New Reloader question...

[nt7332]

As others have mentioned spend your time researching and if you can't find it then post a question on here many will chime in. Also I agree on the COAX if you can afford it. It is better to save and buy once than buy subpar and have to upgrade later. You will not go wrong with a rock chucker either, if you look at how long the rock chucker and COAX have been around that speaks volumes for their performacne and design. All of your reloading gear play together. If you dont have a good way to accurately measure powder you can have the best dies and press in the world and you are not going to get consistent performance. Also you can have the best lab grade scale in the world and if you have a crap press and cheap dies well again crap performance. You greatest investments will be your press and really good scale. Once you get those two you can start piecing together the rest. Do not waste your money on the kit! And also do your self a favor and get a chronograph when you first start this voyage in the reloading black hole!

 

[nt7332]

Had several RCBS presses. Now use the Forster co-ax. Forget the kit. Buy only what you need. Used equipment costs less and most reloading items do not wear out. Get the best scale you can afford, but stay away from electronic.

Just curious why stay away from electronic? I run a A&D FX120i for final charge with a dandy trickler and throw initial charge on a chargemaster lite. I can't see a beam scale being any more accurtate than that A&D Fx120i .02 resolution.

 

[Toolhand]

I bought a box "starter kit" when I began reloading and now use nothing out of that initial box. In my opinion you would be better getting either a MEC marksman press which is what I use or a coax press.
I also run the A&D fx 120i. I throw initial charge low with a Lyman digital then trickle charge to desired weight on the much more accurate A&D scale. I also would suggest getting a bench mounted priming tool such as the rcbs bench primer. I tend to have much better feel seating primers that way than with a handheld primer... I hated seating primers on a press and didn't do it long at all.

 

[Garou_22]

And also do your self a favor and get a chronograph when you first start this voyage in the reloading black hole!

Chronos are NOT all equal! Of all the equipment, this piece is the most research sensitive, in my opionion. But unless you're planning to shoot 1000+ regularly, it's also not critical. Especially if you have access to a range capable of 3-500yds - longer the better - since you can use witnessed adjusted drop from zero at further range to calculate MV. A chrono makes it easier and provides additional information like Standard Deviation; High, Low, Average and Mean velocities; some will indicate specific shots that measured abnormal characteristics (I.E. Öehler 35/35P). They also provide a starting point for MV which makes for correcting B.C. values easier to fine-tune dope tables. But if you're only shooting to 4-500 max, all of that info isn't really needed at all. And not having a chrono won't be a hindrance. If Long and extreme long range are your goal, however, then, yes, a GOOD (ie not cheap) chrono AND an ammometer are essential.

 

[Calvin45]

Chronos are NOT all equal! Of all the equipment, this piece is the most research sensitive, in my opionion. But unless you're planning to shoot 1000+ regularly, it's also not critical. Especially if you have access to a range capable of 3-500yds - longer the better - since you can use witnessed adjusted drop from zero at further range to calculate MV. A chrono makes it easier and provides additional information like Standard Deviation; High, Low, Average and Mean velocities; some will indicate specific shots that measured abnormal characteristics (I.E. Öehler 35/35P). They also provide a starting point for MV which makes for correcting B.C. values easier to fine-tune dope tables. But if you're only shooting to 4-500 max, all of that info isn't really needed at all. And not having a chrono won't be a hindrance. If Long and extreme long range are your goal, however, then, yes, a GOOD (ie not cheap) chrono AND an ammometer are essential.

I wouldn't trust drop, even out to 500 yards, to indicate accurate muzzle velocity at all. The bc of a projectile is so often off by a little or a lot, and additionally a difference of 200 FPS might only change the drop by 4 inches at 500 yards. Often, especially if new at this, we don't even get 4 inch groups at 500 yards. So it doesn't tell you much of anything.
Additionally there's the very real need to know if you're running things too hot. It is possible to have an overpressure load that does not give much indication by way of pressure signs like primer cratering or ejector marks or stiff bolt lift. But the chrono will let you know not to push further. There is no free lunch. If your 270 is outperforming established standard 7mm rem mag data then, regardless of signs or lack thereof, back off. If there are no obvious warning signs the ONLY way you'd know is a chronograph. Don't matter how far you're shooting.

