Need A Long Range 6.5 Caliber

The 6.5 Sherman is as good as it gets on that head size, stupid accuracy, fast and easy forming. If your search for elkaholic your find the man behind it.
Basic of it is you blow the taper and the shoulder out to 40 degrees on a 270 win case.
 
So what would the difference be between the Sherman and 6.5-06AI?

I thought I read some where the Sherman had a mag bolt face...
 
You would have a hard time beating a standard 260 or 6.5/06, maybe not the fastest but simple and reliable and brass forever no matter what!!
 
You would have a hard time beating a standard 260 or 6.5/06, maybe not the fastest but simple and reliable and brass forever no matter what!!

I agree...I keep coming back to "KISS"...while I did not originally think to include the 260 and I didn't think about making your own brass from 308 brass...but I do like a little more horsepower from the 6.5-06...last week I received a neck sizing die for it...so the 6.5-06 still leads...

Buy the gun parts and go at it...no new dies...no new brass...no new load data...no new powder...

I'm was really trying to see if there is such a thing as a caliber that is inheritly accurate...

I was reading this morning, this morning
http://precisionrifleblog.com/2017/07/21/advice-top-prs-shooters/

Their advice get a caliber and learn it...shoot it...shoot it a lot...don't waste time chasing the newest "best caliber"...

KISS
 
I really like the one I just finished for deer season. It shoots great even though I've not done any load work up yet. But it still shoot **** good out to 600 yards...

Folks are missing out not having the 6.5-06 and 264wm in their safe!
 
I'm a 30/06 dude threw and threw.

When the day comes, I see a 6.5-/06 A Square

Two things come to mind going this route.
Soft pet loads for National match shooting, then load hot for game Harvesting. Kinda like a win win.

142 gr'ers pet loads are 44.5gr's, 2635ft-per seconds (Classed as Most Accurate),,, the hot loads are 48.5gr's for 2810ft-per seconds. RL-powder will push the 142's to 2930.

Best of both worlds at ones choosing.
Low recoil for accuracy is key.
If I was to pick build a more consistent accurate load over that I'd brake all the rules to find a """fraction"'" slower burn rate powder to get powder case volume into the 92 to 94% bullet just touching charge with the least amount of neck tension with CCI BR primers.

Being that I'd do a custom barrel, I would ream out the throat a bit so the bullet can sit out further in the neck.

Good luck on your planning since your options are endless.

Western Canada Don
 
Don,
I was right along side of you cheering every step...until...you said

with the least amount of neck tension

Western Canada Don

From what I thought I was getting from a lot of the guys here is more neck tension is better!

I think that is what makes match ammo shoot so good in so many different rifles.

Hornady brass is not considered premium brass and their bullets are decent but not the best, but their match ammo gets great reviews! When I'm picking up brass at the range (long range targets) Hornady brass is what I'm finding...all kinds of different calibers.

So it's lead me to believe that neck tension is the game winner and more was better...

I would love to hear your thoughts on less neck tension!
 
uh oh ... the worm can is open now! ... :)

I've loaded/shot both with minimal neck tension and with 'more' ... I find 'consistent' neck tension to be the key. If you have a custom match chamber with a 'tight neck', you don't need much at all ... but in that case, you'll have probably had to turn your necks so they are both identical and matched to your chamber spec. If you're rifle has a 'standard' neck in the chamber, some tension is useful so that you get a more consistent buildup of pressure as the round is fired.

For ammo we hunt with and for rifles we load by feeding from a magazine, I am a proponent of medium + neck tension so that we don't 'jam' a round home with the bolt and accidentally seat the bullet deeper in the case which could cause very dangerous pressure spike.

My solution on my 260 AI is to use a 'light' neck tension from a Lee collet die but then I use a factory crimp die at the end to obtain the blend of tension and consistency that I perceive is 'better'.

Right or wrong - my ammo / rifle combo is working so I'm not likely to mess with it much. :)
 
Use of new build/rifle will be non competition steel and paper...fun gun...but could go into the woods if the right location pops up. The range I shoot at the most is 600 yards, but I have a friend that lives fairly close that has a spot we can shoot to nearly 1500 yards.

I know there will never be a 3K or 4K+ custom built rifle in my safe...but I would like to have a rifle that shoot well enough people think it cost that much! LOL

I know there is a ton of factors that go into making a choice on caliber so here is my caliber criteria;

Manageable recoil
Cost effective to shoot...brass biggest concern
Shoot more like a lazer than artillery shot

Now the rifle end...I'm going to use a LA Flat Back Savage receiver. They are very inexpensive and there plenty around the Houston area. Barrel, going to try to build this my self so the barrel will need to be a Savage pre-fit at least .850 at the muzzle, 1:8 twist and I prefer stainless. I'm in no real rush so I can save up to get the best bang for buck on the barrel. Most likely use a Choate stock because they are inside my price range. Scope will be SWFA, most likely fixed power...again staying within my budget. The bulk of the money will be in a barrel I think...

Back to the caliber...is there really, staying with the 6.5, a more accurate chambering? Is the 6.5x284 the most accurate 6.5 caliber out there? I want to utilize the LA so I'm not planning to do a 6.5 Creedmore even though I already have 200 pieces of brass...ok I might still but I really prefer something a little faster, but don't want it to be a powder hog like a 26 Nosler.

I like to keep the components on the reasonable side too...being cheap I tend to want to go with one of my existing calibers 6.5-06 or 264wm, but the dies really are a one time purchase. So I'm still open to something I don't already have.

