25WSM
Well-Known Member
30 bucks for a radial and 45 bucks for a tactical. Can't beat them.
Shep
Shep
Another comment/belief that testing has proven false is the use of angled ports. Angled ports can be useful if you are trying to control the the effected area around the shooter by directing the gas in a specific direction or a controlled fashion by combining the exhaust ports impingement distance. Angling them back to increase effectiveness only helps recoil when they are 45 degrees +but they make the shooter pay in sound and shock.
J E CUSTOM
I'll run my port design at 90 degrees and my common port angle on one of my next runs to test the next time I go test.
I hate to disagree but I've tested tons of brakes and a 90 degree port brake will not compete with a brake using ports angled back towards the shooter and they don't need to be 45 degrees to show a significant improvement. Unlike most I have multiple CNC machines and can make anything I want to try. The funny thing is most of the brakes with a 90 degree first port and angled ports after that are barely more effective then a brake with all of the ports 90 degrees. Another fallacy is that slab brakes are way more effective. They are a bit more effective with 90 degree ports. With a angled port brake there is very little difference between a slab and round brake when the size of the brake gets larger. It's pretty hard to see through a brake from the side with fairly steep ports angles. That means the gases exiting the muzzle cant even get to the outer edges of the port with any degree of forward push so making it wider does about zero for making it more effective.
Just for fun try shooting a garden hose down your arm and into your fingers bent at 90 degrees. Then try it again with your fingers bend back towards you. That is essentially what is happening in a muzzle brake. You'll be able to feel the difference as long as you don't have nerve damage in your arm/hand anyway.
Frederich Selous faced the same issue with his "Baby," an elephantine musket of 4-bore, throwing a 1/4lb round ball in front of whatever charge he dared to put behind it. His remedy for recoil was to allow some other fellow in his hunting party to "unload" the thing. And that's precisely the same way I feel about "muzzle brakes." Get a suppressor and a nice thick, soft trapshooter's sissy pad. The kind that goes 100-straight, not the thin leather covered hard pad. Work on the stock a bit too. The less it pounds your cheek and ears, the less will be your perception of recoil.If you really think you need a lot of smoke, noise, and recoil to make you think you're shooting a "man's" gun, then heaven help you, I'll be hunting a full drainage or two to the West and you're welcome to your entire territory.