 

[nt7332]

Chronos are NOT all equal! Of all the equipment, this piece is the most research sensitive, in my opionion. But unless you're planning to shoot 1000+ regularly, it's also not critical. Especially if you have access to a range capable of 3-500yds - longer the better - since you can use witnessed adjusted drop from zero at further range to calculate MV. A chrono makes it easier and provides additional information like Standard Deviation; High, Low, Average and Mean velocities; some will indicate specific shots that measured abnormal characteristics (I.E. Öehler 35/35P). They also provide a starting point for MV which makes for correcting B.C. values easier to fine-tune dope tables. But if you're only shooting to 4-500 max, all of that info isn't really needed at all. And not having a chrono won't be a hindrance. If Long and extreme long range are your goal, however, then, yes, a GOOD (ie not cheap) chrono AND an ammometer are essential.

I will have to respectfully disagree. IMHO when reloading a chrono is an absolute necessity. Groups can tell you a little bit about a load but a chrono can tell you a whole lot more about its consistenecy. I will take a 1/2 moa load with a 1-2 SD over a 1/4 moa group with a 10 SD all day. My reloading process is no different for a 1K bench gun or a 300 yd deer rifle.

 

[shawn mcjunkin]

I am also just starting the reloading venture due to decreased options here in CA (apparently they don't like hunting, everything's difficult here) I also have looked at the kits, but came to the choice I don't want to upgrade later. The cost becomes the issue. I have done a lot of reading and hours upon hours of watching reviews with tons of different opinions of what is needed, and what's good. There are a few people that put their lists out there of what they use and Why. I have also selected items to buy based off good loading discussions here on previous forum questions and the reviews that matched. I will be getting items I can afford as I go. So far started with some manuals, Sinclair bump and bullet comparators, and the rcbs automatic priming tool with needed shell holders. I would like the forester coax( but can't afford it), but will probably end up with MEC marksman ( I can buy that and a scale for the cost of the coax) It seems it will be a costly set up process none the less, but I'll get what I want out of it. For those experienced loafers it is always good to put out a reloaded recommended starter list and to recommend good products and why when you find them. A reloaders tip corner I guess.

 

[John Klingenberg]

RCBS all the way. I have or have had presses by everyone. My Rock Chuck Bullet Swage has been with me now for nearly 30 years. I still do most of my loading on it. I bought an electronic powder measure but i dont like it. I actually can run a beam scale faster than it can run. It's also more accurate and not as sensitive to breezes. The priming system on the press is fine and you can easily get a feel for it. I shoot a lot, several thousand rounds a year. The RCBS can load excellent and super accurate ammo. If you get your components set up in an orderly manner and a lyman 55 powder throw you can turn out some ammo in a hurry.

 

[nt7332]

Read through this thread there is some very good pointers on good equipment. My buddy started these little while back.
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/best-piece-of-reloading-of-equipment-u-have.221538/
And this one
https://www.longrangehunting.com/th...e-them-reloading-benches.221444/#post-1648545

 

[shawn mcjunkin]

Side note off topic be prepared the last 4 items I got online shipped by ups having anything to do with gun supplier/ reloading equipment the boxes have been crushed

 

[65WSM]

I would suggest you follow "The Ultimate Reloader" Gavin on You Tube.
Like Gavin, I prefer the Forster Press and Adam MacDonald's "auto trickler" with the AND scale. I am a retired lab scientist and have several "lab" scales (from a price point in the thousands) in boxes in the basement. I also use the K&M Arbor press with the neck tension gauge with Wilson dies. The ultimate seating die is a Wilson die blank reamed at the same time as your new barrel with the chambering reamer. Wilson VLD seating stems are more likely to fit your expensive long range bullets than threaded dies. Avoid cheaply made price point threaded die sets with standard full length size dies and standard (not made for VLD bullet) seaters. These are a waste of money. You are seeking to make better than good ammunition. You need size dies with bushings and VLD stem chamber type seaters.

 

[skipglo]

I have the press in question and also the Chargemaste Light but did use the 505 triple beam balance for years. I definitely prefer the RCBS hand priming tool over the apparatus you put on the press. It just gives me a better feel for what's going on with my primer pockets. I like having the triple beam balance around too so I can QC the Chargemaster once in a while.

Good response. I also check about every 20 loads using my beam balance....never hurts

 

[YZ-80]

Good response. I also check about every 20 loads using my beam balance....never hurts

Thanks. What I've found is that the Chargmaster light throws charges "a little light". Probably a few hundredths of a grain but it does so consistently so it's really not an issue for me. I did call RCBS and spoke to one of their engineers, a competent young lady who told me the discrepancy could be due to static that accumulates on the area around the scale patten. This can be remedied by gently wiping the area around the patten with bounce dryer sheets. Who knew?

 

[md66948]

I am very happy with my MEC. I use a Redding BR3 and a RCBS Table Top Priming Machine.