 0.5 to 0.75 MOA and I went from 74 up to 80+gr chasing a tighter node. The ELDs on the other hand routinely shoot well below 0.5 with the best around 0.2 MOA.

Additionally I started with Norma brass which was all that was availible at the time. It has worked well but I am switching over to Hornady when it dies as I only gained one or two more firings (5 or 6 total) before the necks split. At $1.03 a case for the Norma vs $0.57 a case for the Hornady it simply works better for me to just get the Hornady brass.

Once I started annealing every 3 firings I have not had a single neck split using both Win and Rem brass. I have some cases with 12 firings.

 

[trhall]

I guess I'm more curious as to what brand is going to yield the best brass for reloading relative to the cost?

I believe Winchester brass is the best bang for the buck. It's a little harder than Remington and seems to have a bit longer life.
Using the collet resizing die and annealing every 3 firings are 2 things I did that drastically improved the case life for my 2 300 winny's. Annealing eliminated the neck cracking as well as improved my SD due to more uniform neck tension and the collet die eliminated any case head separation due to thinning of brass/work hardening above the belt.

http://www.larrywillis.com/

 

[magtech83]

I use norma brass... Its what i bought when I worked up a load for 210 Vlds. I've been running 77.6gn of H1000 since I worked up my load. At 77.7-77.8 I begin to get pressure signs.

 

[Satchamo]

Thanks for all your direction here guys! Haven't been here long but everyones been super helpful! Not always that way on forums/communities!

 

[FEENIX]

I think for now I'm going to just pick up a few boxes of federal 180s and shoot them then start with that brass. I've had good luck with their brass in the past... And I can get it for about $20 a box at academy.

From there I'll pick up some H1000 and the Hornady eld-x 212s and try my hand at some load development. Am I going to be best served to buy the Hornady reloading manual for starting load data?

I did have very good experience with Federals as well but not as much as with Winchesters. I understand this is not off a .300 WM but posting it for what it is worth as it was the last factory ammo I used to break in a barrel. This is off all factory Savage 11F in .300 WSM using factory Winchester 150 SP ...

(100 yards)

(200 yards)

My handloads are .5-.75 MOA.

Good luck and happy safe hunting/shooting!

Ed

 

[DCAN]

Totally agree with MudRunner, on my magnums I love Nosler brass. I have had about 10 300 wins over the last few years as it is one of my favorite calibers. I think it is one of the easier magnums to find a good load with. I have always had great luck with H1000 and I primarily shoot 208 ELD-M's now. In every gun so far it has been about identical loads. Always been in the 76 gr arena going anywhere from 76 to 76.8. That typically gets me the 3K I am looking for in velocities with the longer barrel guns. Running 76.4 now in my 22' proof setup and getting 2960. the 212 and 215s will be around that arena also concerning powder charge. If you need any help shoot me a message and I will shoot you my cell. Be glad to help you anyway I can.

I'm just about to start loading for my new 300 Win. Been loading for about 45 years now, just never that round. Any other pointers for the 300 you would be willing to share?? Thanks, Doug

 

[jjmp]

Set your die to fl resize off your front shoulder & not the belt , this keeps head space correct ,& doesn't create excessive head space that leads to case failure.

 

[7stwnut]

I think for now I'm going to just pick up a few boxes of federal 180s and shoot them then start with that brass. I've had good luck with their brass in the past... And I can get it for about $20 a box at academy.

From there I'll pick up some H1000 and the Hornady eld-x 212s and try my hand at some load development. Am I going to be best served to buy the Hornady reloading manual for starting load data?

My LTR will shoot the Federal Blue Box 180 hot cores M.O.A. Nice for barrel break in.

 

[MudRunner2005]

I'm just about to start loading for my new 300 Win. Been loading for about 45 years now, just never that round. Any other pointers for the 300 you would be willing to share?? Thanks, Doug

Neck-size your brass once you've gotten them fire-formed to your chamber, and your cases will last longer, runout will be minimal, and your reloads will be as accurate as possible. Also, a good set of dies never hurts...I like Redding.