New custom...when to start load development?

I partially agree with you.....many quality barrel makers agree than top end barrels don't need "break in" or even to be cleaned that often. However, I was more referring to the velocity increase almost every barrel will experience. This particular barrel is a Proof CF. Many people report as much as 130-150fps increase with a new barrel
The barrel on my 30-28 did this, in the beginning I couldnt get it to go any faster than right at 3000fps no matter what powder and how much then after 75 rounds it just took off with same charges. I was about ready to pull it thought I had a "dog"
Even though I had shot 3 of the same exact twist and barrels before.
Go figure goes to show each barrel is different, it's the first one I've ever had do this all my other barrels have been 30-70 fps
From several different manufacturers.
 
Your not breaking in the barrel per say. Your fire lapping the throat. I shoot a couple 1 round and clean then maybe 2 rounds a couple times depending on the blue I see.
I see a noticeable difference after as early as 5 rounds to as much as 15 depends on how rough the throat is.
Let the barrel tell you.

Agreed! I think this is why Tubbs manufactured >>> http://www.davidtubb.com/final-finish-bullet-kits
 
My new 300PRC from Owens Armory should be done in the next two months...so when you guys get a new rifle, when do you begin load workup? Especially considering velocity increases during first 70-120 rounds of a new barrel....would load testing (ladder test, OCW, seating depth) be of any value during these first 100 rounds or so?

Or do you usually just shoot 100 rounds of factory ammo and then start working up custom loads???
For me, I start right away. IMO, there is no reason to shoot inaccurate rds through a custom barrel. Run a few test loads, however you develop a load. Shoot those through the speed up. Most likely your seat depth will not change, and maybe your powder charge will hold through the speed up and into once fired brass.
Some new barrels break in under 30 shots, they are lapped that well, far cry from even 6 or 7 yrs ago. Some barrels speed up in 3 shots at any rd count, some may take 50 to settle in, they are all different. I chrono every rd till it is over with. I can shoot steel all day long with a magneto hanging off a barrel. A LR would even be handier, I have one, gets little usage though.
Not sure how this turned into "Break in" thread.
 
Of about a dozen barrels in the last couple years, I've have yet to see one speed up. If they did it wasn't noticeable. These are all Bartlein and Proof steel and carbon.

I start immediately with load development.
 
I break in and then load development. Proof's break in is 3 clean, 3 clean , 5 clean; I have seen guys that can't get the scope dialed in with that many shots.. My break in is with a starting load I want to use and the bullets I hope to use with it.. As you shoot more if you notice your groups opening up then clean barrel very good and if that does not fix it then its time to start tweaking your load.
 
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Do any of you toss 8 ounces of 1000 grit abrasive in your new car's sump to help "break it in" ?

Do you really think it is more precise than your new barrel ?

Do you really think some guy selling barrels knows more than Gale Mcmillan ?

As an aside, my Tikka 6.5 CM that shoots bugholes would scare the poop outa you if you borescoped it.

Wish I owned a barrel company ---- obviously no end of customers for bad advice.
 
My new 300PRC from Owens Armory should be done in the next two months...so when you guys get a new rifle, when do you begin load workup? Especially considering velocity increases during first 70-120 rounds of a new barrel....would load testing (ladder test, OCW, seating depth) be of any value during these first 100 rounds or so?

Or do you usually just shoot 100 rounds of factory ammo and then start working up custom loads???

If you intend to mostly shoot factory ammo, then by all means, begin with the load you intend to shoot.

If you intend to mostly shoot hand loads, it would make sense to begin shooting the rifle with hand loads. If you have not done so already (and if you intend to hand load for your new rifle), I recommend starting out with the best brass available. ADG brass is what I would recommend.

From a starting load, you can use your first few rounds to get a rough zero with your scope. This is also a good time to do initial seating depth testing. Clean whenever you feel you need to during this process, paying attention to the level of copper fouling. By the time you finish rough seating depth testing, you will have enough fire formed brass to begin testing for powder charge. From there, you should be able to fine tune your load (and your zero), without having wasted a single round of barrel life or components.

I hope you will share your results with your new rifle. As I am sure you already know, the fellas at Owens Armory are great guys, who build excellent rifles! Good luck!!
 
Do any of you toss 8 ounces of 1000 grit abrasive in your new car's sump to help "break it in" ?

Do you really think it is more precise than your new barrel ?

Do you really think some guy selling barrels knows more than Gale Mcmillan ?

As an aside, my Tikka 6.5 CM that shoots bugholes would scare the poop outa you if you borescoped it.

Wish I owned a barrel company ---- obviously no end of customers for bad advice.
Where or when has the OP brought up the barrel break in you are referring too? He wants to know when to start developing his final load. That is it.
 
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