New Member -- Advice/Experience Wanted!

[Brydawg512]

No, just use the same marked power setting if you are going to use the scale on the reticle.

So, if I zero at 4x, but go up to 10x for a shot, I can still take the shot? If so, how do I account for the magnification difference? Also, what is the "dope"? Sorry for so many questions... getting a bit confused now

 

[Brydawg512]

You'll always be more accurate calculating the dope for each shot. Try downloading shooter or one of the other apps for your phone and practice with it.

Drop cards are good for a quick, rough calculation, that's about it. To be more accurate you should make up one for the elevation and average temp/humidity conditions where you plan to be hunting.

You'll still have to estimate your wind adjustment but the drop card will get you close on the elevation adjustment.

Ok, that makes sense. Thank you much.

 

[Brydawg512]

Capt RB. I am trying hard to understand what you mean by... "The zero for 4x power is the 0 on the turret. The offset for shooting 14x is 1 moa up and 1/2 moa left" Please know that I am not looking for an argument, i just really do not know what you are referring to by this? I do understand that the value of the tick marks in the reticle changes at different power serrtings on a sfp...is that what you are referring to? Also, admittedly, I have never used a front focal plane scope. To the OP, this has been a fun thread to watch, and your asking good questions and getting alot of great advice. Better yet, you are listening and have come along way from where you started already!

Yes, thank you very much! I have really appreciated everyones help. I definitely have started to grasp a basic understanding of some things. The only things I am still unclear on (even though some have been addressed...) are:

How do you estimate where to aim based on wind speed?
Do the values of the tick marks change when magnification is increased -- how can you recalibrate for a shot if you are zeroed at 4x but are going to take a shot at 10x, for example?
Is determining the number of clicks in MRAD on the turrets to adjust for a further shot as simple as creating drop charts including BC, muzzle velocity, and basic environmental conditions and then adjusting to those # of clicks?

Other than that, I think I have a decent understanding thus far. Also, on a Vortex PST (like I most likely will be purchasing) how much adjustment is per click? Also each click is a mil, mrad, etc? Thank you!

 

[WildRose]

Capt RB. I am trying hard to understand what you mean by... "The zero for 4x power is the 0 on the turret. The offset for shooting 14x is 1 moa up and 1/2 moa left" Please know that I am not looking for an argument, i just really do not know what you are referring to by this? I do understand that the value of the distance between the tick marks in the reticle changes at different power settings on a sfp...is that what you are referring to? Also, admittedly, I have never used a front focal plane scope. To the OP, this has been a fun thread to watch, and your asking good questions and getting alot of great advice. Better yet, you are listening and have come along way from where you started already!

FFP scopes have a reticle that changes size as you adjust the power setting so the MOA/MIL marks remain constantly correct for any power.

SFP scopes have a reticle that remains the same size through all power settings.

Here's a video on FFP.

 

[WildRose]

You could save a fair bit of money and still get a very good scope buying something like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leupold-VX...xbz10n:sc:USPSPriority!76380!US!-1:rk:10:pf:0

I have several older VX3 Tactical 4.5-14x50's and they have all been very sold performers for me.

 

[WildRose]

The VX3I is also a very solid scope right in your price range even new.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leupold-17...9a8NuA:sc:USPSPriority!76380!US!-1:rk:14:pf:0

 

[Capt RB]

Capt RB. I am trying hard to understand what you mean by... "The zero for 4x power is the 0 on the turret. The offset for shooting 14x is 1 moa up and 1/2 moa left" Please know that I am not looking for an argument, i just really do not know what you are referring to by this?
Because the magnifier is in front of the reticle this happens in all sfp scopes. If you take a magnifing glass and move it in and out you can change the magnification. In a scope you do this by twisting the mag ring. This turns the glass changing the path the light is bent in the occular system. This changes the point of impact. Remember that a .001 change in point of aim moves your impact 1/4moa at 100 yds.
I do understand that the value of the distance between the tick marks in the reticle changes at different power settings on a sfp...is that what you are referring to?
No
Also, admittedly, I have never used a front focal plane scope. To the OP, this has been a fun thread to watch, and your asking good questions and getting alot of great advice. Better yet, you are listening and have come along way from where you started already!