Topics of discussion are caliber and who's Savage pre-fit barrel????

You'd be hard pressed to best a 6.5x55mm loaded to "modern pressures". I've been loading for various Mauser 98 pattern, Savage 110, and more recently Tikka actions to a max pressure of ~58K for many years. If you intend to reload, then the abundance of quality virgin and once-fired brass available for the 6.5x55, by virtue of the fact that it is the most popular target cartridge used in the Scandinavian countries, is equalled by no other cartridge. Go on gunbroker and do a search for once-fired Norma brass; I've been buying from this guy for years, and at $45/150 pieces it's a good price, and the quality has been excellent. If you prefer Lapua, then that cartridge is the most economical that they offer, again due to the amount of it that they produce to satisfy the demand in their own backyard. The sheer number of projectile choices now is better than ever, and you don't need much more than a Barnes 120-, 127-, or 130-grain (take your pick of TTSX, TSX, LRX) to drop any game in North America within a reasonable range (clearly, that is subjective and your call, and will vary by target). From a 24" barrel, I'm getting 3025 - 3035 fps with RL26. That's loaded to ~57K psi. No pressure signs. If you prefer to use a different hunting projectile, then you're in good shape because the throat on barrels chambered in 6.5x55mm tends to mirror the throat of the original military barrels, which were designed to shoot long bullets (in today's terms, these would be similar to the Hornady 160 RN and Norma 156 Oryx/Vulcan). I actually shoot the 160 RN as a subsonic to rid our farm of pests. If you want to toy with Sierra's new 150 or Hornady's 147, then you're in good shape.

Rate of twist that I prefer is 8 or faster. My favorite barrels have been the traditional twist of 7.874 (1/200mm). McGowen offers a 1:7, which is what I will be using on my next build (with a total length of 650mm).

I'll throw in another vote for Criterion barrels; I have used several of them (in 6-, 6.5-, and 7-mm cartridges), and they have been consistent and accurate. I have also had great results with McGowen, hence my going to them for the next build.

Barrel life is going to be 2,500 - 3,500 rounds if you're not abusing it. Don't feel that you need to crank out max MV in order to be effective. If you know that you're most likely to engage your target within some specific range of distance, and you know what the terminal velocity needs to be in order for the projectile to behave predictably and reliably, then you can custom load your ammo to provide what is needed, maybe plus a few percentage points. Shot like that, you will probably extend barrel life substantially. In my case, I simply ensure that the terminal velocity will be 2700 - 1700 fps when it hits the target (Barnes projectiles are all that I hunt with).
 
Don,

....From what I thought I was getting from a lot of the guys here is more neck tension is better!

Hornady brass is not considered premium brass and their bullets are decent but not the best, but their match ammo gets great reviews! When I'm picking up brass at the range (long range targets) Hornady brass is what I'm finding...all kinds of different calibers.

I would love to hear your thoughts on less neck tension!

I shoot PRS and know a lot of shooters that use the Hornady Match ammo, mostly the 6.5CM. Having also tried it myself, there is no question that the it groups very well at the short to moderate ranges, generally .5MOA or better in a good rifle. Have seen chronograph data for the factory ammo and the issue becomes velocity ES. I have seen this generally range from 15-40+FPS. I have seen shooters do fine with these spreads for most PRS competition and mid range hunting though more difficult at the longer ranges on smaller targets. Hard to tell whether it's powder charge, neck tension, or something else producing higher ES with the factory. I have loaded the 140 ELDM using H4350, Hornady Brass, CCI BR4 Match primers with light neck tension of .0015", and have produced .25MOA with ES under 10FPS......better ES then the factory load using the same bullets and brass, but a precise handloading process. I'm a proponent of light neck tension for tight ES whether in competition or hunting loads..
-Shown 200 yard groups Factory(top),and hand load at 2718, ES<10FPS.......both sub .25MOA. Shot with a Ruger Precision Rifle.

, ES<10FPS, su
4C1BAF05-F9DA-4345-87B5-79C2B7CA9444.jpeg
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I need to go back and read the article about the Houston Warehouse. IIRC he stated consistent neck tension was the key to .125 groups, but I also think...I think...he said more than normal...the industry standard was better. But it had to be consistent.

nkyshooter I had another guy here tell me that putting a crimp on the bullet was the key to success on one bullet he was shooting in a .25 caliber rifle.

My thoughts are the crimp increases neck tension...and improves ES

6.5x55...the mother of all 6.5...the main reason it's not in my list of possible chamberings is brass. I traded for some military brass and cant pop the primers out. The flash hole is too small for the decap pin...nearly broke my decap pin trying to punch out a primer. I finally got a couple out and found that to be the issue.
 
You'd be hard pressed to best a 6.5x55mm loaded to "modern pressures". I've been loading for various Mauser 98 pattern, Savage 110, and more recently Tikka actions to a max pressure of ~58K for many years. If you intend to reload, then the abundance of quality virgin and once-fired brass available for the 6.5x55, by virtue of the fact that it is the most popular target cartridge used in the Scandinavian countries, is equalled by no other cartridge......

The 6.5x55 I built is on a newer M48 Mauser it had the stamped trigger guard so I feel it can hand a little hotter loads that the early intermediate actions. I really need to get my hands on some better brass and see what it can do. I'm not even sure how long the throat is.

Thanks for all the info!
 
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