You are fireforming anyway to start with. So what the difference? That with any rifle that you shoot. New case need to be fireform. That can take 3 firing just get there.True. I wouldn't consider anything faster than 9 were I not tailoring to the ultra-long bullets over 130 grains. The entire boattail of these bullets will be below the neck/shoulder junction, as the short neck is just enough to grab the .25 cal bullet. I'm thinking of progressing with the .090" freebore .25 Creedmoor I have a reamer for. Doesn't have to be fancy. A 9 twist McGowen or Douglas XX barrel would be ideal, but 10 twist is acceptable if I can find one in stock faster.
I, too, had a .25-06 AI. I learned that I LOATHE fireforming brass! I also hate using double the powder, primers, and bullets as hard as they are to come by. I could get a good pre-fit from PVA for a 1:7 .25 Creedmoor, but I have no interest in launching ultra-heavy-for-caliber bullets from a Creedmoor case. Many guys love it, just doesn't tickle my fancy as much as ultra-high velocity capability.
I actually formed some 6.5mm Rem Mag brass from 7mm Rem Mag.I love the idea, but GOOD LUCK finding .350/6.5 Rem Mag brass OR ammo to tear down!
I have a short throated (.090") .25 Creed reamer from JGS I've never used. Might be time. It's designed for use with "normal" 1"10 twist barrels and bullets up to 110 grains perhaps. 90gr Hammers or Sierra HPs would be great.
Mike, I am getting great accuracy on the first firing after the Bullseye/cream of wheat. Best accuracy is usually within 2.0g of the max load for that barrel/throat.You are fireforming anyway to start with. So what the difference? That with any rifle that you shoot. New case need to be fireform. That can take 3 firing just get there.
I have read a lot about setting up cases with faster powders and cream of wheat of or others. It's my understanding is you need a different setup to do that. I don't think I would use it in my rifle to start with. I am having another action set for that fireforming of two different cases presently. Changing the barrels out for whatever I need. To either the cream of wheat or just use plain loads for that.Mike, I am getting great accuracy on the first firing after the Bullseye/cream of wheat. Best accuracy is usually within 2.0g of the max load for that barrel/throat.
That could be a little flashy.I've been doing it for more years than I like to remember. Bullseye and Unique work fine. It's a little smelly in a confined space. I top with candle wax (No, NOT a LIT candle.)
That, Sir, is the nicest piece of wood I have ever seen on a #1 !! I have had several over the years and none were anywhere near that scenic. Beautiful!!You will love the Souper, best of the ones you listed, IMHO. Easy to form brass and performs very well.
I have been looking for a No.1 to build a Souper on for awhile. But I just scored a Ruger No1 with custom barrel chambered in 25 Krag AI. Just picked up Monday, so first info to report. But reserch has me smiling. Its not going to be a Hot Rod like the Wby, but should run just short of a 25/06.
I do it at Night from a mountain top.That could be a little flashy.
Did you just confess to building a giant suppressor? I love it! I shot with an early LR guy in Utah. He built a range in the rafters of his manufacturing company. He built his suppressor out of a big septic tank lined with big cone acoustical foam. Worked great with the 30-378's we were shooting. We shot up there during the day while the lines were running. Nobody gave it a second thought.I bought a 55-gallon drum and drilled a 3/4" hole in the bottom. Next, I put a rolled-up egg foam mattress in the 55-gallon drum. I turn the can upside down, stick the muzzle in the hole in the bottom, and fire form right in my garage. I live out in the country where it is legal to shoot in my yard. It is just convenient FFing right in the garage at night, during the Winter.
Life is easier to cool the barrel at 25-round intervals and run a brush through the barrel a couple of times at the 25-round interval also.