Hope this clears this up. I'd highly recommend a FFP to a new shooter. I feel this is the best way to start at distance shooting. You don't have to remember offsets or different holds for different powers when you get mirage and need to turn down the power. I started shooting a fixed power for long distance. To me it is still the best way for a new shooter. They think they need the versatility I don't see it until you have a comprehensive understanding of wind mirage and ballistics. A 6 or 10x will shoot as far as needed with average eyesight. I shoot to 700yds on 4x every trip. You give up seeing trace in less than optimum conditions however you get better on target concentration imho.

 

[xsn10s]

A 6 or 10x will shoot as far as needed with average eyesight. I shoot to 700yds on 4x every trip. You give up seeing trace in less than optimum conditions however you get better on target concentration imho.

This is one of the reasons that I posted the OP could get away with a 2.5-8x, 3x9x, 2.5-10x, or something up to 14x. I use the lower power when walking the woods or getting to a spot. You never know what you might come across. Above 10X you get into mirage issues and scopes can get darker unless you go to larger bell objectives. I've shot to 1200 yards using 10x, heck I shot steel at 450 yards to 700 yards with a fixed 2.5X. For hunting I cannot stress brightness in lowlight conditions and clarity as my main criteria. Magnification is nice but secondary to brightness, clarity, and accurate color.

 

[xsn10s]

I have several older VX3 Tactical 4.5-14x50's and they have all been very sold performers for me.

I've had one of the VariXIII LR Tactical 4.5-14x50 since the early 90's on my PSS 308 win. I'd say that would be the baseline of scopes. I felt that the Mk4 3.5x10 was brighter and more clear. They can be bought for 650-750 used pretty easily. Sometimes much cheaper.

 

[xsn10s]

Here's another video for FFP vs SFP for hunting. I use SFP for hunting but have been wanting to try FFP.

 

[xsn10s]

For LR target, duty, or competition I might choose FFP. But for hunting I have SFP. As for changes in POA/POI (point of aim/ point of impact) in SFP scopes through out the magnification range I just set my zero at the highest magnification range on hunting scopes and even my LR scopes. That way when I shoot to distance which will mainly be on the highest power my POA/POI will be on. Low mag range is for close up (100 yards or less) so if there is a change it won't be much.

 

[xsn10s]

What ever way you choose, FFP/SFP, lower mag or higher mag just try to pick something of quality construction and glass. You may decide later that you want a different scope, but if you pick a higher quality scope you'll be able to find another use for it. Good luck and have fun!

 

[Capt RB]

I've had one of the VariXIII LR Tactical since the early 90's on my PSS 308 win. I'd say that would be the baseline of scopes. I felt that the Mk4 3.5x10 was brighter and more clear. They can be bought for 650-750 used pretty easily. Sometimes much cheaper.

This is the issue with LEO. They are at the top of the price range in the class. The glass is good but the mechanicals are not on par with the same price point. I had them only when I was young. I paid alot of money for me at the time for a fixed 10 mildot with M3 turrets. That scope had a canted reticle. They fixed it but the turrets always had lash. 20 years ago. I do load work up for a customer due to him having parkinsons disease. He has a 7-42 vx6. Great glass but the turrets are horrible. Mushy they need a shot or 2 to settle. You cannot have that for any kind of turret based correction situation. I've shot at least 2 dozen leo's where if you do not go past your correction and come back your not where you want to be in the turret. Supposedly they have this resolved in the MKV. At what they want for money f them. I'd take any number of scopes over them. If I wanted lightweight Ziess. If I want bomb proof Nightforce. I have a Vortex pst gen 1 because it was good enough for the task at a great price. Zero stop great reticle turrets have been spot on in both a box test and a 72" tall target. The clicks have been right on for 10 mils. I have a S&B on a rifle if I had unlimited funds for shooting I'd have all S&B's. I know I will always have 1 and I upgrade that glass about every 6 years if something is drastically better. In looking at the latest upgrades they have made in glass my wife is going to need to make more money so I can get one. It is noticeably better than my PM II

 

[xsn10s]

I think I got mine when they first came out. VariXIII LR Tactical not VXIII LR Tactical. At that time I was training LEO's. I've run mine past adjustments and have had no issues. That's not to say I got lucky. I see you are coastal at times. We may have worked with some of the same people.