Newbie reloader question

Buy a Hornady Bullet Comparator set and find the distance on the TTSX bullet touching lands if possible then set it back following Barnes' loading instructions. Like the others mention, no crimp is needed if neck tension is right.
 
Also it might be worth while ,after checking all your measurements on the first round you seat the bullet in, test it in your rifle ,put it in the magazine then chamber it , before you make a bunch .
When you test your load in your rifle make sure you have the barrel pointed in a safe direction away from other people.
 
I always make up a dummy round on all my rifles- I only load 150 gr in my 300 WBY and some have more free bore than others. Check with a dummy round , like to stay off the lands and groves ( too much psi ) may want to have the throat opened up ???? possible..I like just a little jump, but then again each toy is a bit different !!! Besides thats called a DONUT . from seating a bullet too far into the case neck, I never seat the full diameter at the base of the bullet into or past the neck/shoulder. Where the constriction portion of a case the donut occurs if not loaded properly. All rounds exhibit degrees of constriction at the shoulder junction don't seat your bullets so far in.
 
I use the TTSX in my .243 without crimping and they shoot very well. Assuming you are using them for hunting (I've never heard of any one using them for competition), I think you'll be OK with no crimp if you have proper neck tension.
In thousands and thousands of successful reloads I have NEVER crimped. Hornady says not needed unless tube magazine is used
 
I'm reloading 300 wby brass with barnes 180grttsx bt bullets. When I seat the bullet to the proper overall length, a rib of the bullet sticks out and doesn't look right? I got the data for overall length from the lee reloading die book, and also measured several factory rounds which all run at 3.560 in. To fully seat the bullet till nothing show I would have to go another .0545 in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please see pics attached
I had some of the same thoughts when first trying out the Barnes TSX. Simply decided to continue the way I always have, had one rib sticking out at the proper seating depth, did a light crimp and all was well, shot less than MOA, actually well less than MOA.
 
I think that Weatherby chamberings all have a big jump from the ogive to the lands. It allows for just a little more advertised velocity. I have chambered several barrels in Weatherby chamberings and have always had reamer made to not cut the freebore. Powder charge needs adjusted when loading with just 5 thousands off lands because when close to the lands the pressure increases. I built a 338-378 and chambered a 2" diameter 30" long barrel. Sent a dummy round to reamer manufacturer so that he would make reamer with no freebore. Got the reamer and chambered the barrel and apparently the reamer maker didnt look at my dummy rounds. Big 1/4" jump to the rifling. He made the reamer with standard Weatherby throat.. I ordered the second $400 barrel, because I didnt want to sacrifice length, and sent reamer back to reamer maker, and chambered second barrel, and same thing, the reamer had not been changed, and "ruined" another barrel. So ordered a third barrel and got a different brand reamer to chamber this time. I have been warned not to use factory Weatherby ammo in these no freebore Weatherby chamberings, due to extreme pressure spike with not having a split second to peak before bullet hits the rifling. Accuracy seems to suffer with that big jump. Measure and see, but probably you can you seat bullet out farther than manuals say, just so cartridge will fit in magazine. That is if you adjust powder load for a little more pressure.
 
According Barnes there bullets should be shoot no closer than .050" from the lands. Then seated deeper in increments of .025" or .050" untill accuracy is acheived. They can be shot a full 1/4" from the lands .250" and accuacy can be found. I shoot mine .058" off the lands and get one hole groups. I think I may have almost 2 groves sticking out.
 
I think that Weatherby chamberings all have a big jump from the ogive to the lands. It allows for just a little more advertised velocity. I have chambered several barrels in Weatherby chamberings and have always had reamer made to not cut the freebore. Powder charge needs adjusted when loading with just 5 thousands off lands because when close to the lands the pressure increases. I built a 338-378 and chambered a 2" diameter 30" long barrel. Sent a dummy round to reamer manufacturer so that he would make reamer with no freebore. Got the reamer and chambered the barrel and apparently the reamer maker didnt look at my dummy rounds. Big 1/4" jump to the rifling. He made the reamer with standard Weatherby throat.. I ordered the second $400 barrel, because I didnt want to sacrifice length, and sent reamer back to reamer maker, and chambered second barrel, and same thing, the reamer had not been changed, and "ruined" another barrel. So ordered a third barrel and got a different brand reamer to chamber this time. I have been warned not to use factory Weatherby ammo in these no freebore Weatherby chamberings, due to extreme pressure spike with not having a split second to peak before bullet hits the rifling. Accuracy seems to suffer with that big jump. Measure and see, but probably you can you seat bullet out farther than manuals say, just so cartridge will fit in magazine. That is if you adjust powder load for a little more pressure.
Roy Weatherby designed his cartridges and chambers to have a long ride sloping into the lands instead of just slamming the bullet into them which made for quite a bit longer freebore than other manufacturers and allowed those bullets to seat properly without pressure spikes producing very high velocities and greater accuracy.

I am not sure what they are doing today so your caution might be a very valid one if the reamers are not truly in spec with the original Weatherby specifications.
 
It's in thousandth s not inches! About .0020 is a good starting point but is different for most bullet styles. You will only find this necessary to not hit the lands...or more necessary when you use the longer heavier bullets. Look at the COAL in your books...and watch.

According Barnes there bullets should be shoot no closer than .050" from the lands. Then seated deeper in increments of .025" or .050" untill accuracy is acheived. They can be shot a full 1/4" from the lands .250" and accuacy can be found. I shoot mine .058" off the lands and get one hole groups. I think I may have almost 2 groves sticking out.
Wow. 2 groves sticking out really must have looked interesting!! I'll stick with the coal set by barnes and go from there. I'm Curious as a hunter does crud or dirt get stuck in the groves where you periodically cleaning your bullets?
 
300 WBY is not designed for closed to the lands, and I doubt you could get there
You Sir are correct! @Amudgett, FYSA.

Weatherby free bore.JPG


I do not have a .300 WBTY but I have an improved version of it based on 8MM RM cartridge. I can shoot factory .300 WBTY and .300 Jarrett factory ammo.

.300 WBTY vs .30 LARA.jpg


Good luck!
 
Wow. 2 groves sticking out really must have looked interesting!! I'll stick with the coal set by barnes and go from there. I'm Curious as a hunter does crud or dirt get stuck in the groves where you periodically cleaning your bullets?
I shoot drive band bullets regularly and have never had a problem with "crud" getting into the grooves.

Of course, I tend to keep my ammo either in a box or in the magazine and chamber with the bolt closed so I doubt it'll ever be a problem.
 

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